cop misfires

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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 05:54 PM
  #1  
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cop misfires

I had a code read at to local auto store today by a fella that well... seams to really have to think for which shoe goes on what foot

Anyways he pulled the code and said misfire on D, then said no#5 2nd from the back..D was for drivers side . So I bought a cop and went to change it out .Unhook the batt and proceeded to get in there.

I kinda gave up since it was a pain to get at it and I was on a time schedule to get it done. Hooked the batt back up and drove it and i'll continue it tomorrow When I drove it, it seamed to run better but still shuttered after 3K on the tack up to 5k, idles a little rough but the tach sits still with no fluctuation to match the roughness.

2 things.... I found out after reading some post here that D is #4 (back pass side) and I can't remember what he said exactly what it said on the scanner to figure out what it really was.

Now that the code is gone , how long before it shows back up so I can go and get it pulled again to make sure im changing the right one?

Sure hope it's on the passenger side , driver's side is a pain

snow
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 06:54 PM
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Shouldn't take that long, soon as the light comes on.

firing order
passenger side , front to rear , 1 , 2 , 3 , 4
-----drivers side , front to rear , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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Bigdad, that's the cylinder order. Firing order is different, = 13726548
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by snownutt
I had a code read at to local auto store today by a fella that well... seams to really have to think for which shoe goes on what foot

Anyways he pulled the code and said misfire on D, then said no#5 2nd from the back..D was for drivers side . So I bought a cop and went to change it out .Unhook the batt and proceeded to get in there.

I kinda gave up since it was a pain to get at it and I was on a time schedule to get it done. Hooked the batt back up and drove it and i'll continue it tomorrow When I drove it, it seamed to run better but still shuttered after 3K on the tack up to 5k, idles a little rough but the tach sits still with no fluctuation to match the roughness.

2 things.... I found out after reading some post here that D is #4 (back pass side) and I can't remember what he said exactly what it said on the scanner to figure out what it really was.

Now that the code is gone , how long before it shows back up so I can go and get it pulled again to make sure im changing the right one?

Sure hope it's on the passenger side , driver's side is a pain

snow
, Yea D's # 4 , passenger side is allot worse than the drivers. If you have the V8. You need to post engine size, cuz, we don't know.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
, Yea D's # 4 , passenger side is allot worse than the drivers. If you have the V8. You need to post engine size, cuz, we don't know.
..great, I have the 5.4...sorry

So.. Jimmy will call him .. said D and #5 in the same sentence. I see where it would be so if it was a "chevy" ,they chris-cross their cyl #'s....should of log on here first I'll be sure to actually see the scanner myself and jot down the code next time.

Maybe it's time to invest in a scanner...

Thanks for the help
snow
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Bigdad, that's the cylinder order. Firing order is different, = 13726548
my bad, but a code is gonna give you the cylinder number.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 06:05 PM
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Hi all...well the miss fire is back.
The other day a miss fire showed up when I started it to move it to clear the drive.
Missed bad enough it kicked a code and ran really ruff. Went for a ride the next day and no miss?? Drove it on some longer earns and to this day it has been running pretty good.. not like it was in the drive. Actually you can get on it and it runs full out and shifts with no misses from a stop.

So today I took it in to have the code pulled and fuel filter replaced.

Code #po354, D circuit.
Im leaving out of town sat am and Im debating on changing it out. Or wait till I get back and hope it doesn't act up on me tugging a trailer.
So just how much of a pain is #4 to replace?
Also anything I should do..look for while im in there since #4 seems to be a problem area for these miss fires?

thanks
Snow
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 08:14 AM
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Look for coolant or water or residue or corrosion in the plug hole. The heater hoses can leak and drip down there, and so can hood gasket leaks when it rains.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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they tend to get worse under a load so towing might be a bitch. none of the cop's are that hard to change. use a 1/4 drive ratchet with the correct size extention ( different cylinders require different lengths) the 1/4 is smaller and fits in the harder places easier. unplug the wire connector of the fuel injector that is next to the cop bolt you are loosining. once it is broken loose it might be easier to pull off the ratchet and turn the extention and socket by hand. i put dialectric greese on the end of boot and wire connector. you might want to change the plug while you're in there.
 

Last edited by f1504x42000; Feb 15, 2011 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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Im going to attempt to change it out ..starting to warm up 19 now.
I think it would be worth the swap, temps are suppose to go in the mid 30's-40's here in a few days.
With a good foot of snow-pak on the ground, it will make for some wet/ damp foggy air
...and we know how those mis fires love those conditions:o
And your right about pulling, there's a few good hills to deal with where were going .

Thanks for the tips..off to go stand on a bucket and lay across a fender..yeah:o

snow
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by snownutt
Im going to attempt to change it out ..starting to warm up 19 now.
I think it would be worth the swap, temps are suppose to go in the mid 30's-40's here in a few days.
With a good foot of snow-pak on the ground, it will make for some wet/ damp foggy air
...and we know how those mis fires love those conditions:o
And your right about pulling, there's a few good hills to deal with where were going .

