2005 Expedition
5.4 L 3V 100,000miles

its been sitting in the driveway for a week after breaking the dreaded plugs

I was waiting for the Lisle tool and it works just as described

got lucky and only broke one
I used carb cleaner to spray some plugs, like ive read online, and went slow and the rest came out

But when i went to start it the engine wouldn't turn over
hydrolock?
i'm charging the battery to see if thats it, or maybe something else?
engine started stalling while driving, so i thought coils, but they checked out ok with meter, so i decided to check a plug and thats when it broke, plugs did have huge gap so i thought that was the cause but now it won't turn over

am i missing something?

 

If you suspect a hydrolock pull all of the plugs and then try to turn the engine over. If it is hydrolocked then the fluid that is in the cyl/s will shoot out the sparkplug hole/s when the engine turns over. Now that you have changed the plugs they should be quick and easy to remove. You could also try rotating the engine by hand ( preferred) using a large breaker bar on the damper bolt (clockwise). Are you positive that no large pieces of the broken plug fell into the combustion chamber?

 

no pieces fell in, they all came out whole except for one and its all there
i thought about turning it over without plugs but wasn't sure if that was ok to do

got a jumper pack and still doin the same, sounds like its locked up

damper bolt? which is that? the crankshaft pulley bolt?
I wanna try that, but not 100% sure which one that is

thank you for all the help

 

Yea, don't chance it, - pull those plugs. Unless you know FOR A FACT the battery was down and you trust your work enough. I duno, if it were me, I would have vac'ed the cylinder that the plug busted in anyway.

Pull the plugs and lay a rag down as close to all the plug chambers as you can. Disconnect the battery/ bring the broken plug cylinder to TDC/ VAC. Then stoke the engine by hand and check the rag for gas saturation at each cylinder. Maybe there's a enough of a combination ie, -Carb cleaner/Gas to cause a problem. I don't trust those injectors in that model.

Might want to inspect your oil, - it's probably ok. Not a bad idea tho.

Keep us updated, - good luck!

EDIT: I just seen your post above, If your sure the cylinder is clean from debris, -I'd pull the plugs as described. Hope it's alright, - did it turn over at all/ no crank?

 

I blew everything clean before starting and then again before pulling plugs out.
so maybe some dust in there, other than that, possible pieces of deposit that broke off the old plug ends when breaking them loose.
it cranked once, maybe 1/2 turn and locked up, tried again and it did a full turn and stopped, then again 3 more times and its locked up, maybe a 1/4 turn then nothing
could it be dry from sitting there for a week? or maybe my coils are not firing, this is frustrating, who knew changing spark plugs would cause such a headache

whats the best way to turn it manually?

 

^ Socket on the crank with a break bar.

 

Look at the plug shield you removed using the Lisle tool. Is the ceramic still intact at the end if the electode shield? Thats the piece you removed using the tool. The tool pushes the ceramic down thru the electrode breaking the electrode. The ceramic should still be present and protruding thru the shield about a 1/4 inch farther than the ceramic on a good plug. If its not there then its in the cyl and could be the problem. Another thing is don't force the engine while turning by hand if it doesn't turn with reasonable force and the plugs are out (should be) then you have debris either on top the piston or stuck in a valve. If its fluid ( hydrolock) then you should still be ok as far as no damage to the engine. The damage occurs when the engine actually fires up and the engine generates enough power to bend the rod of the piston that is being forced against the liquid. Just take your time here and be methodicl, check everything out. I don't think you have done any damage yet. A valve stuck open could be damaged but I don't think that was the cause yet. Did you drop any small bolts/parts such as the coil retaining bolts and not find it. You have to be sure anything you can't find after a repair is located as these small parts tend to find a way into areas they shouldn't be such as combustion chambers.

 

the broken one came out all pieces accounted for, cerammic tip pushed thru intact no broken pieces on cylinder end.

i managed to rotate manually, maybe 16th of a turn, then put keys in and tried to start, it turned over maybe twice then seized again, tried again and nothing, locked up. manually turned a little again, tried to start again, one complete turn then seize again

when it turns it sounds dry, doesnt sound like i'm getting a spark

i'm starting to think maybe something with ignition system. gonna recheck coils and connections in the morning, will also remove plugs and see if it will continually rotate with starter

i also went and got a cheap OBDII and it gave me nothing, no codes

when i put the keys in and turn them, everything lights up, then goes off, except for the "enginelight", "battery light" and the "check gage" lights, . does that mean something, or are they supppose to turn off after it starts?

does the starter have enough power to bend a rod or cause serious engine damage?

maybe when i reconnected battery it caused a short and burned something out?

how do I know if PCM is bad? can i check that with OBDII?

hang in there with me guys, we're gonna figure this one out before i have to take it to the dealership and get raped

Thank you once again for all the input
I used to frequent this place back in 2001 when I had my 2000 Lightning
Its the greatest place on earth for FORD Owners

 

Pull the plugs and try spinng it over. You can unplug the crank sensor for no spark and use the starter.

jeff

 

Well if the engine is turning over making complete revolutions then its not hydrolocked. You have to try turning it by hand while the plugs are out or you will only get a short turn before you start compression on one of the cyls. It sounds dry because the starter is not turning it fast enough. Are you sure your battery is ok? Sounds like it's weak and can't more than a couple revs before it dies.

 

ok, got it cranked
stalling wasnt plugs i guess,
it is spiiting out white smoke, smells like fuel

OBD said O2 sensor Bank1 sensor 1
passenger side?
i didn't see a sensor 2 anywhere

I guess that was it from the beginning

or bad COP causing bad O2

 

If the exhaust smells like fuel, you may have a stuck fuel injector. Sensor 2 is behind the cats, sensor 1 is in front of them. Bank 1 is passenger side.

What was the exact code number?

 

P2196
biased/stuck rich
bank 1 sensor 1

everything im reading says its not the O2 sensor
something else is allowing too much fuel in

i took a stethoscope to each injector whiile it was runnig, they all clicked on and off equally
does that mean they are good?

engine is not idling smooth, but i wouldn't call it rough either

what if i didn't have a plug firing, would it do that, or run really rough?

how do i check the mass air flow sensor? wouldn't i have gotten a code for that if it was bad?
maybe my fuel pump is bad? too much pressure?

 

You won't always get a code with MAF, don't know why but have seen it many times. Reasons for raw fuel, injector sticking/stuck, plug not firing, follower off, low or no compression ie (bent rod, intake follower off, bent valve,). Something above going on with bank one maybe. Perform a compression test.

 

doesn't white smoke mean cracked head or bad gasket?
is possible to have white smoke coming out tailpipe with rich mixture?

it doesn't smell like coolant