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Good! A lot of times you'll be able to turn it backwards to get them off. You can remove all of the trans bell housing bolts. The trans won't go anywhere as long as the engine is still connected to it. I don't know if you've done this yet, but you need to remove the starter as well. You can put it up on stands so you can have the truck closer to the ground to give you more clearance in your garage. As far as replacing parts goes, if you're at 100k+ miles on the truck, then I replace the rad hoses, coil boots (your choice on the coils), the p/s pump should be fine (just get a new pulley for it). As far as headers go, I would go with a pair of shorty headers from reputable company (bbk, Flowmaster, etc..). From what I've read and talked to people, I've found that the shorty headers will give you better torque figures plus you don't have to have you're whole exhaust redone. So personally I would go with shorty headers, high flow cats, and glass pack or a good muffler from a reputable company. Also,I'm not sure what failed in your engine, but make sure and check your intake manifold for excessive oil and bits/chunks/shavings of metal in it. If you find any of that in there you need to replace it. You mustreplace the PCVvalve as well, I'd also replace the thermostat and gasket. Where are you getting your new engine from? Depending on what your new engine comes with, you may need to get some random small parts.
Good! A lot of times you'll be able to turn it backwards to get them off. You can remove all of the trans bell housing bolts. The trans won't go anywhere as long as the engine is still connected to it. I don't know if you've done this yet, but you need to remove the starter as well. You can put it up on stands so you can have the truck closer to the ground to give you more clearance in your garage. As far as replacing parts goes, if you're at 100k+ miles on the truck, then I replace the rad hoses, coil boots (your choice on the coils), the p/s pump should be fine (just get a new pulley for it). As far as headers go, I would go with a pair of shorty headers from reputable company (bbk, Flowmaster, etc..). From what I've read and talked to people, I've found that the shorty headers will give you better torque figures plus you don't have to have you're whole exhaust redone. So personally I would go with shorty headers, high flow cats, and glass pack or a good muffler from a reputable company. Also,I'm not sure what failed in your engine, but make sure and check your intake manifold for excessive oil and bits/chunks/shavings of metal in it. If you find any of that in there you need to replace it. You mustreplace the PCVvalve as well, I'd also replace the thermostat and gasket. Where are you getting your new engine from? Depending on what your new engine comes with, you may need to get some random small parts.
Hey, great tip about the manifold, i remember that it had some oil on it but nothing considerable, will check again tomorrow and will see if it has any shavings.
About the PCV, i spent about on hour searching now and the consensus seem to be that 2004-2008 5.4 trucks do not have a PCV or at least have it embedded on the driver side passenger cover and is not serviceable. WTF??? first time i hear about something like this.
I got the Engine from Powertrain Products. It is supposed to be here on Friday. From what they told me its a long block with oilpan included and without head covers.
Truck has about 120K miles so i wanted to take the opportunity to change anything i can think could go wrong.
I went online shopping yesterday and got myself
motor mounts
all radiator and coolant reservoir hoses
water pump
steering pump and pulley
New Belt, tensioner and idler pulleys
New knock sensors (i damaged one in the process of removing the manifold)
Harmonic balancer bolt (the one i have now is too beaten to reinstall)
COPs
I did my heater hoses. If your replacing hoses those are the ones you should do while its easy to get at them.
im on the fence with those.
i have the quick connect style so the only option i think i have is to get motorcraft oem which are 45 for the outlet and 23 for the inlet plus shipping. I know Imputting a lot of money on this swap but spending 70+ in a couple of hoses is a hard one to bite...
My garage is kind of small so i dont have much space on the sides of the truck neither on the top towards the roof.
So i was thinking on pushing the truck out to the driveway, then pull the engine and then push it in while i work on transfering parts from the old engine to the new one and installint things like the motor mounts etc.
However I understand that i have to support the transmission with a jack when i am pull the engine. If this is true, then basically i can not move the truck after i pull it? will i drop or damage the transmission?
Just don't want to leave it on the drive way with no hood and exposing all the wiring to the rain and possibly snow while i get the new engine ready to go in...
I did some measurements and was not sure if the crane could lift the engine enough to clear the front support so i removed the wheels and set the front of the truck on stands as low as i could
I guess that there's no way that it will go in with the headers on....
Those are gonna be fun to bolt on. Cant be as bad as boltimg headers on a 71 mustang with a 351c. Shock towers make getting at some of the bolts almost impossible. Good luck!
02-02-2015, 10:10 AM
