No problem, - Yea, the trans mount goes out, -cracks the dampening plate shortly afterwards (can be welded). The damper itself isn't engineered to handle every vibration in the drive-train, -so it wares thin or ob-longs. At this point there's quite a bit of vibration transfer to exhaust studs. IF that orange damper fails, splits or bails, then you have a crap-load of vibration going thru the Y to the rear manifold studs. They do sheer eventually, - when your metal to metal under the trans.

All that need replacing , if you catch in time is the mount. I think they're like $26 and very easy to replace. The mount studs/nuts are right there under the trans in plain site. Damper plate is right there as well.

A bad one will have no rubber bushing left whatsoever, -just a rubber flap, -maybe

They SHOULD last anywhere from 125,000 - 150,000 miles. IMO, that's way to generous, - they can go out in half that...

 

well, with double that, mine is still intact hahahaha. but when i do a 5.4 swap and pull the trans and rebuild it, i'll change it out then if i haven't done so yet. thanks for the heads up, i sure would have overlooked that until i encountered it.

 

already have 60 miles on it and no problems still

 

Great! Just thinking, I have some pics somewhere. Your model year w/bad trans mount. Now if I can find them.

Bad Mount -



New Mount/Plate weld -



Damper/Plate -

 

Actually, that was the 98 I believe. The 01 4x4 is the same.

 

Thanks for the info -jbrew


Well, 200 miles on it so far and still no problems. I just went and filled up so hopefully I can see some better mpg's since i cleaned the egr out!

 

I put another 200+ miles on it today

 

Is it getting faster yet ?

 

Faster at wearing down and getting slower!

 

Yea, mine felt that way once, -back in 05. Felt like a heavy slug lol. It had around 200,000 miles, so I was thinking it was just wearing out. Nope! went thru everything, -from the intake manny up, ported /polished that, the plenum and TB. Replaced ALL O2's (not just the front), coils, new injectors, all maintenance crap, replaced some wires , fixed every ground I could find, -some of those were broke and rusted up. Gutted the entire brake system, -everything, then rebuilt it with better parts. I'm not positive, but I'd say it runs and stops better than new. Felt like it lost 2000 lbs somewhere lol. Light as a feather compared to what it was.

So, they can surprise yuh, with a little effort, -or help.

 

Yeah I imagine it would be after doing all that!

I'm not going to bother messing with porting anything for the 4.6, I do have some new motorcraft o2's I bought, but have yet to put in, I have the big 3 done in 1/0, I replaced a brake caliper and flushed the brake lines then and put all new fluid in then. I'm pretty sure for my truck to run better, the valvetrain needs to be addressed.

Then I come to the realization.....why bother? I want to replace the 4.6 with a 5.4 and put this eaton on it and enjoy that.

 

You and me both, well, I'll pick up an L engine, - first, - I have to see how long this 5four will go, - before it pukes. Without having to pull the heads. -If I have to pull the heads for any reason, I'm considering it ready for the fun 5four.

In other words, - it will be sitting for awhile again, - until I get that together lol.

 

Lol, well by the way mine is running, I think it has another good 100k in it. Transmission may have that much in it too!

 

The trans will go the distance with good fluid. The really good stuff , such as AMSOIL. That stuff has performed small miracles inside these transmissions.

But, if they get to the point where they will barley move, you'll need a shift -kit. Like a transgo kit. The "Tugger Kit" I believe. They're about $90. I had to do all that about 100,000 miles ago, - the truck would hardly move it's own weight. It's been fine ever since.

 

well over 2,000 miles, about to do a 500 mile round trip to san antonio tomorrow