Ah. I used a little copper grease on my recent plug change. Just a little bit.

The Light duty Mechanic at the mine recomended a little when he gave me the plugs. IDE take his advice over people I don't know, never met and probably sell auto insurance for a living.

 

You'r lucky, you don't have to mess with the anti-sieze with an 09

 

Would you take his advice over Ford's? This is from the plug change TSB:

 

He has an 08, possibly has the new one piece plug in there.

 

It's funny that. Being In the trade myself I've learned to bend things alittle.

For instance Fernie Ford mechanic told me to torque them to 18NM with copper grease. Then I read in the online Ford service thingy that it's 12NM. Then 12 LBS ha ha ha. And Ford are hardly in a position to preach about the correct spark plug procedure.

Anyhow mine are still in, still firing with a load of fuel and boost. Not to mention my 02's are still working. Maybe am the lucky one?

Edit: Yeah Sam I have the non breaky plug thingys.

 

If you have the 08 modified heads, why are you confusing everyone about antisieze usage. Fact remains though, if you replaced with MC plugs, antisieze is not. Needed on the threads due to their coating.

 

Copper grease will destroy 02's is the common theme at the moment regardless of plug type.

So you say the new plugs don't need Anti-seize. Some say you do, Some say it will destroy the 02's. Old man told me the other day that the threads will come out of the head with the plugs unless I use dialectic crap. So who's right then?

From now on I will just Band Wagon it.

 

You're mixing advice for different engines and different years. You need to stick to info for your truck.

 

No problem Jimbo.

Like It was said earlier. Only an idiot would use copper grease on the plugs.

 

My 09 is at 85,000. It is the 5.4 non eco boost engine. I don't know if the plugs have been changed, but looking at the engine and the amount of crap around the plugs, I would say they are original. I will go with Motorcraft plugs when I change them. Just wondering when I should do it, and whether I will need a lisle tool, and anti seize.

 

It's time to change them and you do not need the Lisle tool or the antisieze. The heads and plugs were redesigned in 2008.

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Thanks Bluejay. I am doing an oil change tomorrow. Mobil 1. The oil in it looks real clean, (he supposedly used synthetic in it) but right after I bought the truck the computer told me it was time for a change. I will blast out around the plugs with an air hose and still use some PB Blaster just for grins. I think I will be taking it into the tranny shop for a flush some time this winter too. Unless someone on here talks me into doing it myself, and coaches me through thr process. I just had my F250 done. Probably could have done it myself but I buggered up the linkage running over a stump out moose hunting, so I let the tranny guy fix the shift cable and all the other messed up stuff.

 

They recommend the nickel anti seize because it it's capable of taking much higher temperatures. I bought mine from Napa years ago when I did my first spark plug change. I have used it on subsequent spark plug changes on my truck and other vehicles as well as for many other vehicle related jobs including my brake calipers. I have definitely got my money's worth out of that bottle. By the way, I have use the champions on subsequent spark plug changes and I've never had problems with them as far as functionality or removal. I am not sure what Autolite/Motorcraft have done to improve that poor design, but the Champions have done well for me so I'm sticking with them. I remember doing that first spark plug change and having three break off on me despite following the instructions to the letter. I will not take a chance on the Autolite/Motorcraft again, no way.

 

The new Motorcraft plug is the SP-546.