I spoke with Jim today at Hawaii Racing, and asked him about the prices. He said a brand new long block would be around $2400, but that he could set you up with a brand new short block and a killer set of heads for around $2000. Go figure. He also said that he can get you a brand new, from Ford, 5.0 (302) SEFI motor, complete, and I mean complete (from the fuel injectors to the oil pan, including water pump, distributor, plugs and plug wires, even the oil, and if it's a stick shift, you also get a brand new flywheel and clutch assembly) for around $2500. You read that right. I would really recommend giving him a call. Just remember to ask for Jim Baker (there are two Jim's there) and to tell him you are a friend of mine (Chris Bower). He can't help you if you don't call. He will tell you how much the shipping is too. It shouldn't matter where you live. Hawaii Racing is a few miles from me, in Simi Valley, California, but the motor would probably be shipped straight from Ford. Call him between 9:30am and 6:00pm, PST.
Take care,
-Chris

------------------
'95 Eddie Bauer F-150 SC & '64 Falcon/Ranchero
-------------------------------------
Are you A.S.E. Certified ? If so, ask me about
iATN...the best tool you'll ever have ! ! And it's
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Thank you again, chris.

But, right now Im saving, so I dont wanna call the gentlemen youve recommended yet, cuz It would be unproffesional of me. But, Im confused now, if I have a long block, how could i put in a short block? Wouldnt that throw off my Transmission. This sounds really great, and I tottaly appreciate all this help from you, and everyone else on the board. I think what im gonna do is get the trck towed back here to NJ, and save up the cash, and have my trustworthy mechanic I KNOW do it. Rather than send it to Readning to the guy dont really know, ya know.

Thank you all,
eddie

 

Eddie- Long block means a complete engine assembly minus the carb/efi, intake manifold, ignition system, water pump, etc. Short block is the same as a long block minus the heads. There is no difference in size.
Take care,
-Chris

------------------
'95 Eddie Bauer F-150 SC & '64 Falcon/Ranchero
-------------------------------------
Are you A.S.E. Certified ? If so, ask me about
iATN...the best tool you'll ever have ! ! And it's
free

 

OKAY,
so the water pump I put in teh engine will still be used in the new one. What else will. I kinda thought a new engine would include all that stuff thats attacjed to the engine. The distributor, the water pump, all that stuff. I knew it wouldnt include a new alternator, or ac or that, but I thought that other stuff was with it. Man, this is complicated. But, i really love this truck.

 

Eddie- That's why the deal on the SEFI 302 is such an awesome deal, it does include all of that. A long block is used to replace an engine that is damaged or not worth rebuilding. The parts that are missing are the parts that generally are not effected by internal engine conditions, and can be swapped from the old motor without any ill effects. It is still a good idea to replace all the tune up parts and the water pump. If you recently put a new water pump on the old engine, and don't want to have to spend the money on another one, there is one very important piece of advice I have for you: When the old motor has the fluids drained from it, remove the water pump and let it soak in a bucket filled with a mix of water and coolant. The reason for this is that if you allow the water pump to dry out, the seals will dry up and crack, and you will have to replace it anyway. Make sure that the fluid you soak it in has coolant in it to help inhibit rust. A five gallon bucket works well for this. Make sure you have and install a lid on the bucket, for two main reasons. First and foremost, coolant is pure poison, but it is sweet smelling and tasting, and will lure animals and small children to it. If they drink some of it, they will be extremely sick and may even die. The second reason is to keep it from evaporating and to further inhibit rust. If you have any other questions regarding this, please feel free to email me at:
pkrwuds@pacbell.net
Take care,
-Chris

------------------
'95 Eddie Bauer F-150 SC & '64 Falcon/Ranchero
-------------------------------------
Are you A.S.E. Certified ? If so, ask me about
iATN...the best tool you'll ever have ! ! And it's
free

 

dude, all i have to say is that PKRWD is the man. Dude, thank you for all this help, I guess youre a mechanic, Im sure, a WELL PAID mechanic. Its nice to find someone as skilled as you thats willing to share all his experience wiht just any one on a chatboard. Thank you, Ill be sure to post back on here once my truck is fixed.

thanx again, eddie

 

I came back to review the pointers y'all gave me, thanx again...

eddie

lemme see if I did the signature thng right, like you guys.....

------------------
FORD F 150 1985, SPORT GATE, RED BENCH SEAT WITH HOLES IN IT, BODY ART TATTOO STICKER IN WINDOW, MEAN BLACK BODY,

FUTURE WANTS:
SEAT COVER
BRUSH DEFLECTOR ON GRILL
HIGHER LIFT WITH BIGGER WHEELS
NE ENGNE

 

Eddie-
It is a good idea to bring the truck back home for your mechanic to do. If you paid 2500 for a new motor, once you added shipping and labor in there you are talking about over 3000 dollars; pretty steep. the best suggestion ($$ wise)I saw here was to find a low mileage replacement from a wrecked vehicle. Find out what engine you have in your current truck and go to salvage yards and these outfits that specialize in totaled vehicles. Make sure they will guarantee its not DOA. It's a pretty tough decision to spend more money on a truck than it will be worth when its finished. Just my opinion.
birddogg

 

How many miles did you have on the old one?

-Kevin

 

Eddie- Someone else pointed out that this site is intended for owners of '97 and newer trucks, so as not to offend anybody, I will not be posting here anymore. I may still visit the pre '97 page and the general discussion page, but not here. If you have any other questions or need help, you can contact me via email at:

pkrwuds@pacbell.net

Take care,
-Chris

------------------
'95 Eddie Bauer F-150 SC & '64 Falcon/Ranchero
-------------------------------------
Are you A.S.E. Certified ? If so, ask me about
iATN...the best tool you'll ever have ! ! And it's
free

 

Chris (PKRWUD), don't let what the two guys said chase you away. The general consensus is that you should stay. I've actually enjoyed this thread. I've gotten an education from it.

If it was in the pre-97 section, I probably would never have read this thread.

 

Thanks Dennis, both here and by email, for your support. You have helped me to change my mind.
Take care,
-Chris

------------------
'95 Eddie Bauer F-150 SC & '64 Falcon/Ranchero
-------------------------------------
Are you A.S.E. Certified ? If so, ask me about
iATN...the best tool you'll ever have ! ! And it's
free

 

how do I get to the pre 97 section?

thanx
eddie

 

Eddie, go to the bottom right hand side of this or any page and click on the "Hop to" button. A list will appear. Go about half way down and you will see "Pre '97 models". Click on it, and then click on the "Go" button. I have been really overwhelmed with emails from people asking me to ignore the idea that folks like you and I aren't welcome here. I would still recommend posting any questions you may have on the "Pre '97" page first, as a courtesy, but if you fail to get any helpful responses there, then you should probably post it again on a more specific page (ie: Engines, Brakes, etc.).
Take care,
-Chris

------------------
'95 Eddie Bauer F-150 SC & '64 Falcon/Ranchero
-------------------------------------
Are you A.S.E. Certified ? If so, ask me about
iATN...the best tool you'll ever have ! ! And it's
free