Fuel pumps right back through return line

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  #16  
Old 10-15-2016, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Patman
Are you sure you don't have a PATS issue? Is the theft light on or flashing during cranking?
Pretty sure. It comes on when turning the key on and goes out after a couple seconds like its supposed to. And no flashing during cranking.
 
  #17  
Old 10-15-2016, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve W
So I got the noid light and they are pulsing fine, the weird thing is that when cranking it over with all injectirs unplugged, it tries to start more than with them plugged in. So now I am really confused.
It may be that a leaking injector is flooding the engine when they're plugged in and the engine is too fuel rich to fire. Just a guess. But it does sound like you have an intermitant problem so it might be hard to find. What do injectors cost? It might be worth just replacing all of them.

I wonder if a compression test would find a leaking injector?

I think that if it were me, I'd do a compression test on all cylinders just to see if there might be any other mechanical issues. Also if you haven't done it yet, you should pull all of the spark plugs and take a close look at them. If the engine is flooding or if it's running too rich on one cylinder then you should be able to tell it by the condition of the spark plug from that cylinder.
 
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Old 10-15-2016, 07:34 PM
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You don't have to buy a fuel pressure tester, most parts stores have them in their tool loaner kits.
 
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Old 10-15-2016, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve W
thanks, and yes you may be right about the injector, although what else would cause my oil to smell like gas?
I do have a scanner, at first it threw the theft system code, so I erased it and it didnt come back. All theft lights are working normal.
I also dont see the point of buying a pressure tester if there is no pressure to test yet. Obviously will when it starts holding pressure.
I just tested the power going to the injectors, which were all good and the same. Tested the ground side with a test light going from battery positive, and no lights on any of them so they arent grounding open. Im in the process of getting a noid light next.
I really hope it is something easy I may have overlooked, cuz this is killin me.
I should have been more specific and said borrow a pressure tester from a parts store loan-a-tool program (as glc pointed out)

Not having enough or having too much fuel pressure can both cause issues, just pressing the Schroeder valve and spraying fuel everywhere doesn't tell you anything other than there is fuel present. It also creates a fire hazard

What specific code was it? Many of the folks here can be a ton more helpful when you're specific with your details, just saying "theft system code" doesn't help much if there were 30 different codes related to the theft system.

Everyone here wants to help each other out.

If I were having your issue, before I started worrying about the injectors I'd start with the parts before it, since your pump runs does it create the correct amount of fuel pressure because that is actually important for the injectors to operate correctly.
A thought occurred to me, since there also needs to be spark present, have you checked that the coils are firing?
 
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Old 10-15-2016, 11:45 PM
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have you tried applying hand vacuum pump to the regulator to test its performance?
 
  #21  
Old 10-16-2016, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 1972-2003f150
I should have been more specific and said borrow a pressure tester from a parts store loan-a-tool program (as glc pointed out)

--Yes I am going to go get one, even though it doesnt hold pressure, I can test how much it makes with the pump running at least.

Not having enough or having too much fuel pressure can both cause issues, just pressing the Schroeder valve and spraying fuel everywhere doesn't tell you anything other than there is fuel present. It also creates a fire hazard

--its only held the pressure once, when I pulled the whole rail out, zip-tied the injectors to it, and cycled the pump to check for leaks, which there werent any, and suddenly it was holding pressure. I put everything back together and tried to start it, it fired for a second, died, and back to not holding pressure in the rail.

What specific code was it? Many of the folks here can be a ton more helpful when you're specific with your details, just saying "theft system code" doesn't help much if there were 30 different codes related to the theft system.

--the theft code number I cant remember, but it was from trying to start it for too long. After it doesnt start for a certain time, the theft system activates.

Everyone here wants to help each other out.

--I appreciate it and thank you.

If I were having your issue, before I started worrying about the injectors I'd start with the parts before it, since your pump runs does it create the correct amount of fuel pressure because that is actually important for the injectors to operate correctly.
A thought occurred to me, since there also needs to be spark present, have you checked that the coils are firing?

--yes, getting spark, and have replaced all the plugs. When I pulled the old ones they were wet.

also I will have to look up what hand pump for the regulator you guys are talkin about.

Thanks for the replies, and all the help. Its rough learning all these things about fuel injection, and not having a vehicle to go get the parts.
 
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Old 10-16-2016, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve W
also I will have to look up what hand pump for the regulator you guys are talkin about.

Thanks for the replies, and all the help. Its rough learning all these things about fuel injection, and not having a vehicle to go get the parts.
I've been there, it sucks when your only set of wheels is broken and you feel like you're beating your head against a rock.
 
