Okay, I have a 2004 Lariat 5.4L Triton Screw Cab. Got a P0012 code last week, "Intake Valve Cam Timing Over Retarded, Bank One".

I'm going to try replacing the VCT Solenoid, a 50/50 shot I figure at fixing it, but much cheaper than the Cam Phaser.

I need to know definitively, no guessing, which cylinder bank is bank one, passenger or driver's side? Thanks.

 

sitting in vehicle bank 1 is passenger side bank 2 driver. im in the same boat as you but on bank 2 my suggestion is to replace both vct selenoids i only replaced 1 and it runs better but not right yet !also hope you have better luck finding them than i did ford has them on a nation wide backorder! good luck

 

Thanks, passenger side is what I found as well, bank one is the same side as the number one cylinder. Frederick Ford had a VCT Solenoid in stock, $150, I'm waiting on the long Torx driver, #40 Torx, correct? I'm trying an IP40 Torx Plus T-Handle driver, I may have already buggered up the torx using a cheap Pep Boys driver.

The truck only has 35,000 on her so I'm hoping that the more difficult, bank two Solenoid is okay. I've been using 10W-30 oil, now back to 5W-20 because of the oil driven Cam Phaser.

 

people using the wrong oil in those engines is a costly mistake..

 

Source:

Chicken Little has gone wild in this thread!

The basic premise is true; viscosity does minimally effect VCT operation. Also, yes, there are failures of the VCT system. I guess these facts leave room for many to drive way past the "Dead End Road" sign on this topic.

When I got my 5.4L 3V Ford, I looked into this question in detail, even speaking with a person at Ford on the Modular Engine Design Team. There's no evidence I found that a grade 30 has any measurable effect on reliability and the effect on the VCT operation is minimal, if not microscopic. As to failure, if the VCT fails, it fails for some reason other than a grade 30 oil. I never did get into the really insane off-spec applications like 15W40 or 20W50, but in OZ, you will see grade 50 oil used in these engines... though that's hot weather.

The modular V8s do run a very high oil pressure... minimum a warmed-up 75 psi at 2000 rpm with 5W20. And they did have problems with oil filters early on due to this high pressure, so I could see that an excessively high viscosity might be some kinda trouble in the right (err, wrong) circumstance... aka cold weather but then that's what he oil pressure relief valve is for, ain't it?

BTW, I can only speak to the modular V8s, the the Duratec fours with VCT.. they may be a different animal.

I think 5W20 is the best choice for these engines overall but if I ran my engine hard in hot weather, I might consider a grade 30. As for my truck, the oil temp is seldom above 195 degrees, so my 5W20 is running at, or near, 30 grade viscosity anyway. That's probably true for most of these engines and I'll bet Ford knows it.

 

Over advanced/over retarded is almost always a mechanical problem with the phaser itself from what I've seen.

 

That's not what I wanted to hear. But thanks, I'll let you know what the result of changing the VCT solenoid is, which I knew was a 50/50 shot, at best. If it's the phaser, not sure what course that I'll take. That's a big job and I've got lots of others on my list before the truck.

 

Well I can't get the Torx bolt out so I'm stuck. The engine seems to run well enough. A slight miss at idle and at very low throttle settings, plus a nice little tick from the passenger side. I really don't feel like dropping $2,500 on this now so I'll let it ride until I decide to tear it down or pay the stealership.

 

Sometimes I act like I am stupid. Took another look at the VCT Solenoid on Sunday and I was buggering with the wrong bolt, probably a head bolt. Got a #27 torx driver from Sears and popped the VCT Solenoid right out and relaced it.

Quintin is correct, there was no change to the performance or CEL indicating that is most likely the Cam Phaser. I will take it to some Ford Dealers to see what it will cost to replace the #1 Cam Phaser and put an updated PCM flash on. Will probably get the serpentine belt done too as long as I'm being lazy.

I did the brake booster rod adjustment as well, and found it remakably difficult to get exactly the right length. Brakes stay on when too long, soft pedal when too short.

 

Two quotes for passenger side cam phaser replacement:

1) SF - $535
2) FF - $865

For $535 I'll take it in a heartbeat, I'd probably spend close to that to do it myself. I'll report back after the repair.

 

Well, one of the many reasons that I like auto dealers is their honesty. Actually took the Lariat to SF to get the phaser replaced. $1200 when you show up in person. I didn't cuss or swear, just walked out after wasting my time.

Went back to FF where I bought the car. Even though these weeners replace cam phasers at a rate of one or two a week, they apparently can't give you an estimate. And of course it is usually the customer's fault for not changing the oil etc. The service adviser ran an estimate on a camshaft R&R and added $200 to it for the phaser, total is $872.

Fine, she goes in next week. Now, when the mechanic doesn't need all the gaskets, crankshaft seal, anti-freeze etc, I'm sure that they'll deduct that from my bill.

So $200 for the phaser, a few bucks for the gasket, and $600 for 4 hours work. $150/hr, not bad.

 

[Rant]Took the truck in a week ago last Monday. It took them all week to get to it. They called last Monday to say that it was ready. Picked it up today. They apparently managed to replace the cam phaser, it is running better, although a slight miss. They probably didn't get a COP or Injector back just right. As usual, I'll have to go over their work.

The invoice is a disgrace.

3R2Z-6A257-DA Sensor - 260.95
3L3Z-6584-EA Gasket - 25.18
SS Shop Supplies - 25.00
Labor - 534.00
Tax - 18.67

It's a 4 hour job you weeners. 534 / 4 = 133 per hour, nice work if you can get it. They jacked up the price of the phaser from $200 to $260, I guess at $133 an hour, the extra $60 is the time that it took the mechanic to walk back to parts and get it. Wouldn't take a check, even though I bought the truck there, with a check. So they lose 5% off the top to VISA. Fools. And if you're going to charge $25 for Shop Supplies, you might want to clean off the valve cover to make it look like you actually did something.

The next time the auto companies come begging for our tax money bailout, say no! Let them fail, they need to go. New and better businesses will sprout to fill the void left by the big three. They are inefficient and corrupt and they need to go.[/Rant]

 

Ford didn't get a bailout and Ford doesn't own the dealerships. But I agree with you on one thing a lot of dealerships are owned and operated by idiots both foreign and domestic

 

The dealer gets the service money not Ford.

 

In a nut shell, there's always going to be the good shops and bad shops.

Ford didn't get bailed out, - they worked it out amongst themselves and employee's.

I agree, -some need better management and better service reps. Not techs, - the tech's don't get enough credit IMO. They put up with allot more than you think.

I wish I could look up labor times on that, but I don't have any for the three valve.

Sorry for your luck, - that can happen to anyone unfortunately.