I'm looking to change my spark plugs out some time in the next few days. I think they are stock plugs but not sure, if they are they got over 100k on them lol. I am just wondering what plugs will get me the best mgp and power. If anyone has any tips on getting this done quick and easy, go ahead and post your tips.

Again it's a 2001 F-150 3v 5.4L.

 

It is not a 3v if it's a 2001. That would be a 2v.

If it is a 2001, go back with Motorcrafts, no anti-sieze on the threads and torque to 28 ftlbs.

 

Hi.

First - you have a 2V not a 3V.

Second - plugs fdon;t give you added power or mpg, everything else being equal ( plugs are 'fresh').

Third. Either OEM MC Platinum (or double-plat) for less $$$ -or- the best money can buy: Denso Iridium IT-16.

MGD

 

That's what I thought too. I called a local shop to see how much they would charge me to get the plugs put in and yeah, . $250 not counting the plugs. They told me it was a 3v but I thought it was a 2V. Thanks for the helpfull stuff.

 

I would not let them touch my truck.

 

Very true!! If they don't know the difference, run!!

 

Why would you get someone to changer your plugs for you?
second if the dealership didnt know 2v or 3v never EVER go there again!

There is no one part of the motor that is m ore inportant than the rest, but spark plugs are a huge part of the system. i Have always liked the e3 dimond fire, they are a lil on the expensive side but no need to cheap out and be changing them again next week(been there done that), And do it your self. It will feel good when your done. You will probably spit lout 8 to 10 cuss words and throw 3 or four wrenches but at the end of the day fixin your truck yourself feels good, Im 19 years old and just rebuild the motor in my ford. It feels good to do it yourself.

 

Don't get me wrong, I've rebuilt a few engines in my time (4,6,8 cylinder). Most of them were pre EFI, I can rebuild a 2,4 barrel carb like no other. I have always done the work on my cars/truck and suvs. I have 2 project cars now, one being a 79 Mustang and the other is a 84 Bronco II. I just ask the shop how long it takes them to get an idea how long its gonna take me (or if there are any special tool needed). I agree with the E3 plugs, I use them in all of my cars so far. I got some NGK plugs for my truck, They didn't have any E3 in stock.

 

It shouldnt take you for the first time more than 2 hours...No special tools needed. You can unbolt the fuel rail from the manifold if you want so you can move it around a bit but you dont need to. Next just take unbolt the cops ( coil on plug) from the intake man. 1 at a time and pull them off the plug, blow out the hole with compressed air and pull it out and reinstall the new plug, put cop back on and bolt it down...Its not very hard at all.

 

I suggest if your going to pull the fuel rail, which is only 2 bolts. To first zip tie the injectors to the rail so they don't come out when pulling up to remove the rail, or you will have fuel all over the place. Zip tie them and work each one as you lift on the rail and they will pop right out of their seats. Before reinstalling, I take a rag and spray it with WD 40 and wipe the O rings down so they go in nicely. Make sure before reinstalling them that there is no debris around the seats and that they go in nicely. Also, removing the fuel rail for this procedure gives you 8 more holes to try not and drop anything or any debris into so work with caution. But it does help with it out.

 

Yea, some people suggest unbolting the rails....I did the first time to make it easier but after that, every plug change ive done i left it bolted up and got the cops in/out no problem.... The boots flex right down into the holes pretty easy...Either or works though.

 

So , I need to do the same thing on a 97 5.4 2v - Why no anti-sieze on the plugs?

 

Because they will work their way out of the threads in the head and blow out. Dont use it, i never have and never had a problem getting them back out. Its the 3v motors that you need it.

 

2.5 hours later and the factory plugs are out (105K miles on them). #2 had so much rust on it I had to scrap the rust out before I could get the spark plug socket on it. They were all gaped at .065, the sticker says .052 to .056. it's done thats all that matters. I put NGK plugs in and gapped them all at .054. The RPMs dropped alot and its so smooth now.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll make sure I don't use it when I replace the plugs.

Anyone know why these V8's blow out the plugs?

(I'm just curious because I've not had a plug "blow out".)