Where did you GET those specs?

 

bvI would guess the plug probably either broke out the threads in the hole or spun a Helicoil loose as someone said. I doubt it broke the plug itself, unless you are saying part of it came out - I didn't see that you said that. These heads only have 5 threads in aluminum to hold the plugs, and the plugs are alloy steel. If the plug is still in there, try to back it out with the plug wrench if it will still grab it. If that doesn't work you may need to pull on it with something- maybe very long needle nose pliers? If the socket won't grab it, maybe a nut/stud extractor would grab it. If you get the plug out, get a good light and look down in there. If there is a Helicoil, you can grab it from the inside with a bolt extractor.

I had a Helicoil in two cylinders. Not knowing the insert was there, I was turning the plug back and forth to get it loose. I spun one of the Helicoils in and nearly lost the plug in the head because it went in too far for the plug socket to grab. That was panic time! I had to grind off the taper entry of the socket to get it grab. Then used a bolt extractor to get the Helicoil itself out.

Once you get it out, I vote for a Triton Time-Sert. That's what I did with mine. That will work in a hole with stripped threads, or a stripped Helicoil. Read the long thread on this topic below.

In reading up on the plug blowout issue, I recall reading somewhere that the threads in the engines will take up to 100 ft-lbs (that was not a torque recommendation, just someone's estimate of max torque). I didn't believe it, and now we have proof that's way too much.

 

A mirror is a big help to see the passenger side plugs. I don't see any reason to pull the head, unless an actual piece of the plug or a Helicoil got down in there. Even if that is the case, I would try to get it with a magnet after getting the main plug out - see earlier post.

 

If that was the case, whoever tapped the heli coil cut the seat way to deep. A plug should never thread past the seat

 

loghog - Here's your options and info:

1. Plug torque = 28' lbs for optimum torque for your model. The head threads should be good up to 100' lbs, but it's the plugs porcelain that cracks before you even get that far. So use 28' lbs max for best results.

2. When in doubt use standard Motorcraft plugs. It's the safe bet. The modular engines have been picky in the past as far as plugs.

3. You have to fix that plug chamber. Remove the existing by forcing the plug outward as much as possible. In order to achieve this without removing the head, you'll have to put pressure to one side while turning counter clockwise. What your trying to do is get it catch and thread out. Also a spark plug socket w/insert can help a little, from lifting very lightly and turning counter clockwise. You can also pack the plug chamber w/whatever, - forcing the plug to a higher elevation before attempting to loosen. I've never seen one stuck in there bad enough too where it was impossible to remove.. - It can and has been done.

4. You'll need a Timesert kit. You can rent or purchase your own. Ebay has a few, -along with accessories. Here's some info -

http://www.toolskwik.com/Items/5553?...by%20TIME-SERT

Calvan also has a good kit -

http://www.cal-vantools.com/p-15-for...epair-kit.aspx

If you need a Big Sert, those can be had fairly easily as well. -

http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert_sparkplug.html

You can do this, -don't remove the head, -only as the very last resort. That can get a little tricky. If your off just a little on reassembly, it may cost you a motor. So try like hell to get that existing plug out of there without taking the engine apart.

 

I think you're probably right that the Helicoil was in too far. Not sure if I'm understanding you correctly about the seat. The OD of the Helicoil is the same as the OD of the spark plug taper seat where the plug normally seats on top of the head, so there is nothing to stop the plug/Helicoil combination from screwing further in but the thread resistance. The Helicoil has no top flange; it's the same outer diameter from top to bottom. Basically, while the plug sits against the top of the Helicoil, there is no seat left to stop the Helicoil itself after the hole is tapped. The Helicoil does have somewhat different top 2 or 3 threads that are cut through, which I think is designed so it can be driven into the head with a hammer the last few millimeters. One of the Helicoils I had (#6) was actually sitting up a few mm, which was a safer install, but I believe that led to a misfire. I'm guessing the other one (#5) was driven in as far as it would go, but I really don't have any way to know for sure. The reason I think it was in too far was that the plug was badly burnt when I got it out and was almost welded to the Helicoil at the bottom. Needless to say, I do not have a high opinion of the Helicoils.

The Timesert, on the other hand, has a flange on top that is wider than the thread OD of the insert and sits on the head outside the insert hole, so the plug/insert combo can't go further in. It also has a taper seat for the plug. The Timesert is also locked in place at the bottom threads, preventing it from coming back out. Much better design IMHO.

 

I'm still betting the threads in the head gave out. I don't see why the torque would be applied to the porcelain, since the plug is all metal from the wrenchflats to the threads.

User Galaxy on this site rents the Time-Sert Triton tool kit. I just returned one to him Monday after a repair I did. Much cheaper than buying the kit which costs about $400.

Also, I found out that the Time-Sert Triton inserts and the so-called "Bigsert" are exactly the same on the outside - same OD, 18 mm. The only difference is that the Bigsert is fully threaded on the inside, while the Triton Time-Sert only has 5 or so internal threads. The reason is that the Triton Time-Sert will allow you to use the older type (OE) spark plugs that only have about 5 threads at the bottom. With Bigsert, you have to use fully threaded plugs. I bought some of both types of inserts and measured them, then later verified this by emailing Time-Sert. Either of these inserts will repair a hole that has had a plug blowout or a Helicoil messup as I did.

 

Yes, I agree,- the threads did give out. So ? Your point ?

Well, you may never see, iduno.(?). But yes, you'll definitely over stress the porcelain cranking the plugs down to tight. I really don't care what you think either way. I'm posting a correct fact for the OP's benefit. Not yours.

Regardless, here's a quote from flat rate tech.-

Over-torquing a spark plug can distort and break the seal between the metal shell and porcelain insulator, which causes combustion gases to leak into the spark plug boot

I'm sure I can find plenty more and I'm also sure you can crack the porcelain in the same way.

Yes, we all know he rents the kit. That would be why I mentioned renting one. If interested, the OP would inquire about the details. Don't worry, I know what I'm doing.

If you have a beef with the way I do things, your more than welcome to PM me instead.

 

Quadruple wow

 

wow x5

 

i think he read 85 to 100 inch pounds. my repair book has spark plugs specks in inch pounds not foot pounds. there is a inch to foot conversion chart in the book. the 1st time i read it i thought this must be a missprint. i looked closer and noticed inch pounds instread of foot pounds

 

That would only be about 7-8ft lb

 

Yea, I bet that's what he did, since those are factory specs, = 12-14 lb/ft.

 

 

when changing plugs on the expy last weekend, i was scared taking them to 28ft lbs cant imagine doing 85