oil pressure sensor
oil pressure sensor
Does anybody know if the oil pressure sensor has to be grounded to get a reading on the gauge? I got an autometer pressure gauge and the senosr that came with it won't fit because the ford and it's dumb designers put the dam eng. mount really close to where the sensor goes. I am going to get a fitting and I plan on running a flexible line to a more suitable location.
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 93
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From: w.paterson NJ
I installed a real oil pressure guage. When I took the old 1 out I noticed it had 1 wire on it . So to get a reading in the 'old' guage I grounded the wire.
So yes it has to be grounded. It is a simple switch. When there is pressure at the switch all it does is ground itself ..
JT
So yes it has to be grounded. It is a simple switch. When there is pressure at the switch all it does is ground itself ..
JT
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 1
From: Nu Joizey
Sending unit
What motor have you got? Maybe you could use an elbow or a tee fitting to direct it to a spot with more room for it. You can get elbows in 90 and 45 degrees. i did that on a momtorbike once so I could have a gauge on the engine and still keep the idiot light on the dash functional.
Good luck, hope this helps.
Good luck, hope this helps.
LE: I have a 97 4x4 with the 4.6. Next time you change your oil take a took at the aftside of where the filter mounts. You should see a wire. It goes to the sensor. If you think you can get a t fitting or something in there then let me know.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 1
From: Nu Joizey
Oil Pressure Switch problems
Hello King James, I just crawled under my truck to take a look and my engine has the oil pressure switch facing forward opposite of the motor mount. I suspect that yours might be different because of the 4WD whereas mine is 2WD. On my engine the OPS is about 3 inches away from touching the power steering pulley.
Anyhooo no worries, if you can remove the old switch and the Automemter unit is too big (most sending units are larger than their switch counterparts) you should still have enough room to screw in an elbow. I'm not sure but I remember most of the OPS's being 1/4" pipe thread. If you pick up an elbow fitting that is male on one side and female on the other it will allow you to point the sending unit downwards or sideways and might give you enough room to install the Autometer unit.
If you can't use elbows and have go the flexible tubing route you would have to run a ground wire to the unit or ground it in some other manner in addition to the signal wire because it's usually self grounding when it's screwed into the engine ( this is assuming that you're using non metalic tubing). Furthermore, if you're forced to use the flexible tubing you may as well get a mechanical gauge and eliminate the sending unit, ground, and signal wires. You can just run the tubing to the gauge itself and simplify things by reducing the parts count, wires, and the number of fittings that could be a possible source of oil leaks in the future.
.Remember to ground the original wire from the oil pressure switch. If our trucks have a system that shuts down the engine in case of sudden oil pressure loss you wont be able to get the engine started back up and running!
Good luck, I hope this helps. Post back when you're done and let us know how things turned out for you.
Anyhooo no worries, if you can remove the old switch and the Automemter unit is too big (most sending units are larger than their switch counterparts) you should still have enough room to screw in an elbow. I'm not sure but I remember most of the OPS's being 1/4" pipe thread. If you pick up an elbow fitting that is male on one side and female on the other it will allow you to point the sending unit downwards or sideways and might give you enough room to install the Autometer unit.
If you can't use elbows and have go the flexible tubing route you would have to run a ground wire to the unit or ground it in some other manner in addition to the signal wire because it's usually self grounding when it's screwed into the engine ( this is assuming that you're using non metalic tubing). Furthermore, if you're forced to use the flexible tubing you may as well get a mechanical gauge and eliminate the sending unit, ground, and signal wires. You can just run the tubing to the gauge itself and simplify things by reducing the parts count, wires, and the number of fittings that could be a possible source of oil leaks in the future.
.Remember to ground the original wire from the oil pressure switch. If our trucks have a system that shuts down the engine in case of sudden oil pressure loss you wont be able to get the engine started back up and running!
Good luck, I hope this helps. Post back when you're done and let us know how things turned out for you.
I found about a place about a half hour from me that makes custom hoses. I'm going to go there and get something made.
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Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 93
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From: w.paterson NJ
Hello ,
I was able to get the fitting in where I took the old 1 out. My oil filter is relocated to the drivers side front behind the bumper.
I think it was 1/8 copper tubing I ran to the Oil guage.
Like LP said. If you can get a real guage do so.
Sorry I did not respond quicker.. : )
If you have any questions drop me an e-mail
jt150@optonline.net
JT
I was able to get the fitting in where I took the old 1 out. My oil filter is relocated to the drivers side front behind the bumper.
I think it was 1/8 copper tubing I ran to the Oil guage.
Like LP said. If you can get a real guage do so.
Sorry I did not respond quicker.. : )
If you have any questions drop me an e-mail
jt150@optonline.net
JT
Well, I got a flexible braided line today to run to the new sensor. There is a place here that makes custom hoses and stuff. Price didn't seem to bad, 22.15 for 4ft of stainless braided tubing and the fittings I needed.