97 4.6 seeping coolant onto starter

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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 06:45 AM
  #16  
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From: MI
Originally Posted by DYNOTECH
Well is it a common problem? Time can also be a factor with a head gasket and yours like mine is a 1997.
First I would check under the intake manifold in the "valley" for coolant. A intake gasket coolant leak will allow coolant to settle in the valley and slowly drain out the back of the engine down onto the trans and starter via the hole that is cast in the rear of the valley wall. Intake gaskets are not hard to replace.
My 97 4.6 blew a passenger side head gasket around 100,000 miles. I changed both sides while I was at it as you already have 90% of the parts off just to fix one side. In terms of difficulty changing the head gaskets yourself. I replaced both of mine in an unheated garage during sub 20deg temps in a Michigan winter alone in around 18 hours give or take. There are guys on this site that would beat that by a considerable amount I am sure. I installed new PI cyl heads on mine but in all honesty there is not a huge noticeable difference. I think you will add around 25-30 hp and of course some torque. Sounds like a lot but not huge. A 5.4 will get you more and I hear its not a bad swap in these trucks (never done it myself)
The real danger with a blown head gasket is when it deteriorates to the point that it allows coolant to flow into one or more of the engine cyls. This can cause a hydrolock which in most cases will damage the engine beyond repair. Good luck.
What's up mister? I recall when you did that, -didn't envy you at the time lol. I'd lock up my self, - rigormortise for sure under those conditions, along with your fingers feeling like they might snap off .
_____________________

BTW, - In the past when tuning up the 98 at a time when the truck seemed to run and move like a heavy slug. No way to tell what the deal was, -thought it was just getting tired since I was @ about 180,000 miles at the time. I came across a few new Romeo engines being parted out from the valve/cam covers up. Vic engines from the plant, so I grabbed the coils and injectors from one of them. Yellow tagged Motorcraft coils and the Bosch design #3 injectors (EV6 didn't have a choice lol). Installed them and the difference was night and day. Truck went from a slug to feeling quick/responsive, surprising boost with performance. It was hard to judge just how far off its game it was, until I spent some attention on these components.. I can't say for sure whether it was lacking in fire or f/delivery,- as I swapped in the new injectors and coils at the same time. Could of been either or, maybe both.
Also, the engine wasn't misfiring beforehand, seemed to be running okay, just had that heavy tired sort of demeanor lol. I started going thru it here and there about 6 months prior updating sensors, lines, brake system, miscellaneous when this opportunity sort of presented itself. Glad it did! Still runs exceptionally well, now @ 300,000 plus miles.

Anyway, if you haven't done so yet, it may benefit your 97 to update the original coils and injectors. Thought I'd let you know, -something to keep in mind anyway.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Dec 29, 2012 at 07:06 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 07:34 AM
  #17  
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From: MI
Originally Posted by brdmh44
Jbrew, once agin THANK YOU!!

I can assure you that my tools are up to par and I have a few snap on torque wrenches that are inspected regularly. I farm but used to work at an automotive machine shop. I have no desire to half *** this job. Thankfully I have plenty of blue collar friends who are willing to help of need be.

I am going to pressure test my cooling system and have a helper make sure it holds PSI when I test for leaks. If I do in fact need to pull my intake I would be more than happy to take photos step by step if someone would like a write up.

Thanks again to all of those who have helped!! I will let you know what comes up and plan my attack from there.

Have a great weekend everyone!
Sound great! Yea, I don't think you'll have any problems. I have the Ford Service Procedures for anything Engine if you end up needing. I can also link you to a Ford Service 97-03 download that's free, if needed.