  #23  
Old 10-16-2016, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 1972-2003f150
I've been there, it sucks when your only set of wheels is broken and you feel like you're beating your head against a rock.
yep its rather tough. I took a well deserved day off from it today. Gonna get the pressure gauge tomorrow. Also I replied to you within that quote up a couple posts back, I just did it wrong, haha.

When I get the pressure gauge tomorrow, Im gonna start over from scratch, right from the pump.
 
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Old 10-16-2016, 09:56 PM
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I don't remember if it's possible, but did you maybe swap the fuel lines on the rail? Meaning the pressure is coming in from the return side of the regulator?
 
  #25  
Old 10-16-2016, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Patman
I don't remember if it's possible, but did you maybe swap the fuel lines on the rail? Meaning the pressure is coming in from the return side of the regulator?
i thought of that actually, haha. And yeah checked it many times, I removed the box from the truck to make things a little easier as well, so I will check again.
 
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Old 10-16-2016, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve W
i thought of that actually, haha. And yeah checked it many times, I removed the box from the truck to make things a little easier as well, so I will check again.
I think Pat may have been thinking of the engine side of the fuel lines? You did mention you had that end apart too.

I caught the remarks inside the qoute

Maybe your pressure test will lead to a solution.

Here's a link to a troubleshooting page I just found on testing fuel pressure

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...he-fuel-pump-1

I read a little bit of it, and it has some good info in there.
 
  #27  
Old 10-16-2016, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1972-2003f150
I think Pat may have been thinking of the engine side of the fuel lines? You did mention you had that end apart too.

I caught the remarks inside the qoute

Maybe your pressure test will lead to a solution.

Here's a link to a troubleshooting page I just found on testing fuel pressure

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...he-fuel-pump-1

I read a little bit of it, and it has some good info in there.
Actually when I tried to test the injectors, the little plastic release pieces I bought for the fuel filter, were only big enough for the filter connect, and the pump's connect. The ones going to the rail looked much larger, so I just left them on. So they should be good, and like I said, it held pressure when I picked it up and trued to look for leaky injectors, plugged em back in and all the hoses, and held still. Only when I tried to start it did it go back to nothing. Then every time after, no matter if i unplug the injectors or not, the rail will not hold pressure. Ive tried cycling the key on 20 times, and still wont.

So I am going to test the pressure with the pump running,(will get my 5 year old niece over here, she likes turning the key, lol) because if I cycle the key, its gone before I can run from the drivers door to the front of the truck. I dont see what good its gonna do, but the more data points the better I spose.

Also yes thanks for the thread, I feel as tho I have read them all by now. But yes thats one I used when I started this venture. Do you guys mind if I start over again and ask advice as I go? It seems much better than waiting till I get super frustrated and asking questions like I did in the beginning of my fuel extravaganza I got goin on here.
 

Last edited by Steve W; 10-16-2016 at 11:50 PM.
  #28  
Old 10-17-2016, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve W
Actually when I tried to test the injectors, the little plastic release pieces I bought for the fuel filter, were only big enough for the filter connect, and the pump's connect. The ones going to the rail looked much larger, so I just left them on. So they should be good, and like I said, it held pressure when I picked it up and trued to look for leaky injectors, plugged em back in and all the hoses, and held still. Only when I tried to start it did it go back to nothing. Then every time after, no matter if i unplug the injectors or not, the rail will not hold pressure. Ive tried cycling the key on 20 times, and still wont.

So I am going to test the pressure with the pump running,(will get my 5 year old niece over here, she likes turning the key, lol) because if I cycle the key, its gone before I can run from the drivers door to the front of the truck. I dont see what good its gonna do, but the more data points the better I spose.


Also yes thanks for the thread, I feel as tho I have read them all by now. But yes thats one I used when I started this venture. Do you guys mind if I start over again and ask advice as I go? It seems much better than waiting till I get super frustrated and asking questions like I did in the beginning of my fuel extravaganza I got goin on here.
Did you try the starting fluid method? What were the results?

And maybe post a new thread so you don't get confused.
 
  #29  
Old 10-17-2016, 10:02 AM
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Please don't start a new thread, that will break continuity and make things confusing.
 
  #30  
Old 10-17-2016, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1972-2003f150
Did you try the starting fluid method? What were the results?
I agree. That should at least tell you for certain that you have a fuel issue.

OP said that he changed oil and filter because it smelled like gasoline. I'd like to KNOW how he decided that AND how long it had been since the oil was previously changed. Oil always has some smell LIKE gasoline and I don't know how much experience OP has with diagnosing problems by the smell so I think that it is likely that that is a mis-leading symptom.
 


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