So I got the fuel pump relay piece fixed for $279. That didn't really solve my earlier problems. Here are the symptoms: At idle the voltage drops to 11.5 but while driving it is around 14 or higher. Oil pressure drops to less than 10 at idle when the volts drop too. While driving oil psi is normal. Under the hood the engine makes a slight rattling noise but I can't tell where it's from and the motor seems to vibrate more than normal. Only thing I can think of is a bad alternator. Battery was replaced in October of 2012.

 

Didn't you replace all the pulleys? Could it be related?

 

Yeah replaced tensioner and both idler pullies. Didn't replace the alternator pulley though.

 

What FPR piece on a 97 costs $279? I'm lost, I can picture everything vividly, but have no idea what your talking about.

You must be talking about something else or a different vehicle lol.

What earlier problems ? Yea, lost again.

 

Now I'm throwing code P0356 and I have to drive it about 1000 miles tomorrow

 

What a strange thread, oh well.

 

Still itches

 

P0356 means there is a ground fault in the ignition. Double and triple check your wiring conections. It's not caused by the alternator or the fuel pump relay.

 

No but it is another issue to deal with. Also unrelated the oil pressure dies when idling. Drops to like 10 then 0 then stall.

 

You have to fix one issue at a time so you can get a clearer picture, then rediagnose what's left. Rinse, repeat. I buy a lot of turds off Craigslist, that's the best (and cheapest) way I have found. Don't let the symptoms of several problems interacting muddy the water. Be methodical and knock one out at a time.

 

So which issue do you suggest I start with?

 

If you think you have an alternator problem take vehicle to autoparts store for a free charging system check!

 

All they do at those charging checks is hook up a voltmeter and if the alternator isn't doing anything wrong at the time they say its fine. I have a voltmeter on the car and can do the same thing.

 

It's a bit more sophisticated than that - they use a load tester that also measures the amperage the alternator is capable of providing. An alternator could be putting out the full 14 or so volts but have problems that restrict the amount of current - I've seen alternators rated at 110 amps only putting out 50 or so.

 

I'll need to get that looked at then.