Type of oil
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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Type of oil
Just out of curiosity. I have a 1999 f-150 with a 4.6 engine. and 4 wheel drive with 261000 miles on engine. It does knock at start up but goes away after 30 seconds or so and blow a little smoke at start up. I was talking to a couple of friends at work and they had the same issue as i am having. One of them said they put 15w-40 oil in and the knocking at start up went away and they do not use as much oil. What are the pros and cons about doing this? I live in michigan and it does get pretty cold in the winter so is this oil going to hurt or help my issue?
Thanks for any feedback on this
Thanks for any feedback on this
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
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Motorcraft 5/20 is a great oil.
I've seen posted up many excellent wear oil analysis reports even out to 7000 miles.
But it wouldn't hurt to go to 5/30 though with those miles.It might lessen the consumption... bet it wont stop that knock though.
I'm at 140k and I get a half quart of usage at 5,000. With 5/30 nothing.
You could try a 10/30 for the summer.
That 15 weight is really heavy and I wouldn't run that in the Michigan cold weather. Even 10/30 has caused overhead valve train damage in very cold climates.
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I also would use a higher viscosity oil. Castroil syntec 5w30 is the thinest synthetic 30 weight oil that I know of and Castroil syntec 0w30 is the thickest (BMW oil). In your case, unless it is really cold where you live, I would go with a thicker one. Amsoil 0w30 or 5w30, or Mobil1 5w30 extended are all good choices.
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From: So. Texas
I'd suggest using the dual rated Rotella T SB 5w-30. CCS rating has it at 5800cST at -30F which is probably more than you'll run up against. You'll pick up a better and stronger basestock, more detergents to keep it cleaner, and at temp is a Kinematic 11.0 which should stop most oil burning. You can most likely find it at NAPA.
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From: Joplin MO
I also would use a higher viscosity oil. Castroil syntec 5w30 is the thinest synthetic 30 weight oil that I know of and Castroil syntec 0w30 is the thickest (BMW oil). In your case, unless it is really cold where you live, I would go with a thicker one. Amsoil 0w30 or 5w30, or Mobil1 5w30 extended are all good choices.
I'd take Labnerd's advice here.
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Use the search button, enter Fram filter and you will not believe the number of members that have replced a Fram filter and eliminated startup noise. The Fram uses a cardboard anti drainback valve that can sometimes collapes. This allows the oil to drain off while engine is not running, then on startup, it takes a minute to get to the top of the engine. It's known as the Orange can of death for Fords.
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Use the search button, enter Fram filter and you will not believe the number of members that have replced a Fram filter and eliminated startup noise. The Fram uses a cardboard anti drainback valve that can sometimes collapes. This allows the oil to drain off while engine is not running, then on startup, it takes a minute to get to the top of the engine. It's known as the Orange can of death for Fords.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKC2O...eature=related
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From: Northern Va
Thanks for the info!, Just replaced it with a MC. Maybe thats why I have a steady tock sound from the bottom of the motor on the pass side now, started after the last oil change with 5/20 Mobil 1 and a fram filter.
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Joined: May 2005
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My son in law is sold on Fram everything. I'd like to email the page over to him.
I remember hearing this some years ago on this sub- par engineered product.
The article stated it was a corporate move solely to line their own pockets.
Resting on their Laurels, here, you could say...
Nice. <insert eyeroll>
I remember hearing this some years ago on this sub- par engineered product.
The article stated it was a corporate move solely to line their own pockets.
Resting on their Laurels, here, you could say...
Nice. <insert eyeroll>
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From: Joplin MO
Here you go:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html
This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are bonded in place using a thermal adhesive. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap. In practice these seem to leak, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you use this filter and have a noisy valve train at startup, the filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak when they should be closed. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow.
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.