This is on a 1999 ford 150 Does anyone have a tip on how to get that pipe from the heater return line down and seated in the intake easily ? How do you all get it in there? Is there something else I can do instead of using that pipe. I am speaking of the pipe in the back on the passenger side metal where the quick connect connects too.

 

I guess I either stumped the pros or people are scared to suggest something because someone may shoot them down as a bad idea. I went to a local dealer they told me if the pipe goes bad you have to replace the whole intake so I asked them if that's so why do you just sell the pipe. Very strange .

 

I would consider tapping the hole so a brass threaded nipple will screw in and use that nipple to attach the heater hose to.

 

I've only removed and installed it during major projects that included intake removal. Cant imagine an easy way of doing that with the intake on..

 

I have never replaced one myself but my concern would be that if not performed right it will blow out and over heat the engine. That's why I suggest using a threaded fitting of some type into the intake manifold to prevent a blowout failure.

 

Oh I already have the intake off but using a wrench I was tapping the new pipe 40 bucks from ford and the metal seat ring on the pipe from the tapping cracked the pipe so im ordering pipes offline now a couple but I don't want to keep cracking them trying to get them in. The whole is so tight I don't think once its in there it will blow out. I caught h e 1 1 getting the bottom broken piece out the intake. I also wonder just as was said if theres a fix where you can put a nipple in there to eliminate that stupid pipe.

 

Put the end of the tube in dry ice (nitrogen)and let it get as cold as possible then try tapping it into the hole. Regular ice is not cold enough... I have seen bearings installed into machinery using this method the ice shrinks the metal tube and gives more clearance so much so that it may slide right in. I just used this method on my pontoon outboard motor replacing the water pump housing, worked great. Or tap the hole as I suggested above and use a brass fitting.