I wish I only put 10k every 2 years. I've put 20k on mine so far. Glad it's been easy so far. Hope the rest is the same. I think the hardest part will be starting the new threads.

 

I have 2 other vehicles 3 if I count the old lady's car. The timesert kit is pretty straight forward. The tapping tool starts off barely bigger then the plug hole then it gets wider to fit the insert. So it goes down the hole and that way its hard for it to go in crooked. Then the insert follows the newly tapped threads there is a tool you install the insert with and it expands locking the insert into place. here's a video of it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ntiy8L97Nco

 

I don't think that's the Ford video, -if there is one.(?) We don't use compression washer plugs. We use tapered. So I'm not sure that's the correct seat cut in the vid. (?)

From just watching the video, I would grease all the chip channels on the tap. Not REAL heavy, but enough so it catches the finer shavings. The ones that might wedge between the piston and cylinder wall.

Nice kit for sure.

 

I think if a tiny bit of aluminum dust did get through it would just get ejected.. I used 3 in 1 oil and I went about halfway reversed and cleaned the tap re oiled it then restarted it with my fingers. Dont know what the deal is with the seat exactly but I think the insert is supposed to roll over on it to..
The 3 in 1 oil was actually very effective holding the chips.

 

at 1:10 there is a note on the bottom that reads :

This operation is the same for tapered seat inserts
in regards to the seat cut



Nevermind. You were talking about plug washers?

 

Yea, I didn't read much, just watched the vid lol. Noticed the plugs have washers. So yea, that's probably correct and the same as you said.

 

Yea, that's the only thing I would be paranoid about, -the chips and shavings, getting them all. 3in1 is better than WD40 IMO because it's thicker. Seems like you would want to keep it from dripping into the cylinder if you can. Drips may contain shavings which is a mix that may prove difficult to extract from the cylinder after the cutting is complete.

I'd use both tho, grease in the chip guides and very little oil on the tap for the least run off as possible.

I could be over complicating it a bit lol. You know what to do anyway. Like I said, -I'm paranoid about those chips. Their like poison lol.
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Right, I see that the insert has the top edge set up to receive a tapered plug. That's a good design. The plug tapper will expand the insert upon torque, locking it in place.

 

Is it a bad idea to use locktite on the insert? I would wonder.. when your ready for your next plug change if the insert would come out with the plug, especially if the plug has been in a while and bonded to the insert. Or is it permanently locked in there?

 

Im thinking the locktight is for the insert. I'm not planing on using it on the plug. They recommended it so I bought it. It will go on the insert to the head only. I'm pretty sure the insert will hold.

 

I have an incredibly powerful vacuum. Carpet cleaning machine-truck mounted. Rigged up a hose from it then blew the hole out with air. If there is anything left in there I'd be really surprised. Confident its clean.

 

That's what I meant, on the insert to head. Definitely not plug to insert.

 

Forgive my ignorance fellaz, but does this happen on the 04-08's 5.4L's too? Even the 09 +? I'm not too handy, so I've been lookin at 2v 4.6's because of this issue and the cam phaser issues on the 3v's.

 

No. The problem with the 04-08 3v 5.4 engines is the plugs break off in the head, they wont come out.

 

Honestly, as long as it has enough power for you the 4.6 would be a better bet.

 

Not a problem so far.

I have 140k miles on my 4.6, '02 F150.

I did the first plug change @ 100k and, as of last year I discovered this plug problem, and it put me on alert. I checked the torque and there was not anything loose. It takes over an hour to do this, but I'm going to check this out every 12,000 miles.


I had a thought about the measely torque that they you give you, allows heat/vibration/pressure to work the 5 threads loose. Just a little wobble and the threads are done.

From what I've seen posted up, this motor is not immune, Ive seen an anecdote of an '02 4.6 spitting one @ 180k.