I've documented the heater core hardline O-ring delete modification in the past, but never published it. Ford has done this as well with a few of their re-mans in the past, but AFAIK, nothing was published there as well. However, there has been a Memo letter sent out at one time thru engine builders that contained a photo of the Ford re-man HC tube update. Chilton/Haynes managed to get a hold of this and published the photo toward the end of section one in the manuals they offer for sale. Well, they use to anyway. I do have modification photos from documentation in the past that came after experiencing repeated O-rings failures. I can probably dig those up as well.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 07:41 AM
  #18  
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From: Beaumont, Tx
Originally Posted by jbrew
That's a different problem that can occur vs the one I was referring to, -and it happens at the other side of the Heater Core Hard Line. -Where the heater core hose connects to it just behind the head. Ford used a garden hose type clamp at that connection that more less cuts into the hose. That said, -that's really not the problem, the hose can take it, in-fact , those hoses should out last the vehicle under normal conditions. The problem there is with time,corrosion can occur between the hose and hard line. A slow electrolysis type action goes on deteriorating hose integrity from the inside out and just at the connection. Same thing happens @ the O-ring side, it just happens quicker and once it happens around the O-rings, this pits the hard-line which can make replacing the O-rings not worth the trouble, - it's still going to leak at some degree or very shortly after replacing the O-rings w/new set (two @ the pump stem, blue and red).

Confused yet lol. Trying to make it sound as simple as it is, -doesn't always come across that way lol. The hard-line connections, hoses, O-rings leak under pressure and only at a certain "burst" type pressure you could say. How bad and when is determined by how long you ignore it or let it ride lol. Once they begin to puddle under the truck or start filling the plug wells (#3 & #4) speeds the need for repair. This can go on for awhile, but once its noticed you'll conclude its getting worse as time goes on. At least you can still drive the vehicle and plan to take a day or weekend to fix every problem in this area and be done with it, - fix it to last that is...

With all that, they can leak at the manifold connection stem and even the stem manifold tap can leak or break. That's where the metal tube is pressed into the intake manifold. It can be difficult acquiring a new tube to press in yourself, but with a little ingenuity or a simple trip to bone yard, it's doable.
Interesting. In all my dealings with these trucks I've never come across this issue. Granted, my experience is limited to the three 10th gen trucks I've personally owned, my dad's old 99' 4.6 xcab, and various 10th gens owned by friends. I can see what you're talking about though and how it could happen.

Being the cheapskate I am... couldn't you just rtv the heck out of the connections?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 10:13 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Fordtrucktexan
Interesting. In all my dealings with these trucks I've never come across this issue. Granted, my experience is limited to the three 10th gen trucks I've personally owned, my dad's old 99' 4.6 xcab, and various 10th gens owned by friends. I can see what you're talking about though and how it could happen.

Being the cheapskate I am... couldn't you just rtv the heck out of the connections?
A good fix is relatively cheap. I'm not sure how rtv could work tho? Perhaps your referring to the manifold where it's a pressed in fitting? Other than that and at the hose connections or the hard line O-ring connection, I'd have to no, definitely not. General rule that applies to rtv is that it's a metal to metal contact sealant for the most part, although its not totally limited to such, its also used to assist for shimming varied types of gaskets or just keeping them in place during assembly. Ford specs different sealants and AFAIK their sealants come from Loctite Corp who use to own Permatex up until 2000 or 2001 I believe. Permatex was sold, I can't recall who owns them now ? Perhaps if I heard the name or looked it up, I'd become re-familiarized lol. Permatex has good products. I know they have Blue (for water), Black, I believe it's called Ultra Black for smooth surface and Gold that contains copper and colored red for high heat. Generally used for exhaust and manifold or hh applications. They're is also Grey which has been around longer than any of them. They all are very versatile, but I wouldn't recommend including it with a hose slip fitting. It's better just to either cut back a hose and refitting with solid expansion clamps. when possible or replace when that's not in the cards.
Personally, I use Loctite anaerobic sealants as these are the sealants used in industrial applications. Anaerobic = "in the absence of air" cure. I use #567, 565, 545 Purple, 572 (engine build) often. Loctite products are also used as a pre-applied product by specialty bolt and/fastener suppliers. IMO Permatex has good products and will suit most needs automotive, although I have NEVER liked they're watered down thread lockers lol., Loctite offers a wider variety to suit a specific need and that's where they excel.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Dec 29, 2012 at 10:17 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 11:46 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
What's up mister? I recall when you did that, -didn't envy you at the time lol. I'd lock up my self, - rigormortise for sure under those conditions, along with your fingers feeling like they might snap off .
_____________________

