Extremely long start

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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 12:45 PM
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Yamaha34's Avatar
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Extremely long start

I just bought a 2003 F-150 5.4L. It had a bit of a long start when I bought it, but after taking it to a mechanic prior to purchase, he said that the fuel pump needed to be replaced because there was a valve in the pump that holds the pressure (40-50psi) so that the vehicle starts right up. This valve was supposedly bad. I had them replace the fuel pump and filter. That night when I picked up my truck after hours it took even longer to start. They told me that they were going to warranty the fuel pump and they put a new one on the next week. I just picked it up last night and now it's even worse! It takes 15-20 seconds for my truck to start now!!! I'm scared that if I take it back to them my truck won't start when I get it back! It doesn't matter if the engine is warm or cold, if it was running, every time I start it, it is 15-20 seconds to get it started...any suggestions?!?

Edit: it came with a cold air intake installed and I put on a superchip - not sure if this is relevant to my issue, but just wanted to make sure all the info was here!
 

Last edited by Yamaha34; Jan 1, 2015 at 12:48 PM. Reason: More info
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 03:01 PM
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I would dump the superchip just out of general principle.

You really need a fuel pressure gauge attached to the fuel rail under the hood so you can see what's going on.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 05:25 PM
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I think yer mechanics butter has slipped of his biscuit. Try this before doing anything. Turn the key on but do not start. Wait 5 seconds and turn it off. Do the same thing 3 times. On the forth try start the truck. If it takes a long time to start, it's not the fuel pump. The pump only works for the first 3 seconds to pressurize the system and then turns off. It starts again once the engine is running.
FWIW, you can buy a fuel pressure gauge at Harbor Freight for 20 bucks. It works great and it screws on the Shrader Valve....the thingy on the fuel rail that looks like a tire valve stem.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
I would dump the superchip just out of general principle.

You really need a fuel pressure gauge attached to the fuel rail under the hood so you can see what's going on.
Just out of curiosity, why would you dump the superchip? It had this issue prior to me installing it...would you recommend a different chip? If so, why? Thanks for your help! I'll be working on my fuel issue today, right after I run to harbor freight!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 12:12 PM
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Tire valve "thingy" I actually laughed out loud!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 09:05 PM
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Superchips and their ilk often cause issues that either create new or mask old issues.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 07:12 PM
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Yamaha, I had a similar issue with my previous truck.

Took it to the dealer, they couldn't reproduce it 100% but replaced the plugs, cleaned the TB and MAF and replaced my battery. When I went to pick it up it was just as bad as before. Cycling the key to run the fuel pump several times before starting was a "band-aid" at best, since the injectors still had to bleed out the air in the fuel line before getting good fuel flow.

I bought a fuel pressure gauge and drove around for a couple days with it tie-wrapped to the motor. What I found was that after a couple of hours sitting the rail pressure would drop to 35-40 PSI and to 0 overnight. Another symptom was that sometimes during cranking the motor would seem to "seize" momentarily and then keep turning over.

Because I had the guage I was able to relay all of this information to the dealership - they suspected a leaking fuel injector was the cause of the pressure loss and the hydraulic lock. They had it overnight, scoped the cylinders and sure enough found fuel pooled on the #1 intake valve. 6 new injectors later everything was good to go.

Do yourself a favour and pick up a fuel gauge - it can tell you a lot about what's going on.
 
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