Pre EFI long block for a 1990 F150
#1
Pre EFI long block for a 1990 F150
Hey folks new to the forums! Been lurking a while with much knowledge gained
Long Story Short Bought F150 with 302 Vin N. Need to know if I can use a Pre- 1980 long block in the 1990 that I will be getting for free. I do not know the casting numbers for the new to me engine.
Primarily worried about the sensor at the rear of the intake, which I think is the knock sensor, and the one right above the oil filter which I think is the oil pressure sensor.
Thanks in advance!
Long Story Short Bought F150 with 302 Vin N. Need to know if I can use a Pre- 1980 long block in the 1990 that I will be getting for free. I do not know the casting numbers for the new to me engine.
Primarily worried about the sensor at the rear of the intake, which I think is the knock sensor, and the one right above the oil filter which I think is the oil pressure sensor.
Thanks in advance!
#2
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
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You have to strip it down to less than a long block - the timing cover has to be changed. The knock sensor can be taped into the harness - it doesn't work even if it's installed. But you can drill & tap the old block for it. The older oil pressure sender is actually an upgrade from the 6psi switch used from '87-up. Read this caption & the links in it:
But that's gonna be a LOT of work to put an older engine in. You'd be better off finding a newer 5.0L . Most junkyards have plenty of decent ones from Explorers/Mountaineers, which also opens up the possibility of MAF, EDIS, & OBD-II.
But that's gonna be a LOT of work to put an older engine in. You'd be better off finding a newer 5.0L . Most junkyards have plenty of decent ones from Explorers/Mountaineers, which also opens up the possibility of MAF, EDIS, & OBD-II.
#3
Steve83, thank you very much for your reply, and advice. i have been reading your supermotors pages and posts here for months. Thanks for all your accurate advice.
The older engine has been rebuilt by folks I trust, and it is free. I just have to go get it. Trying to keep costs lower because I am rebuilding/restoring on a tight budget. Cost is my primary criteria.
So for clarity, the wiring harness will work with the pressure sender, knock sensor does not matter. Can you clarify why the timing cover needs changing? I assume to match the bolt pattern for the water pump?
Thanks again.
The older engine has been rebuilt by folks I trust, and it is free. I just have to go get it. Trying to keep costs lower because I am rebuilding/restoring on a tight budget. Cost is my primary criteria.
So for clarity, the wiring harness will work with the pressure sender, knock sensor does not matter. Can you clarify why the timing cover needs changing? I assume to match the bolt pattern for the water pump?
Thanks again.
#4
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
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Did you read that caption & the links in it? The wiring harness will fit the older pressure sender, but the instrument cluster contains a resistor designed for the newer pressure switch. You have to either jumper the resistor to use the sender (best) or install a switch on the replacement engine.
The timing cover is also the back half of the water pump, and the pump for V-belts spins opposite the one for serpentine. So to put your '90 belt system & pump onto the old block, you need the '90 timing cover. If you leave the timing cover & use a V-belt pump, it'll be spinning backward, and won't cool the engine properly.
The timing cover is also the back half of the water pump, and the pump for V-belts spins opposite the one for serpentine. So to put your '90 belt system & pump onto the old block, you need the '90 timing cover. If you leave the timing cover & use a V-belt pump, it'll be spinning backward, and won't cool the engine properly.
#5