BTW, - In the past when tuning up the 98 at a time when the truck seemed to run and move like a heavy slug. No way to tell what the deal was, -thought it was just getting tired since I was @ about 180,000 miles at the time. I came across a few new Romeo engines being parted out from the valve/cam covers up. Vic engines from the plant, so I grabbed the coils and injectors from one of them. Yellow tagged Motorcraft coils and the Bosch design #3 injectors (EV6 didn't have a choice lol). Installed them and the difference was night and day. Truck went from a slug to feeling quick/responsive, surprising boost with performance. It was hard to judge just how far off its game it was, until I spent some attention on these components.. I can't say for sure whether it was lacking in fire or f/delivery,- as I swapped in the new injectors and coils at the same time. Could of been either or, maybe both.
Also, the engine wasn't misfiring beforehand, seemed to be running okay, just had that heavy tired sort of demeanor lol. I started going thru it here and there about 6 months prior updating sensors, lines, brake system, miscellaneous when this opportunity sort of presented itself. Glad it did! Still runs exceptionally well, now @ 300,000 plus miles.

Anyway, if you haven't done so yet, it may benefit your 97 to update the original coils and injectors. Thought I'd let you know, -something to keep in mind anyway.
Hey jbrew good to hear from ya.
I did install new coils and injectors and she runs like new. Actually I parked it in my garage upnorth at the cottage for the winter, gas prices around here were getting up there so I'm driving a 2003 Focus around town for the winter. Would much rather be driving the truck. Wife says I'm a truck guy I just don't look right driving that little car around. lol Hey 300,000 miles on the 98..well its just getting broke in. With your mechanical abilities you should get another couple hundred thou out of it. I have seen these engines with over 600,000 miles on them its not unheard of. We used to get taxi engines with over 300,000 on the odometer and that's not counting the time those engines run idling waiting for customers which is around the clock and they were still running good.
Always good hearing from you jbrew. Have a safe and prosperous 2013 my friend.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 03:38 PM
  #21  
jbrew's Avatar
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Originally Posted by DYNOTECH
Hey jbrew good to hear from ya.
I did install new coils and injectors and she runs like new. Actually I parked it in my garage upnorth at the cottage for the winter, gas prices around here were getting up there so I'm driving a 2003 Focus around town for the winter. Would much rather be driving the truck. Wife says I'm a truck guy I just don't look right driving that little car around. lol Hey 300,000 miles on the 98..well its just getting broke in. With your mechanical abilities you should get another couple hundred thou out of it. I have seen these engines with over 600,000 miles on them its not unheard of. We used to get taxi engines with over 300,000 on the odometer and that's not counting the time those engines run idling waiting for customers which is around the clock and they were still running good.
Always good hearing from you jbrew. Have a safe and prosperous 2013 my friend.
Same here! Okay, yea I wasn't sure you went thru the coils and injectors yet. That's quite a jump from the truck to a Focus. I'm not sure I could get in and out of one of those things, - without a few choice words anyway lol. Going from a truck that fits to go cart sounds kind of cruel, but understandable under those circumstances. However, it makes going up to the cottage that much more appetizing I bet.
Yea, I think this engine is down for the long haul. No signs of slowing down yet. The body is another story. It's gotten and getting new lower bed panels, rockers and one cab corner. I've drove it every winter and it was starting to show. I don't really enjoy body work, but it deserves it, -painting this spring and I'll be glad to get past this little project lol.
Thanks for the well wishes, same to you my friend. 2013 is going to start slow, but that's alright by me, -slow is good lol.

Take care.
 
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