Is anyone having problems with their EGR sensor? I forget the real name for it . The 2 hoses from the EGR tube go to it and it has a 3 wire plug. and is fastened with 2 screws to the intake manifold.

 

I had a problem with the EGR valve...they replaced it and had to remove alot of carbon build up that was effecting it...so i was told.

 

DPFE sensor. Delta Pressure Exhaust Feedback,it tells the computer that flow is preset when the EGR Valve is open. Depending on position. Mine bit it at 7500 miles, and was replaced.

 

Thanks LoCo f150 & jstang, I have 12000 Mi. So it's probably conceivable that mine has had the Radish. jstang do you know how much the cost? thanks Guys

 

No sorry, it was done under warrantee. I could find out with a quick call tom, if you like.

 

EVO,
HAD MY EGR VALVE CHANGED TWO TIMES TRYING TO CORRECT A ROUGH IDLE PROBLEM WITH MY TRUCK. LESS THAN 20,000 MILES ON MY TRUCK WHEN THEY DID THAT. SOMEONE ONCE TOLD ME THERE ARE 7 DIFFERENT EGR VALVES FOR A 5.4 MOTOR.
DONT KNOW IF ITS TRUE OR NOT BUT THE PARTS #S FOR THE TWO THEY CHANGED ON MY TRUCK ARE DIFFERENT. SO HOW KNOWS??
ALSO THE EGR VALVE SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER THE EMISSIONS CONTROL WARANTY. EVEN AFTER THE STANDARD 36,000 MILE WARANTY. READ THE OWNERS MANUAL IT MAY STATE THAT IN IT. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR TRUCK.

 

THANKS FOR THE INFO EVERYONE. I blew my warranty when I put the blower on.

 

If i can find my receipt, ill let you know how much it costs...i think it was like 100 bucks for parts and labor.

 

What are the symptoms of a bad egr valve?
Thanks

 

mine was a ruff idle and i had changed spark plugs and wires and didnt know what was wrong.

 

I don't think it's my EGR valve because the engine idles fine and runs real well. Its most likely the sensor.

 

Save yourself some money. I have an '87 Ford, 302, 112,000 mi, that had a stalling problem at idle, and when the A/C was started. I took off the EGR valve, and squirted it clean with carb. cleaner, and reinstalled. Runs like new now.
Just ordered a 2002, hope it holds up as good as the '87 !!

 

Howdy,

I've been prusing this board for the last few days in order to better diagnosis the whole bad idle and hesatation issue I now have on my 2001 f-150 (4.6) with 2800 miles on her. Yes, Yes, and Yes this is an EGR problem, seem the pindle get carbon build-up on it and prevents the EGR from opening. The PCM notes this and calls for more vac to get the valve open, which results in an overtravel of the EGR valve. Yes, replacing the EGR will solve the problem, but only on a tempoary basis...as we all know carbon build up happens! Here's something that just may be a perminment fix....

EGR Carbon Filter
Tomco has designed a replacement EGR gasket that contains a fine mesh, heat resistant screen to help prevent rough idle and stalling in Ford vehicles using "Sonic" type EGR valves. These valves have the EGR position sensor mounted on top of the valve and operate the EGR's diaphragm
Stop and go driving conditions cause carbon accumulation in the exhaust passages leading to the EGR valve. When these particles break loose, they can be lodged between the EGR valve pintle and its seat. The result is rough idle and stalling.

Tomco's EGR gasket replaces the original equipment type gasket. The heat resistant filter screen catches these particles before they can cause trouble.

An EGR carbon filter is the best way to correct this condition. A new (expensive) EGR valve may foul again in a short time. Clean the EGR valve pintle and seat when installing the EGR carbon filter.

 

Maybe this is what is causing my slightly rough idle! Now, for a stupid question... Where exactly is the EGR located? I know that it is usually on the throttle body but I have not even had time to study under the hood of my new baby!
Also, what do you guy's use to clean the valve out with???

Thanks!

 

Timbergoast,

If you have the 4.6 it will be attached the the throttle body
on the drivers side. It's mounted high up and may be partially covered by the throttle body cover. Saucer shaped (mine black in color) and has 1 vac line going into the top of the saucer. As far as cleaning, I'm not messing with mine...with only 2800 miles I want my dealership to FEEL MY PAIN and tell me what the problem is. If you do take on cleaning it yourself be very careful what you use. I have seen post on this site of folks using carb cleaner I think the rubber diaphram inside does not react well with such harsh chemicals - same reason why I don't use carb cleaner in my chain saw...(fine rubber diaphrams in the carb to keep the thing running at any angle). I would use a good cleaner, lubracant, protectant (CLP) and a toothbrush.

Luck to you....