engine builders, please visit.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 608
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From: Ruckersville VA
Damn dude, hate to hear bout you having so many problems. I know its no concelation, but don't feel like the Lone Ranger. After spending 15 grand on upgrades and waiting 9 months for my truck to finally be finished, I barely got it home before it went to Hell in a hand bag. First the newly rebuilt Procharger puked oil all over the place. Then it burnt the ground strap off of 5 spark plugs. Next was cylinder 2 losing compression. So after all that money, I ended up with a pile of **** in my opinion. The guy who did the tuning has the truck back now trying to figure out why the engine ate the plugs that lead to the other problems. This will definately be his last chance to fix the truck, cause it should have been done correctly the first time. All I can say is hang in there, and hopefully people like us will finally get a break one of these days.
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,920
Likes: 5
From: Washington
Oiled behind every bearing, now everything has a scuff mark..
Which brings me to managers question. Oil behind the bearing causes what kind of damage or problem?
I also have one person questioning how and why they would polish a forged crank.
Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 13
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From: Princeton,B.C.
I have to say
The finish on the decks can have stains from the previous headgasket and as long as there are no scratches, dents, rust, gasket material etc.on them (clean)then you should be fine. We tested various degrees of deck finishes at Ford and found that a deck finish can be too smooth. When we used a fine brushed finish we actually had more head gasket leaks than with just a standard factory finish. The small low spot "chip" in the bore would depend on where it is located. If the spot is below the lowest area that the rings travel then it won't hurt anything. Depending on severity, a lowspot, chip, (bore finish defect), that the rings have to travel over can prevent a ring from rotating, generate a noise, allow oil consumption, blowby, and possibly excessive uneven bore wear. If we are talking about the cyl to deck locating dowels. Then locating dowels must be located straight so the heads are fastened in the correct location and don't move excessively causing the head gaskets to get stressed and leak. Without locating dowels the heads will move. However you can have the locating dowels in either just the top two holes or the bottom two and you will be ok. Not sure if thats the locating pins you are refering to. If its the engine to trans locating dowels then same thing they are there to make perfect alignment of those two components. Not clear how he could get either of these messed up though. You can purchase new dowels and install them easily. I would remove the mains and have someone that knows how to set the crank thrust (easy) and reinstall the mains for you. I think that should be fairly easy to do and if the bearings look good (not damaged) then you should be ok just follow the service torque procedure for reinstalling the mains. After the mains are all installed the perform a torque to turn which should be between 14nm and 24nm. My biggest concern with your block is the bore finish and of course the dowels.
Now if I new the name of the builder you used,maybe they could use a retired old guy as a shop forman to get the job done right..lolgood luck Klitch
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 13,678
Likes: 82
From: missing Texas...
sorry about the hassle Klitch, and I have to commend you and your patience because I'd have snapped by now on someone and this is why Darrin is building my transmission and I'm going to do the motor myself
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,920
Likes: 5
From: Washington
I'm at a stand still right now. The shop OWNER wants to "warranty" it and have his shop man build it again, I told the manager I'm leery of letting this old guy touch it AGAIN. He proved incompetence and neglect, did not check anything and NOTHING was to spec, let alone matched. I could have done that bad... drunk...
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,920
Likes: 5
From: Washington
Ok, hunting for a block has shown I need to know the code / id tags for these better than the parts guys.
What I had was a 2002 block, I'm certain that was the better end of the 2v blocks mostly because of the fact I had a fair chance of getting a forged crank which I'm not concerned with right now.
Which ID tags / codes am I looking for? the 3L** seems to be mostly 3v engines?
What I had was a 2002 block, I'm certain that was the better end of the 2v blocks mostly because of the fact I had a fair chance of getting a forged crank which I'm not concerned with right now.
Which ID tags / codes am I looking for? the 3L** seems to be mostly 3v engines?
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,920
Likes: 5
From: Washington
Should i have it align honed? I did pick up a long block (unknown condition yet) for $241 shipped. Its about a wash on boring the "new" block vs waiting and sleeving old old one IF and only if the chargeback is uncontested, i will be able to start working the old block on the 1st of next month if i counted my days correctly. Having difficulty finding anyone that can do align honing let alone do it timely.