i am seriously considering installing some thumper cams in my truck like bigbuckmuddah did and curious how some members who have done this might have some comments or feelings about this mod. preferrably ones that have done it.

so my main question is how is drivability changed?

does it hurt off idle acceleration? (currently they spin with 35's)

does it really pull at top end?

how bad is towing affected?

current mods include long tube headers, high flow cats, 2.5" cherry bomb exhaust for now, sct tuner, cai, gears.

future mods include dual exhaust prob with 2.25" dynomax bullets x-piped, ported heads (factory), possibly thumper cams, intake manifold, converter changed for higher stall.

 

well maybe a blower is in the works but no one has anything for this?

 

I cant help ya with them cams.
But I was wandering why you would put 2.25 exhaust on it?

Phil

 

take a look at the dyno sheets posted on comps website...

 

phil- i was thinking dual 2.25 pipes with the cams so i wouldnt loose backpressure and hurt torque. if i go blower then it would prob be dual 2.5" pipes. as far as i know it should flow enough right?

tarajerame- i saw the dyno results but my concern is real life driving. how is all that affected? the reason i might do a blower is im not really willing to lose low end driveability but absolutely LOVE the sound of some loping cams!

 

why not do a blower and cams???


the other thing you need to consider is what future mods you are going to add and ensure they are going to work together...

 

Yes, and if your planing on a blower you need blower cams!

2.25 will work but I would just go for 2.5 from the get go.
I believe that back-presser thing is mostly a myth anyway.
I was running true duals(2.5) right from the start,,long before I ever added a blower and didn't notice any loos of torque.

Phil

 

i coulddo both but they would have to be blower friendly cams. they wouldnt have that lopey 70's muscle sound. and that would top my budget which the wifey would be pissed.

and yes, i agree. im only trying to get my truck more healthy. i am planning on putting any big dollar-high horsepower into my project car which is a 96 cobra. that will be the beast. truck is daily driver and occasional romper.

 

the more i think about it-that would be awesome but much more costly. would that hurt driveability (and the wifes fun budget). i have a toy for all that as the truck is a daily driver.

and the exhaust forum agree's. i probably will go 2.5 duals first that way i have the sound i need and whatever mod i go i am ready for it. not holding it back! thanks

 

i think its worth mentioning that you shouldnt run cams without replacing the valve springs as well. I know alot of cams state you can get away with stock springs and you MIGHT. but with a blower on there do you really want to risk having valves float at higher RPMs? BOOM!

 

true

 

If you don't mind a different opinion, here goes.

I have an 05 Mustang that I put your engine into. First to do that, as far as I know. I got the engine from a wrecked 05 F150 and built it using forged rods, pistons, etc... I had MMR build a set of stage 3 heads and bought their custom stage 2 "turbo cams".

Here's a link to my dyno sheet with a custom intake manifold (also made by MMR, which I'm going to sell).
http://cabuzzi.net/website/images/car/dyno/54_dyno.jpg

As you can see, the power drops off at 5000rpm like a rock. This is because the cams were built for a solid air charge in the upper end of the power band. I don't really mind, as I built the engine for twin turbos (which just don't happen to be on yet).

So pick your cams with your end goals in mind. There's no problem with getting supercharger "optimized" cams, so long as you're willing to take a little power hit up top until you get the blower on.

Also, the cams with the "lope" are usually cams with a lot of overlap (the period of time the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time). The more overlap, the more "lope". This is usually the type of cam you want for a normally aspirated car. If you have a lot of overlap on a supercharged/turbocharged engine, you'll blow all your boost in one side and right out the other. That doesn't mean they won't make more power than stock cams... it just means that they're not "optimized" for boost. Don't expect a miracle if you go for a loping cam then put a supercharger on.

 

a turbo would be a big choice for a mustang. which i just happen to have a 96 cobra dying to get one! but not the truck. at least not yet...

on the dyno you had, is that with the turbo? if it is, i makes 7 more hp and about 28 less lbs./torque than mine currently does. probably not what i need.

on the cams, i originally wanted n/a thumper cams or a supercharger. the idea came up on cams and blower which would be blower freindly cams based on what type i wanted to end up with. still dont know. turbo could very well be an option (just not sure on a truck with 35's).

you have a good point, supercharger cams untill i get the charger. all in all just need to figure out what major mod it will be. it seems either way i will have cams but what their main function will be is where i am stuck.

 

im going with the frpp hot rod cams you dont have to have springs, or cam phaser lock outs check out these guys they are going to be installing mine
http://gearheadsperformance.com/gear...3/Default.aspx
Give any 3-valve 4.6l or 5.4L a lopey idol reminiscent of 1960's muscle cars, no one will believe it's a modular engine

The most powerful cams available that are safe with production valvetrain.

Currently being used in Rough Rider off-road race trucks

Engineered by the same designers of the stock camshafts

No other cam manufacture has the aggressive sound and durability these cams offer

Upgrade for the 2005-09 Mustang GT 4.6L 3V engine

Increases lift from the stock 11mm to 12mm

Duration at .050", intake 221 degrees, exhaust 240 degrees, lobe separation 110 degrees

Compatible with production springs, followers and lash adjusters up to 6800rpm

50hp gain(SAE-J1349)with the stock intake and M-6049-463P CNC heads at 6500 rpm. 30hp gain without CNC heads. (with long tube headers and M-9603-GTB cold air kit)

Requires custom calibration to achieve optimized performance

Featured in M-6007-A463NA crate engine

 

Turbos are good for just about anything (when sized properly), and this is coming from a ProCharger fan!

No, turbos are not on yet. I'm getting a set of twin 61mm T3/T4 hybrids with an as-of-yet undetermined exhaust housing size. The cams are specifically made for a turbocharged engine, which is why they're dropping off at 5000rpm like they are.

What (if anything) have you done to your truck? I know they dyno I'm on reads lower than most (plus, I'm at 6400ft.... good ol' Colorado Springs), but I was hoping to make more since I'm running stage 3 heads and an aftermarket intake. (Pics here)

Not sure what to tell you here. Cams are so dependent on what you're going to do with induction. There are cams for every option, not to mention varying degrees of aggressiveness (with an inversely proportional loss of streetability ). Like I said, I would really decide what you want. With 35s, I would almost say a positive-displacement blower would be a great mod for you. Unless you're doing the work yourself, the cams can be an expensive swap. Fortunately, timing on our engines is pretty easy, but you still have to pull the front cover to do it right, and that can get pretty pricey if you have a shop do it. A positive-displacement blower will probably get rid of your desire for cams, too.

Personally, a ProCharger D1SC and a set of Stage 2ish supercharger cams would be my choice... but that's gonna set you back probably 6-8k or so.

Exactly. It's a conundrum that affects most. This might make you feel better... the stock cams love turbos. If you're going with a turbo and are not looking for tons of power (and the drivetrain upgrades that come along with said power), then the stock cams work great. Myself, I went with the turbo cams because I'm looking for about 700 RWHP on pump gas and closer to 1000 on E85, once I get the 9" rear end funded.