Ive read that cooler thermostats provide more power, I am interested as to why?. I was also reading my chiltons today and noticed that on the fords there is a coolant sensor that influences how much air and fuel are injected based on engine tempature. does a cold engine recieve more fuel and air, or does a hot engine recieve more

 

A richer mixture is given to a cold engine just like the old engines with a choke.
Do not change to a cooler tstat it will mess up the ECU programming

 

54 is correct. Don't change your t-stat unless you are chipping your computer, and then only use what is recommended.
Take care,
-Chris

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'95 Eddie Bauer F-150 SC & '64 Falcon/Ranchero
-------------------------------------
Are you A.S.E. Certified ? If so, ask me about
iATN...the best tool you'll ever have ! ! And it's
free

 

thanks, i know hypertech offers a chip for a cooler tstat. some of the benifits is the 100 degree temperature drop under the hood, which would help out all the guys with the exposed k&n, sucking in the hot air

 

A cooler tstat will cause MPG to go down so be ready to accept that.

 

Also, I'd stay away from Hypertech. JET or Superchip would be a much wiser choice.
Take care,
-Chris

------------------
'95 Eddie Bauer F-150 SC & '64 Falcon/Ranchero
-------------------------------------
Are you A.S.E. Certified ? If so, ask me about
iATN...the best tool you'll ever have ! ! And it's
free

 

Speaking of thermostats, does anyone know the factory temperature of t-stat? Also, need to know how high can you get one as winter is coming & it seems the heater doesn't put out hot air like will be needed. Any problems if running a hotter t-stat? Thanks!

 

Do not replace tstat with a higher temp one it doesn't make the truck warm up any quicker.
They both will remain closed till the engine warms up.
You normally are getting more than enough heat by time the engine warms up.
Plus tstat settings are designed to work with the ECU.

 

The nominal calibration for Triton thermostat is 197F. That is the temperature that the thermostat just barely (.003")begins to open. Full open is about 215F. Lower temperatures cause problems with water condesation in the engine oil (forms sludge eventually). Lower temperatures cause problems with heater performance.

 

So if I understand you correctly, I'll have to leave the factory one in there & just put another layer of winterwear on. Maybe a winter front would speed warmup. Thanks, guys!

 

Doobie
There are other things to consider. If your problem is with warm up time, then either the thermostat is leaking (not seated fully), or the blend air doors under the dash are not functioning correctly. If they don't function correctly they can cause the warm air from the heater to be diluted by the cold outside ai. If you are just impatient, the factory block heater works really good at prewarming the block and the coolant in it while parked. You just have to remember to unplug it before you drive off.

 

chris- deja vu...

wiskeyeight- Have you seen a 100 deg temp drop underhood? What about IAT (Intake Air Temp)?

[This message has been edited by crash1 (edited 10-26-1999).]

 

DOOBIE:

In cold weather, with an over-sized radiator like those included with the towing pkg, the engine may never be getting fully warmed up. I've heard of a few Expedition owners from the upper states that have similar problems.

I'd say your best solution may be to "block off" a portion of the radiator this winter. I'm sure you've seen the big trucks with the radiator covers. Something similar (or cardboard if you live here in OK) would probably help you the most.

Neal

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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, Optima "T-Bone" wheels, and Clarion In-dash CD player. Just added Smitty Bilt push bars and nerf bars!!

1993 4x2 F150 Reg. Cab LWB- 5.0L, cat-back dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, Superchip, fresh paint, and Line-X bedliner.

2000 "other"
http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo

 

Nomo: That's what I have to do with my truck, in the winter because it never gets above the N when its 40 degrees outside. Lower part of the radiator anyways.

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Thanks!

1993 F-150 302/e4od/355 Limited slip. dual exhuast w/o mufflers,2 1/4" pipes with Echo Tips, headers, accel plugs/wires(8.6mm)/rotor/cap, hypertech powermodule,5% dark tint. Alpine cd player and Pioneer speakers. I need to get it Dyno Tested and qtr mile times. And someday Ill get picks!!!!!!!!!

1989 F-150 XLT 4x4 302/aod true duals with turbo mufflers, 30X9.50" wild country tires, 3:55 gears w/LS(want after market LS for front) 3" SuperLift would be nice too!

Future SuperDuty owner: But I have it the sheet filled:

F-350 SuperCab Longbed, 4x4, offroad pkg. Powerstroke(Duh!) Auto, 3:73Ls Oxford White with grey bench and VERY dark tinted windows. Maybe someday I can afford 33x12.50 BFG's Mud Terrain! Whatcha Think?

 

CRASH, NO I HAVNT PERSONNALY DONE THIS, I WAS INQIURING ABOUT AN ARTICLE I WAS READING ABOUT COOLER TSTATS, AND SYNTHETIC OILS. SUPPOSEDLY THE DIFFS AND ENGINE TEMP SHOWED A HUGE DROP IN TEMP, IT SUPPOSSEDLY SAVED WEAR AND TEAR, REDUCED CARBON BUILDUP, AND PRODUCED HORSE POWER (HOW IM NOT SURE, KNOW, I KNOW PART OF IT WAS THE FACT THAT YOU WERE SUCKING IN COOLER DENSER AIR)? AFTER THE REPLY IVE READ IVE OPTED NOT TO DO IT, I HAVE HOWEVER LEANED OUT THE MAF SENSOR, CUT OUT THE SLEEVE IN THE AIRBOX, ADDED K&N FILTER, THRUSH GLASS PACKS AND DUAL PIPES, RUNS GREAT