Well, my A/C has stopped working the other day at 55,500 miles. It was cutting on and off every 1-2 seconds, so I took it in. The mechanic says that there are metal shavings all through the system and that it will need a new compressor and accumulator (whatever that is). Cost was estimated to be $860. I was curious if this is a common problem or an isolated incident. At least it is January and I have time to save some money before it gets hot. I was hoping this truck would at least get me through college before a major problem. Bought it new in 97.

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1997 F-150 Reg Cab 4x2 4.2L 5 spd. 3.08
White/Silver
SnugTop Cab-hi w/ oversized windows & BedRug matching headliner
BedRug
Alpine CD / 200W RMS (50x4) Amp
JBL components up-front(50x2 W)
Rockford-Fosgate 8"sub(100 W)

 

That's very unusual, system leaks are #1 problem. Compressors chewing themselves to pieces happens but it is not common. $860 to fix, that's obscene considering the A/C option itself is $805.00. Find another repair shop to have it fixed, the parts including 134A refrigerant are about $300.00.

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99 F150 XLT Supercab Towing Package 5.4L Auto Two Tone Med Toreador Red/ Silver Power windows, locks, mirrors, driver's seat. Cruise, tilt wheel Alloys, Michelins, ARE topper Superchip / 2000 Chevy Silverado Ext cab 5.3, auto, Tow package, tilt, cruise, power windows,locks,side mirrors, alloy wheels.

 

I fully agree with Psycho, go get another opinion. Metal shavings sounds like BS to me. When the compressor cycles it is usually due to a leak which causes the pressure switch to cycle the compressor more often. Even if there is metal shavings the compressor is probably saveable. The accumulator is the "double gulp" sized can at the firewall on the passenger side. It is wrapped in foam and has tubes coming out and going in to it. It is a "filter" for a/c systems, removes water, etc.

Find a local a/c guy and let him fix it. Demand Ford parts if you are worried about that. I had a smimlar repair done on my old Dodge van for $300.

 

I had an 82 Datsun that had the a/c compressor lock up. The service guy told me the compresor is like a small engine with a piston or rotors like a Mazda engine and when they lock up metal parts can be scraped off. If they get into the lines the new compressor will collect the metal shavings.
They must clean the lines as well. That is why the new accumulator is needed. I remember paying about what they estimated for your truck.

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97 F-150, 2WD, Reg Cab,Flareside,Dk Toreador Red, Windsor4.6, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Bosch Plat +4s, 3.55 LS, EGR Bug Deflector, ******* Bed Cover, Bed Liner, XL Full Length Running Boards, Air Aid Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back, Superchips, TransGo Shift Kit, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs

 

Where do you live that you have to run the A/C in January anyway?

 

After consulting my FACTORY shop manual, I have some ideas. First, the outside temperature MUST be ABOVE 50 F before your A/C system is to work properly. Second, the ONLY way the mechanic would know your system was full of metal shavings would be to discharge it and remove the orifice tube for inspection. Third, if the A/C compressor is cycling as you describe, it is most likely the cycling switch, an A/C leak, or a wiring short in your controls. Testing with a multimeter will pinpoint it. If your refrigerant leaks to a point, the cycling switch will not let the clutch engage. If your refrigerant charge is borderline, your compressor will cycle on/off as the pressure changes. If the cycling switch is bad, it cannot determine if the pressure is high enough and will cause the condition you describe. A problem with the controls would be the least likely.

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'98 F150 XL Regular Cab, LWB, 4.2L V6, 5 Spd, 3.55 LS, Rhino Lining, factory heavy duty suspension, 3" Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter, Oxford White minus the two tone garbage. BIG TIME FoMoCo p/u fan, not some fair weather hammerhead.

 

Obscene or not, that price sounds average. Thank the EPA for that one. If you replace the compressor and accumulator yourself and have the system evacuated and charged by an A/C shop, you can cut that cost by about half. If your system has metal shavings in it, flushing adds considerable cost due to the high price of the flushing fluid itself. To be sure, pull the orifice tube (MAKE SURE YOUR SYSTEM IS AT ZERO PRESSURE FOR SAFETY'S SAKE) and check it. This acts as an inline filter and will pick up any debris in the system. Most REPUTABLE A/C shops won't recommend flushing if the filter is clean. If you have access to a vacuum pump, you can knock around $125 more off of your price, bringing you down to around $300 or so.

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'98 F150 XL Regular Cab, LWB, 4.2L V6, 5 Spd, 3.55 LS, Rhino Lining, factory heavy duty suspension, 3" Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter, Oxford White minus the two tone garbage. BIG TIME FoMoCo p/u fan, not some fair weather hammerhead.

 

It may only be a pressure/temperature switch on your compressor that's causing your compressor to cycle. The compressors I've seen that had metal shavings in their system were locked up. A new switch is only around $20 and to have it evacuated and charged shouldn't cost over $100.

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'98 F150 XL Regular Cab, LWB, 4.2L V6, 5 Spd, 3.55 LS, Rhino Lining, factory heavy duty suspension, 3" Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter, Oxford White minus the two tone garbage. BIG TIME FoMoCo p/u fan, not some fair weather hammerhead.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. Ford man, I'm not sure what all the dealership did. They charged a $40-50 diagnostic fee and said there were metal shavings. They said $600 parts, and the rest labor (including the diag. fee and flushing the system) I noticed it cycling on an unusually warm day about a week ago. When it cycled on, the compressor was not locked up but appeared to be putting an unusually high strain on the engine. Unless they are just trying to rip me off, I don't think it would be low on coolant since that is what they told me it probably was before they diagnosed it.

Ford man, this is way off topic but I noticed you were a power plant operator (cool job), and was wondering what the market is for power engineers in your area since I will be graduating in August. (you can email if you like)-- dcd@multipro.com

 

From what you are saying, it may very well be a bad compressor with debris in the system. I replaced the A/C system on my brother's car back in the spring (compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, cycling switch, and oil) and it set us back just under $300. The system was clean and didn't require flushing, so we took it to an A/C shop and had them evacuate and charge the system for about another $85. If you're willing to do the mechanicing yourself, shop around for a reputable parts store and an A/C shop to do the flushing (that could add $100 due to the price of the flush) and I'll bet you could get it done for about half of what the dealership quoted you. It's not too difficult of a job to replace that stuff, you can take your time and it'll take maybe a weekend.

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'98 F150 XL Regular Cab, LWB, 4.2L V6, 5 Spd, 3.55 LS, Rhino Lining, factory heavy duty suspension, 3" Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter, Oxford White minus the two tone garbage. BIG TIME FoMoCo p/u fan, not some fair weather hammerhead.

 

I replaced the compressor, accumulator/filter/drier, and cleaned the evaporater coil on a 94 ranger and it took 5 hours but the orifice and evap were in an easy to get location. Ford Man, Is it a pain in the ash to access the coil on a 97-99 F150?