I remember some time ago I saw the procedure posted on the message board on how to perform the Air Box Mod as opposed to going out and buying the aftermarket brands. Can someone point me in the right direction as to where I can find it or repost the procedure.

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Steve L 1998 F-150 SuperCab Flareside Oxford White 4.6 Automatic 3.55

 

Steve Go to f150 home page and click on Tech Articles and their you will find Air Box Mods


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97 F150 XLT, 5.4, EXTANG,SUPERCHIP, EDELBROCK SHOCKS,
GIBSON SPLIT REAR,
HELLWIG SWAY BAR,
AIRAID, BOSCH +4,
SONY ES-CDX880 HEAD,
SONY ES-XM5046 AMP

 

You can also try this method. I actually did it last night! They both say to remove the silencer but I didn't even both with that...it's not like it would really increase the horsepower. What I did is remove the end of the airbox that goes into the fender. Ya know the box that is in two pieces that holds the air filter? Well I basically removed the right half which allows your air filter to be exposed..kinda like airraid and k&n systems. There was only one problem. When I placed the clamp to hold the left side of the airbox and the air filter on the right, it didn't give a snug fit, so I basically got a huge o-ring and placed it over the air filter and walla perfect fit! All without cutting, modifying, and taking stuff apart like the previous instructions have led ya to do. Plus, if you don't like it you can put it back the way it originally was. I'll take some pictures this weekend and scan them up on my site. I would try my way, if it doesn't work for you then go with the other methods. I'll post a message here when I get the stuff scanned and on a website. Stay tuned

You can also take a look at this site:
http://home.swbell.net/lexus1/mods.html

Blake

 

Blakes right. I used a "drip pan" for a stove. I did have to cut it though. Works great and saves about $150.

 

Blake................Ok now let us know did you notice a change after doing it?

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97 F-150 4.6 auto, 4x2, 3.55 LS, trailer tow pkg, ABM with K&N, Dynomax Super Turbo exhaust.
Oh yeah, it's Oxford White with crome wheels, Legacy shell & custom grill.

 

Thanks, for the direction. Blake I'll be looking for your posting on your procedure. Its sure is nice to have a site with so many people willing to help and submit information on their past experiences. This helps others learn from others mistakes, and profit from their successful acomplishments.

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Steve L 1998 F-150 SuperCab Flareside Oxford White 4.6 Automatic 3.55

 

Did I notice tons of more power? No, not really. It does seem to help off the line and the 2500+rpm, I guess that's because the engine is actually "sucking" more air. I would honestly be disappointed if I played $200 for the K&N, but for the price of a filter and an hours work...it's definately worth it I'll take the pictures tomorrow and slap up a little webpage. Basically all I did was work with the actual airbox itself without removing parts, cutting, etc. like the other directions say to do. I get the same benifits plus if I every wanna sell the truck or make it look OEM there isn't a problem.

Blake

 

Watch those "O rings" guys. I initially did the mod like you have discovered. However, after some time, the O-ring wore a hole in the filter. I found it much better to just go ahead and cut the housing.

Neal

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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust, glass-packs, K&N, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, Optima "T-Bone" wheels, and Clarion In-dash CD player: http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo

 

I just did the "end" cut to my truck's air box, cutting the right side off just about flush with the end of the K&N filter (no sense inviting H2O into it, is there?). But check this out...

If you look real close at where the rubber snorkel passes through the inner bulkhead and fender (two holes about 2.25" dia.), you'll see where a passage way is formed (between the plastic fender liner and the outside sheet metal) which goes toward the front of the truck and ends behind, below and to the outside of the left headlight. That passage appears fairly goodly sized and it draws fresh air from the front of the vehicle. If one to enlarge the two holes (bulkhead and inner fender) to about 4" in diameter, then fabricate a new "snorkel" of that size which would mate to the cut airbox, one might be able to keep the benefit of cool air coming in and the reduced restriction of the larger intake. Just a thought... I think I buy some 4" pvc and go to work...

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'98 F-150 4x4 XLT SC/SB, 4.6L automatic, Toreador Red / Prarie Tan, CD changer, Westin step tubes, Gibson Swept Side, K&N and other cool stuff...




[This message has been edited by JPBigony (edited 07-09-1999).]

 

I wouldn't worry a great deal about water. It would take a lot to affect the engine. Besides, there is a drain hole near the "base" of the housing to let moisture escape.

That's a pretty good idea you have. I often wondered if some type of scoop could be placed in the fender to redirect air into the housing. Let us know how it turns out.

Neal

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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust, glass-packs, K&N, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, Optima "T-Bone" wheels, and Clarion In-dash CD player: http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo