How do you know if your engine is 3v or 2v? I have an 06 supercab with a 4.6.

 

Yours would be a 2v. I think the 3v was an option for 09.

 

So should be straight forward on the spark plug change? All these post on broken plugs has me worried.

 

You have no worries other than getting to them down in the wells.

 

just make sure you use anti-seize on the new plugs and dia-electric grease on the plug boots. it will make it easier your 3rd time around.

 

You don't use antisieze. These do not have the shank that breaks and you don't put it on the threads as the plugs are nickel coated and antisieze can impede torqueing specs.

 

those are on the 5.4 3v's

 

the 2 valve needs the plugs properly torqued or they will spit

 

2v spits spark plugs out of the head
3v you break the plugs trying to get them out

pick your poison

 

Only on the 10th gens. They eventually added more threads to finally resolve the issue.

 

Man, is there a lot of wrong info on this thread. Your engine has normal plugs in it, not like the 3 piece plugs that are breaking off. The change is pretty much straight forward. If you've changed plugs before, you'll need to know that you have to first remove the Coil on Plug unit which is held in place by a small bolt. You'll need socket extensions and a universal joint to get all of them out. When reinstalling the plugs, do not use any anti-seize to the threads. You will apply a generous coat of di-electric grease to the porcelain part of the plug to seal out any water. The coil will have a long "snorkel" on it. It will self guide itself to the plug via ribs on the snorkel. Make sure you feel it snap onto the plug. Torque the plugs to 28 lbs and call it good. You do not have the short thread heads like the earlier YM engines so spitting plugs is not an issue for you. I'd suggest getting a piece of fish tank hose to remove and start the new plugs. Take it easy on starting the new plugs as you do not want to cross thread one which is easy on the aluminum heads. Since you haven't done it before, figure about 4-5 hours to do the job. It's really not difficult but time consuming the first time. You will not have to remove any of the injectors or fuel rails. You can work around them. Here's a pic of what the plugs look like and the hose to remove and start the plugs.

 

x2, but then if you tighten them down enough you wont have to worry about them shootin' through the hoof of yer truck, i believe in late '03 models they got more threads, from 4-9 is it?

 

Thanks for all the help everyone. I got the job done with no problems. I only needed the u-joint on a couple of plugs on the driver's side. I wish I had a universal joint 7mm socket for the driver's side to get out the screws that holds down the COPs. There wasn't enough room for a 7mm socket and a 1/4 u-joint to get under the fuel rail on 2 of them. Had to use a wrench on those two. It took me about 2 hrs to finish it up. I didn't use anti-seize and I torqued them to 28 ftlbs.

 

Good post dude...........That's 28 in or ft lbs?

 

Foot pounds.