Thanks for the tips..off to go stand on a bucket and lay across a fender..yeah:o

snow
I won't work on them out in the cold anymore, - I'll tell friends or family, if you can bring it over here, I'll look at it. Warm up the garage and go from there. I use the excuse, I'm to damn old to be freezing my *** off and it works nowadays lol. My joints fear the cold for some reason. I've done it though, many times like most of us, it always sucks.

Hell, snownut, - it was just 1 degree last night, - crazy cold. How far did you get before giving up on it lol.

Well, swap #4 with #1 first thing. When you pull #4, look for ice around the boot. There will be evidence of ice, if there's been a problem. In the winter, they like to leak thru the hood seal while warming up in idle. That's when there snow covered.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 04:33 PM
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Yea, I notice the truck is backed in your drive an at a pretty good angle from your pic. If it warms up like that in that position, you could be getting allot of water intrusion. Look for water trails or I believe your model has a hood liner, so look for evidence of water coming thru the hood liner above #4.

You'll have to thaw out the rubber seal to keep this from reoccurring. Fun stuff.

Also, once a coil has had a taste of water, it may be spent. Might need to replace it now anyway. Regardless, swap a known good one with #4, like #1 as said above and grease it up liberally. #1 is much easier to work on.

You could have a coolant leak, intermittently. Can't rule that out, so if that's the case, it can be hard to determine. Yea, those hoses may leak in a burst situation. Short bursts when conditions are met. PITA, because it's hard, if not impossible to catch it leaking. What you can do if the heater core hoses are under suspicion. You can cut them back just once before having to replace the hose, if you cut them correctly (not to much). O'Riely's sell special coolant clamps that expand and contract with heat changes, -use these clamps with this repair. These clamps are solid and won't cut into the rubber hose. They don't require much torque and will strip out if you over tighten them. This repair is for the engine side of the heater core hoses. They don't leak at the firewall core connection, it's the opposite side clamp connects.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Feb 11, 2011 at 05:01 PM. Reason: Heater Core hoses.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #13  
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All smoooth now

Got in there and swaped it out with the new one , runs so much smoother.
Also pulled the heater line up and tied it away from the cop.

The old cop and area around #4 was dry. Did find water trails on the pvc line and the cop where it ran down the side to the top of the boot. Also there was no grease at all on the cop ..nothing anywhere

Think your right Jbrew, I think it's coming from the cowl like you said . The one thing I can see is , I have a cowl screen defector and It seals on the cowl screen, but not between the hood and it ..bet my water came from there like you said from melt off.
I'll have to pick up some weather stripping and get that sealed .

Changing #4 wasn't all that bad ..just can't see in the hole . I did blow it out good before install.
I also gooed the grease on it , popped the boot off the new cop and greased the inside of the boot with a pencil . Then put some on the spring 1/2 way up and all around where it connects at the cop. Put some more on the end and wiped out the inter part of the spring end. Last I greased up the boot where it meets the head and the wiring plug.
Wiggled the cop in place , lifted and set again with twist to line up the holes..installed bolt. Yes cop seated to the head.

Along with the cop change I also cleaned the PVC valve and clean the grounds on the firewall and batt terminals with a nice coat of grease too.

One more stop... cleaned the MAF sensor too, popped the horn out , unplugged the MAF and wash it out w/ brake cleen and air.

Along the way I found this... should I be concerned about this oily line? is that a filter in that bulb thingy?


Your right about the cold Jbrew , I have no choice ..truck won't fit in the garage, door to low only can get the nose in
Garage was colder then outside ..I just found a sunny spot up against the house and basked in the sun lying across my 5.4

Wife took it up to fuel it up for our trip and she said, wow much better .. I also added a fuel injector cleaner to help clean them out too.

We will see how it goes, looks very promising sofar ...now if we can keep the snow from melting ...time to play

Thanks all

snow
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by bigdad8214
Shouldn't take that long, soon as the light comes on.

firing order
passenger side , front to rear , 1 , 2 , 3 , 4
-----drivers side , front to rear , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8
Great, number 4 is my misfiring cylinder...farthest back on the passenger side. Driving down the road yesterday at 55 MPH, with the cruise, and felt the truck stumble. Edge CTS told me it was #4. Going to see what a coil or whole set of coils will set me back and go from there.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by bdholsin
Great, number 4 is my misfiring cylinder...farthest back on the passenger side. Driving down the road yesterday at 55 MPH, with the cruise, and felt the truck stumble. Edge CTS told me it was #4. Going to see what a coil or whole set of coils will set me back and go from there.
Goto eBay....type in DG511 look for the ones sold by Global OR Uneek....
 
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