Ok gurus, I'm between a rock and a Ford place currently.

I'll try and keep it as direct as possible to keep from the long windedness, so I apologize if it gets long and thank you for any help anyone offers.

Before I start, I've lurked around this forum for answers to any question I've had in the 3 years I've had the truck. And thus far the search bar has served me well, but this week I have had no avail. So I dont need people asking/telling me to search it. I have. Extensively. And now I'm here.

So heres the scoop.

The vehicle:

2007 F150 5.4 Lariat 140k
As stated, I've had it for 3 years and have put 20k on it.
The only issues/things needed replacing since I've had it:
Did the plugs about 125k dude to a terrible idle. Plug change went very well, went off without a hitch.
Since that just regular maintenance oil changes, etc. Intervals vary between 3k and 7k as I work on the road here and there for my job, with 11 days on and 3 days home. Repeat that for anywhere between a year and a half to 2 months, when there is no road work, im in the shop and the truck is my daily.

The only thing that has caused concern recently, was starting probably back in spring; at around 40mph -50mph when cruising I get a rough hesitation, almost like a misfire situation. But if I depress the gas pedal so the truck downshifts, i can accelerate out of it, no worries. And I boiled that down to coil packs, via this forum and a few videos. I had not replaced them, due to no time.

Anyway back to this week

This started last Saturday morning,after driving through a hell of a thunderstorm the night before due. Would of missed it but I had to go 20 minutes out of the way to get fuel, but anyways the truck ran fine through that mess, started up Saturday morning we went out for breakfast, then headed to the barn. It ran fine that whole time until I make it about 3/4 of the way there. Then suddenly had the cruise on and was hit with what felt an awful misfire but would surge back every now and then until I made it to the barn parking lot, and she died. K, went to try and start it up a few minutes later, and it would start but would run around 300-800 rpm,fluttered up and down and died, tried a few times until I decided she wasnt going to make us home due to finally getting to a crank/no start situation, with no CEL. So i get a trailer and get it home.

Heres what I've done since:

Still had a crank/no start after rolling it off the trailer and into my garage.


I came to the "conclusion" that it was the fuel pump by way of not hearing the hum in the tank, and semi half way confirmed it by hearing the relay click in the cab. Go to auto zone because they were the only one in town that had one, and was stuck with an airtec. During the surgery, I broke the quick connect clip on both ends of the fuel line that runs between the pump and the filter. Replaced with HP Fuel line and clamps until I have time to get an OEM replacement.
I dont remember if I listened for/heard a hum.

Still crank no start/ no codes

It's now Sunday

Ended up replacing the FPDM by way of this forums help. Think this has to be it after I take it off and see a silver dollar size hole on alum. So booyah replace it with what ever one Advanced had in stock. Had hum and appeared as it it was my saving grace.

Still crank, no start

Talked to the guy that hauled it home for me, he has an 05 5.4 f250 KR and has had alot of similar issues.

Tells me fuel filter, CPS, and Fuel rail pressure sensor.

Did all 3
No issues other then the driver side cam sensor was kind of a bitch to get out, and getting my DIY fuel hose back over the barb on the filter.

On top of doing the Coil Packs

Still crank no start

Other **** I've checked/done:

Tested voltage to fuel pump iso board in the cab fuse box. Have 12v to the pin and have continuity on both sides if the harness.
So to me that rules out the fuse panel box assy being fried(I'm sure I'm wrong)

Cleaned the MAF, because **** it why not.

Fuse/ relay are good for fuel pump.

Battery measured 12.7, also it's only a year old, so I dont think its shot.

I have searched up and down this forum and Google. And things or issues that others have had are close but not.

I hadn't checked/paid attention to the CEL. Realized on Wednesday it flashed 8 times and stayed steady when the key was in acc/position 3. Searched to find I/M drive cycle deal. Scanned to check readiness codes evap fuel and one other one were incomplete. Code that read was P1000 I think, the obdii code is for readiness test incomplete.

Side bar for all of this, I dont think it's a PATS issue, as no theft light or any of that nonsense .

So here I am today.

What I would like to test is the pcm but I'm unsure of how to to do that with out a wire color code or pinout, or where to start with it really. Reason being, with the hole in FPDM and driving through the apocalyptic type rain, could dead short or back feed to PCM and cook it with out throwing codes and a crank no start?

Also I'm aware that if you're battery was unplugged for a stint and it was when I did the pump (overnight) it can erase your drive cycles. Would that cause a crank no start

Second bit I thought/am hoping it's not is the phasers. I've read that the chain and phaser issues can cause the shutter i experienced between 40-50mph.
So could either one have fraged causing it to crank no start/possibly skip time?


I'm stumped.

I dont want to keep throwing what's left of my wallet at it, which had I realized not having my truck for a week isnt that huge of a deal, I would of just brought it to my mechanic or our Ford dealer.

I'm sorry for the dragging on of this. But I know on these forums it usually pays to have all the info up front.

I appreciate everyone that helps or experienced something similar.

 

You need to test for spark and injector pulsing. Parts stores should have noid lights and inline spark testers in their loaner tools, or you can buy them fairly cheaply.

 

Spark is on my agenda for tomorrow, I should of done it when I changed the coil packs. Wouldnt I start, but just run like dog **** if it was a spark issue? Or a least throw a dummy light?

Injectors were on my list after I do spark but that was just to inspect them and blow them out a bit. My thought was possibly bad gas from the sketch place I fueled up at on Friday. But I dont know how or where to do a spray test. I can hop on YouTube in the am and check er out..

 

P1000 is triggered when the battery is disconnected, codes are erased, or the PCM is not powering up. When my truck was intermittently cranking with no start and I was getting the P1000 code, I replaced the PCM relay and that fixed the problem. You may have other problems with the misfiring.

 

Check for Air, Spark, Fuel, Compression

Air: airfilter, air tube leaking, vacuum leak, throttle body operation, and cleanliness

Spark: Plug operation, Coil operation, Plug gap etc

Fuel: Fuel pressure, flow test, injector pulse

Compression test



Electrically we need to confirm Cam and Crank signals to the PCM. Tachometer move during cranking?
PCM power/ground inputs

Lets get to testing and see what we come up with

 

I did not check the relay...that should be in the kick plate fuse panel on the passenger side correct?

 

I will be checking spark and the plugs after I check the pcm relay, whenever I manage to get home today to actually work on it. Thank you fellas for responding

 

Don't know about the 07. My 02 had it in a fuse box under the hood in front of the brake booster.

 

There is a small fuse panel in front of the wheel well on the drivers side. It has 3 relays and a 5 am fuse I couldnt tell you what they are for tho..

 

Looks like there for the drl and ccw and cw 4x4 control relay..maybe lol

 

You need NOID LIGHTS and a SPARK TESTER as I linked above.