Yes Sir, that is what codes usually come up (171, 174) befor I replaced pcv, ff. The 153 has only popped up one other time. It is wet under the intake manifold but I am not sure if it is the gaskets or not. I do know I need to fix what ever is leaking under there.

 

Any time you have those 150's series DTC's. The sensors are almost spent.
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Yea, its leaking at the water pump/heater core hardline connection. There's 2 O-rings that go bad on the pump stem. HC hard line slip fits over the pump stem and o-rings. They always leak there.

 

JBREW thanks for the heads up in regards to the 150's DTC. I talked to O'riely's the other day about the sensors. They did not call them bank 1 or 2 etc...They just said it has 4, 2 of 1 kind and 2 of another. Do you know which one's that I should be looking for or just replace all 4? On that note how would I tell one set from the other? Oh yeah, one last quick question. The truck has headers welded right into the exhaust. Will I ever be able to alleviate the DTC's with headers on it?

 

You have upstream and downstream sensors - they are all actually interchangeable, the only difference I'm aware of is the pigtail length. That's why the upstream (front) sensors are different part numbers than the downstream (rear) sensors. The front sensors control the mixture, the rear sensors monitor cat efficiency for the OBD2 system.

Replace both front sensors. Use only Motorcraft or Bosch sensors - Motorcraft preferred. Rock Auto should have the best price on them ($36.99, part # DY382). Keep the "good" bank 1 sensor that you pull out of the passenger side for a spare.

 

Right, the difference is harness length. The rears may also have a a different plastic guide tab which can be shaved off with a blade if need be.

No need to worry about all that in your case. This info usually pertains to header installs as harness length is crucial. You have to purchase downstream's for upstream's in order to accomplish a one piece harness. But yea, your not installing headers so, no worry's.

For the Auto parts supplier not knowing about bank and two, - Well, they just sell the parts lol. You have 4 02 sensors, two upstream and two downstream. You want the two upstream.

 

EDIT! I see that you do have headers lol. Crap, I missed that. Well, what kind of headers ? You'll either have Long Tube headers or Shorties. Long Tubes are quite a bit different from Shorties. With Long Tubes, it impossible to run converters, so you'll only have two converters. With Shorties, you have the room to 4 converters. Your vehicle originally had 4 converters.

However, you may have Shorties and just two converters lol. Your going to have to figure out what type of headers you have before I can give direction.

Sounds like you have Long Tubes and Yes, you can definitely set it up to alleviate those DTC's, IF your referring to efficiency DTC's. Those would be PO420/PO430 DTC's and you haven't reported those, unless I missed that too. Not PO171/PO174 DTC's as those have nothing to do with your exhaust.

So you understand. The 171/174 DTC's show that your O2 Sensors are indeed working. Your other DTC in the 150's suggest your O2 sensors are on their way out. So when you change your sensors, all that's going to do is get rid of that 150's series DTC. Your 171/174 will still be there because those show you have unmetered air intake, - a leak up top.

 

With that model year, your going to have to change the intake manifold gaskets, repair the heater core tube etc... While doing this, you'll find what's bad along the way, since you'll be removing the parts that cause these DTC's.

These engines are notorious for intake gasket and o-ring failures that you currently have. The intake gaskets always fial right at the front water jackets and pit the heads. A little electrolysis adds up over time. That's fairly easy to fix as well.

You can do all these repairs yourself. Post back before you do this for a few hints about things you may encounter along the way.

 

Thanks jbrew, I have the intake gaskets(4) and hope to try and replace them tomorrow. Is the heater tube obvious? The 171/174 DTC's kick off rather quickly, however the 153 takes a little longer to show up on my obd II. I did have one new code today that stated something was plugged or off. Unfortuntely I hastily cleared the codes and did not get the number or specific verbage. I will make sure to get bosch o2 sensors when I get them for replacemet. Thanks for clearing up the upstream question as well.

 

Motorcraft sensors preferred.

 

Roger thank you Sir.

 

Probably those hoses at the EGR pipe. The DPFE Monitor will check the integrity of the DPFE signal hoses. The test is run during a period of acceleration, when the PCM commands the EGR valve to close momentarily, and then checks the DPFE signal for a voltage consistent with zero flow. A voltage increase or decrease during acceleration indicates a fault with the hoses during this test. I've seen quite a few fused together, -melted/blocked/freaken plugged.

So Perhaps,-

P1405 DPFE sensor Upstream hose off or plugged

P1406 DPFE sensor Downstream hose off or plugged.

Not all applications use the P1406 code. In these vehicles the error code P1401 is recorded instead.

 

Thanks jbrew, I will check the EGR hoses in a few minutes so as to look for any obvious signs of cracking, fusing, or the like. In regards to the electrolysis you mentioned on the intake ports, what parts/equipment do I need to get in order to repair the damage?

 

Yea, where they pit around the water jackets. You need a wire brush, small pic or awl to clean the pitted metal and Permatex or Loctite metal filler. Also need Lacquer thinner or Acetone as BOTH metal surfaces have to be absolutely oil free before setting the new intake gasket down.

For the O-rings. I don't replace those since they don't last long after doing so. Instead, opt for a small piece of 5/8 heater hose at the heater core hardline/water pump connect.

 

Okay, new problem, maybe a little more serious. Today I took my 6 x 12 enclosed trailer (single axle) with two dirtbikes to a track about 40 minutes from my house. After about 30 minutes of driving 60-65 mph the truck suddenly started losing speed and rpm. I was standing on the pedal trying to keep up with the flow of traffic. Luckily it stayed above 50 mph and I was able to get off the main interstate and took the back roads to the track. It seemed to shift fine and gain rpms anywhere from 0-45 on the back roads. On the way back from the track the truck did the same thing anytime I tried to get around 70 mph. Do anyone think it is fuel issue or a transmission issue? I have a feeling I am getting ready to lose my rear on this truck.

 

Have you changed the fuel filter? I'd take it to a muffler shop and get the cats tested for blockage. I'd also pull one or more spark plugs and look at them.