At this poing not sure if I should pull the heads and send them off, replace the valves myself along with the timing chains and tensioners or replace the motor with a rebuilt or low mileage one. The main or next question is since the heads gotta come off along with the the timing chains - is it easier to hoist the body straight up out of the way to get to everything or pull the motor. I have the facilities overhead to hold the body up and out of the way but am I asking for more trouble pulling the body over pulling the motor? Also - is it better to replace the valves and timing chain tensioners and chains or send the heads off / replace the heads and the chain stuff or just bite off the 1300 to 1900 for a rebuilt motor with a warranty? Any suggestions from the experienced bunch of yall who has so far been a wonderful world of help.

 

If you have determined that you have a bent valve then remove the cyl head and replace the valve. The timing chains are good for two or three hundred thousand miles,the tensioners I would change while its apart. The one thing I would caution on is if a valve is bent then make sure the piston dome is not severely damaged from the impact. If so a cracked piston is certain death to your engine. Then you may want to go with a used or reman engine.
I replaced both heads on my 97 in my unheated garage during a Michigan winter by myself in around 18 hrs. Some guys here are faster I'm sure but thats a ball park estimate for you. I believe you can find reman cyl heads for around $250-$300 apiece. You can pull the heads and engine without removing the cab.
I have watched repairmen at VO plants loosen the truck cab and hoist it straight up, remove and replace the engine and have the cab back on complete in 3 hrs. But they do this all day everyday and the trucks are brand new with no rusted bolts. Good luck

 

Looks like I'm gonna pull the heads and have them completly reworked and put the rest of the new stuff on them that isn't all ready on there , except for the cams. Also gonna put new chain tensioners and a new oil pump since it is all in there in that area also. I was also gonna go with a 170 deg temp thermostat. Was looking around and also considering a set of ceramic headers. There is all ready a flowmaster exhaust system and k&n filter on it. I'm not trying to built a race car and gas mileage is more important to me over horsepower. Is there any other low cost things to do to this while it is apart to maybe increase the gas mileage or what horsepower gaining things should I steer clear of that will kill the gas mileage. Does one of those throttle body spacers help as they claim they do and any suggestions on a good plug to use.

So - gas mileage more important -

headers for improved heat transfer and exhaust flow- ceramic / stainless / not at all.

throttle body spacer for improved air whatever it claims

170 temp thermo for cooler running temp

plugs - had bosch plats then those new E3 plugs in it now - any suggestions

coil packs - stick with stock ones I'm still using



currently has k&n air filter and flowmaster exhaust - will have rebuilt heads - I'm happy with the 16 to 18 mpg I was getting before but do not want to throw a bunch of stuff on it thinking it will help and I end up with 10 to 12 mpg and 50 more horsepower.



thanks

 

Don't forget a programmer and custom tunes.

 

Definitely a long shot..but did you ever get this fixed?

My truck is doing the exact same thing and I cannot figure it out.. would love to know how this turned out for you.

Thanks!