Swaping 5.4
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From: WI
Swaping 5.4
I am swaping out a 5.4 out of 03 f-150 with 170,000 for 80,000 miles. Did some searching but I was just wondering if anyone has any tips or hints. Like best spot to lift motor from. Can you unplug the whole wiring harness to go with motor? Is there a special thinner tool to get trans lines out of rad? Just let me know any tips will be helpful. Thanks.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Beaverton Or.
It will help to have one of those adjustable bar thingy majigers on the cherry picker.
like this
http://www.findmymerchant.com/images/engine-hoist.jpg
The reason is, when its ready to come out, youll need to lift straight up out of the mounts then pull forward to dislodge it from the transmission (helps to have a jack under the transmission lifting). after you have done that and the motor is free, youll need to pick it from an angle like this and with the adjuster, you can do it without picking it up. (I had to repick it)
95% of the wire harness is 2 big connectors on the passenger side. Other than that, disconnect the ac and leave it sitting there. No need to discharge or disassemble the system. 02 sensor wires.. some vacuum lines and a few other. Pretty simple when it comes to the wires and connections. No special tools for the trans lines, spin them off and catch the fluid that seeps out. Take the throttle body and intake manifold off so you have the room to get it out.
And you will need these for the fuel lines.
Other than the other standard things like exhaust, clutch fan, radiator, heater hoses, alternator, starter.. etc the most complicated thing is the shear size of the motor and the tight areas to work in. Speaking of, with the intake manifold off you can reach the dreaded top 2 transmission bolts from on top the motor *wohoo. I would suggest picking up new intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, IAC gasket and Egr gasket. About $50 dollars worth of gaskets.
Oh and pick the motor from here.. worked like a charm and balanced out well.
The rear bolt was installed after the top bell housing bolt was removed. And i put a spacer on it to make sure it didnt thread into the bell housing. The other bolt is the top alternator bracket. They are across from eachother
When your putting the new motor in, make sure you use tape or cloth to plug the runners in the head since the intake manifold will be off, don't want anything going down in there. Before the new gaskets go in and the intake manifold, make sure both mating surfaces are perfectly clean. I used brake cleaner on a rag.
Expect it to be 2 guys 12-20hrs
We did mine in 14, but over the coarse of a few days cause there were days I couldnt do anything.
like this
http://www.findmymerchant.com/images/engine-hoist.jpg
The reason is, when its ready to come out, youll need to lift straight up out of the mounts then pull forward to dislodge it from the transmission (helps to have a jack under the transmission lifting). after you have done that and the motor is free, youll need to pick it from an angle like this and with the adjuster, you can do it without picking it up. (I had to repick it)
95% of the wire harness is 2 big connectors on the passenger side. Other than that, disconnect the ac and leave it sitting there. No need to discharge or disassemble the system. 02 sensor wires.. some vacuum lines and a few other. Pretty simple when it comes to the wires and connections. No special tools for the trans lines, spin them off and catch the fluid that seeps out. Take the throttle body and intake manifold off so you have the room to get it out.
And you will need these for the fuel lines.
Other than the other standard things like exhaust, clutch fan, radiator, heater hoses, alternator, starter.. etc the most complicated thing is the shear size of the motor and the tight areas to work in. Speaking of, with the intake manifold off you can reach the dreaded top 2 transmission bolts from on top the motor *wohoo. I would suggest picking up new intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, IAC gasket and Egr gasket. About $50 dollars worth of gaskets.
Oh and pick the motor from here.. worked like a charm and balanced out well.
The rear bolt was installed after the top bell housing bolt was removed. And i put a spacer on it to make sure it didnt thread into the bell housing. The other bolt is the top alternator bracket. They are across from eachother
When your putting the new motor in, make sure you use tape or cloth to plug the runners in the head since the intake manifold will be off, don't want anything going down in there. Before the new gaskets go in and the intake manifold, make sure both mating surfaces are perfectly clean. I used brake cleaner on a rag.
Expect it to be 2 guys 12-20hrs
We did mine in 14, but over the coarse of a few days cause there were days I couldnt do anything.
Last edited by Toyz; May 17, 2010 at 09:03 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 0
From: Beaverton Or.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 0
From: Beaverton Or.
Oh, one more thing. When you grab it from that steep angle and start to lift.. expect whats left of the coolant in the block (I didnt drain mine) to pour all over everything. Makes a sticky nasty mess. I think there are some drain plugs on the block somewhere that could help.