Timing Chain
What truck and engine? And there shouldn't be any slack essentially... the 2v's were a bit known to go through tensioners and guides. Typically a noise will indicate slack in the chain. Do you have the cover off? What do you mean by the top is almost touching the bottom...
Last edited by Toyz; Mar 11, 2011 at 11:26 PM.

Made a hell of a rattle whenever I revved it, right when it reached that slack position before the rpms fell.
A photo would be nice. I know the passenger side tensioner is on the lower portion of the chain and pushes up. But the slack on the top part should be very minimum.
the passenger side tensioner is on the lower part of the chain and during assembly the chain is brought tight across the top. The chain is then brought over and down where the slack is then picked up by the tensioner. If the tensioner goes bad, it allows the slack to roll back to the top portion of the chain. Which is probably what your seeing.
Last edited by Toyz; Mar 12, 2011 at 02:42 PM.
OK Thanks see if this makes sense. The chain is slack and I rotated the crank, the tensioner clicked up and drew out the slack but then it goes back down and the chain becomes VERY loose. the driver side does not get slack when the tensioner releases. There is very miminal wear on the guides, but a new chain is about a half a chain length shorter. Do I need to soak the tensioner in carb cleaner and get the gunk out or are there o rings in it to ruin? Thank for the help
Your chain tensioner is bad. I would replace both of them while you have the front cover off. You could have sludge in the tensioner and/or the oil supply hole but I would still replace both tensioners. Yours have no gasket and are cast metal the later design tensioners are made of plastic and have a bead of gasket material, either will work on your engine. The chains and chain guides should be good for 200,000 miles and more unless there is excessive wear evident on both, if so then replace them as well.


