Help to pull engine out!
Help to pull engine out! (Done, Thanks guys)
I have my 2005 5.4l V8 ready to pull out, but I need some opinions on how to mount the chain to be able to hoist the engine out. There is a needlessly large bolt on each head which I assume should be used to mount a chain too, but the bolt is about 1/2 so I would need some big chain to be able to put the bolt through. Should I fab up a bracket or does anyone have any ideas? Please help!
Last edited by Shepard69; Apr 5, 2010 at 12:24 PM.
I have my 2005 5.4l V8 ready to pull out, but I need some opinions on how to mount the chain to be able to hoist the engine out. There is a needlessly large bolt on each head which I assume should be used to mount a chain too, but the bolt is about 1/2 so I would need some big chain to be able to put the bolt through. Should I fab up a bracket or does anyone have any ideas? Please help!
Not sure how the new 3v 5.4L is compared to the 99 2v but I used the front alternator bracket (yes, a 10mm bolt) with a few washers on it and one of the top 2 transmissions bolts from the back side since they could thread through. Just had to use a shorter bolt (in my case spacers) so it doesnt thread into the bell housing. Balances out nicely if you use the bolts opposite each other. Be careful bolting into aluminum.

And yes, the angle is very steep. I had to break it loose from the transmission and mounts then re adjust the chain to come out at this angle

and there still wasnt enough room. Would have never came out without taking off the intake plenum.

And yes, the angle is very steep. I had to break it loose from the transmission and mounts then re adjust the chain to come out at this angle

and there still wasnt enough room. Would have never came out without taking off the intake plenum.
Thanks Toyz, that exact config came to me in the middle of the night. I wasn't thinking about the threads going right through on the block. Got it set up now.
And what a fight with the starter and exhaust stud bolts!
PS - Replaced engine due to a bad wrist pin! Makes me wonder what kind of oil the previous owner was running!
And what a fight with the starter and exhaust stud bolts!
PS - Replaced engine due to a bad wrist pin! Makes me wonder what kind of oil the previous owner was running!
Last edited by Shepard69; Apr 4, 2010 at 11:14 AM.
Not sure how the new 3v 5.4L is compared to the 99 2v but I used the front alternator bracket (yes, a 10mm bolt) with a few washers on it and one of the top 2 transmissions bolts from the back side since they could thread through. Just had to use a shorter bolt (in my case spacers) so it doesnt thread into the bell housing. Balances out nicely if you use the bolts opposite each other. Be careful bolting into aluminum.

And yes, the angle is very steep. I had to break it loose from the transmission and mounts then re adjust the chain to come out at this angle

and there still wasnt enough room. Would have never came out without taking off the intake plenum.

And yes, the angle is very steep. I had to break it loose from the transmission and mounts then re adjust the chain to come out at this angle

and there still wasnt enough room. Would have never came out without taking off the intake plenum.
Trending Topics
You wanna know what I use to hook engines to the hoist?
Honestly?
Seriously?
Seat belts. I cut the webbing out of old seat belt retractors, loop the belt around the exhaust manifolds, tie knots in it and go. The breaking strength for automotive seat belts is something in the neighborhood of 6000 lbs.
It's way more flexible than using chains and bolts and brackets and such. And more than strong enough.
On some engines, modular Fords in particular, it can be very difficult if not impossible to "properly" connect chains to the engine. Most times Ford calls for special brackets that install in the valley of the engine or on the side of the cylinder heads to hook chains to. I do this for a living, and I don't own any of those brackets and I sure as hell ain't gonna buy them when my cheap *** improvised engine strap/seat belts work fine.
Just something to consider. In the absence of seat belts, hooking the chains to the block as shown in the pics above by Toyz works too.
Honestly?
Seriously?
Seat belts. I cut the webbing out of old seat belt retractors, loop the belt around the exhaust manifolds, tie knots in it and go. The breaking strength for automotive seat belts is something in the neighborhood of 6000 lbs.
It's way more flexible than using chains and bolts and brackets and such. And more than strong enough.
On some engines, modular Fords in particular, it can be very difficult if not impossible to "properly" connect chains to the engine. Most times Ford calls for special brackets that install in the valley of the engine or on the side of the cylinder heads to hook chains to. I do this for a living, and I don't own any of those brackets and I sure as hell ain't gonna buy them when my cheap *** improvised engine strap/seat belts work fine.
Just something to consider. In the absence of seat belts, hooking the chains to the block as shown in the pics above by Toyz works too.
Thanks all! The heart is out and doner heart back in. (the engine also came out level and didn't need to be tilted)
Quintin - I was going to use lumber truck tie down straps, much like a seat belt, but I was unsure about straping to the exhaust manifold. If I do this again, I'll use a seatbelt and have a laugh!
Quintin - I was going to use lumber truck tie down straps, much like a seat belt, but I was unsure about straping to the exhaust manifold. If I do this again, I'll use a seatbelt and have a laugh!
Leave it to the professional mechanics to come up with the best ideas. I totally agree with the seat belt idea, and even with tying knots in 'em. Have you ever tried to get a knot out of a seat belt? Difficult to impossible. Just one question though Quintin. What do the car owners say about the grease marks on their seat belts and no more buckle?
Just tell 'em it was that way when the car came in!
Just tell 'em it was that way when the car came in!
What do you guys think about pulling the tranny with the motor? I have a 4.6 Romeo with 56m on it ready to go in my 2001 SCREW. (old one has 190) I was thinking about pulling the front(grill,radiator etc.) off and pulling the tranny with the old motor. Bolting the tranny up to the new/used motor and reinstalling it. Any thoughts? Would unbolting it from the old motor and leaving it in be easier? Thanks.
Leave it to the professional mechanics to come up with the best ideas. I totally agree with the seat belt idea, and even with tying knots in 'em. Have you ever tried to get a knot out of a seat belt? Difficult to impossible. Just one question though Quintin. What do the car owners say about the grease marks on their seat belts and no more buckle?
Just tell 'em it was that way when the car came in!

Just tell 'em it was that way when the car came in!


What do you guys think about pulling the tranny with the motor? I have a 4.6 Romeo with 56m on it ready to go in my 2001 SCREW. (old one has 190) I was thinking about pulling the front(grill,radiator etc.) off and pulling the tranny with the old motor. Bolting the tranny up to the new/used motor and reinstalling it. Any thoughts? Would unbolting it from the old motor and leaving it in be easier? Thanks.
I have one of these:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=938411
takes care of the angle and the end of each chain has a bracket on it. I wish I'd seen the seat belt idea before I bought it.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=938411
takes care of the angle and the end of each chain has a bracket on it. I wish I'd seen the seat belt idea before I bought it.
Ask me no questions, I'll tell you no lies. 
It'll come out all together if you really wanted to pull it that way. There's nothing especially hard though about leaving the trans in the truck and unbolting it from the engine. The only time I pull them as a complete assembly is if the engine is locked slam up and I can't turn it by hand to get to the torque converter nuts.

It'll come out all together if you really wanted to pull it that way. There's nothing especially hard though about leaving the trans in the truck and unbolting it from the engine. The only time I pull them as a complete assembly is if the engine is locked slam up and I can't turn it by hand to get to the torque converter nuts.






