5.4 3v cams-- thumpers
Personally (and this is just my humble opinion), any cams that don't require lock outs or limiters aren't worth the time or money.
Comp Cams have a great set of cams that have VCT limiters to keep the cams from slapping around. Those are a great "middle ground". Livernois also sells a set of semi-limiters as well, if you already have a particular set of non-VCT friendly cams in mind.
If you're going to go with cams, I'd go all out, though. VCT is great for driveability, but not for power. Choose the cam that compliments your end goals (N/A, supercharger, turbocharger), choose your power level and streetability, then start looking around for the cams that meet your needs. You can even call Comp and tell them what you want and they should be able to help you spec something out.
I would almost bet you money that the cams you're talking about do not get you 30 RHWP. Just the fact that is says "Requires custom calibration to achieve optimized performance" tells me that much. You can get a good 15-20 RWHP out of an aggressive dyno tune by a professional. Any cam worth 30 HP is going to **** the VCT system off. Period.
If you've ever tuned a vehicle (I do mild tuning myself, but have a pro tune for optimum power on a dyno), you'd know that the PCM will adjust for the air/fuel ratio "skew" that different cams create. You may be able to add a little timing for the cams, but you can do that on a stock engine anyways (the 15-20 HP I mentioned earlier).
Comp Cams have a great set of cams that have VCT limiters to keep the cams from slapping around. Those are a great "middle ground". Livernois also sells a set of semi-limiters as well, if you already have a particular set of non-VCT friendly cams in mind.
If you're going to go with cams, I'd go all out, though. VCT is great for driveability, but not for power. Choose the cam that compliments your end goals (N/A, supercharger, turbocharger), choose your power level and streetability, then start looking around for the cams that meet your needs. You can even call Comp and tell them what you want and they should be able to help you spec something out.
I would almost bet you money that the cams you're talking about do not get you 30 RHWP. Just the fact that is says "Requires custom calibration to achieve optimized performance" tells me that much. You can get a good 15-20 RWHP out of an aggressive dyno tune by a professional. Any cam worth 30 HP is going to **** the VCT system off. Period.
If you've ever tuned a vehicle (I do mild tuning myself, but have a pro tune for optimum power on a dyno), you'd know that the PCM will adjust for the air/fuel ratio "skew" that different cams create. You may be able to add a little timing for the cams, but you can do that on a stock engine anyways (the 15-20 HP I mentioned earlier).
im going with the frpp hot rod cams you dont have to have springs, or cam phaser lock outs check out these guys they are going to be installing mine
http://gearheadsperformance.com/gear...3/Default.aspx
Give any 3-valve 4.6l or 5.4L a lopey idol reminiscent of 1960's muscle cars, no one will believe it's a modular engine
The most powerful cams available that are safe with production valvetrain.
Currently being used in Rough Rider off-road race trucks
Engineered by the same designers of the stock camshafts
No other cam manufacture has the aggressive sound and durability these cams offer
Upgrade for the 2005-09 Mustang GT 4.6L 3V engine
Increases lift from the stock 11mm to 12mm
Duration at .050", intake 221 degrees, exhaust 240 degrees, lobe separation 110 degrees
Compatible with production springs, followers and lash adjusters up to 6800rpm
50hp gain(SAE-J1349)with the stock intake and M-6049-463P CNC heads at 6500 rpm. 30hp gain without CNC heads. (with long tube headers and M-9603-GTB cold air kit)
Requires custom calibration to achieve optimized performance
Featured in M-6007-A463NA crate engine
http://gearheadsperformance.com/gear...3/Default.aspx
Give any 3-valve 4.6l or 5.4L a lopey idol reminiscent of 1960's muscle cars, no one will believe it's a modular engine
The most powerful cams available that are safe with production valvetrain.
Currently being used in Rough Rider off-road race trucks
Engineered by the same designers of the stock camshafts
No other cam manufacture has the aggressive sound and durability these cams offer
Upgrade for the 2005-09 Mustang GT 4.6L 3V engine
Increases lift from the stock 11mm to 12mm
Duration at .050", intake 221 degrees, exhaust 240 degrees, lobe separation 110 degrees
Compatible with production springs, followers and lash adjusters up to 6800rpm
50hp gain(SAE-J1349)with the stock intake and M-6049-463P CNC heads at 6500 rpm. 30hp gain without CNC heads. (with long tube headers and M-9603-GTB cold air kit)
Requires custom calibration to achieve optimized performance
Featured in M-6007-A463NA crate engine
Last edited by cabuzzi; Mar 13, 2010 at 11:51 PM.
Confused. Are you talking about putting these in a Mustang or a truck?
Well, don't get me wrong... they're not bad cams. I just really doubt they'll get you get 30 RWHP on their own merit. The tune will be roughly half of that... and you can get that out of a tune alone.
Do you already have a tuner for your truck? Are you running an aftermarket tune? If you've got the money and are set on these cams, I'd say get the car dyno tuned by a reputable tuner first. Get a before and after to see what the tune alone got you. Then, install the cams and have the same tuner check the air/fuel ratio an optimize (if there anything left to optimize).
Betcha it won't be 30 HP.
Do you already have a tuner for your truck? Are you running an aftermarket tune? If you've got the money and are set on these cams, I'd say get the car dyno tuned by a reputable tuner first. Get a before and after to see what the tune alone got you. Then, install the cams and have the same tuner check the air/fuel ratio an optimize (if there anything left to optimize).
Betcha it won't be 30 HP.
Do you have the 4.6 or the 5.4?
It's an aftermarket aluminum intake made by MMR specifically for the 5.4L 3v V8. By itself, it took a lot of work to "get along" with the stock cooling system. I had put a lot of time/money into this intake. I wanted a bigger intake that would let me use the stock cooling system, so I swapped to the JPC intake (which required a hood change, too). I got about 18 more HP/TQ out of the JPC, but it was made for the Mustang's cooling system.
The intake comes complete with all the fittings needed to connect to the Mustang's cooling system, so a little work will be needed to make it work with the F150s (not much, but just letting you know what you'll be getting into).
This bolts directly to the heads. No IMRC plates needed (so that'll need to be turned off in the tune and the spark timing moved to the MBT spark table). But it runs great. Nice flow, looks awesome.
The flange is made for the GT500 throttle body, so I'm not sure if you can make that work with your truck. I'm pretty sure you can, though.
I needed to use an alternator from an 04 Crown Vic (non-police model), but I'm including a brand new one. You'll need to rotate the housing 1/3 of the way around. I'm good at it, but I'd advise having an alternator shop do it for you. I'd be surprised if they even charged you for it.
Here are some pics:



The intake comes complete with all the fittings needed to connect to the Mustang's cooling system, so a little work will be needed to make it work with the F150s (not much, but just letting you know what you'll be getting into).
This bolts directly to the heads. No IMRC plates needed (so that'll need to be turned off in the tune and the spark timing moved to the MBT spark table). But it runs great. Nice flow, looks awesome.
The flange is made for the GT500 throttle body, so I'm not sure if you can make that work with your truck. I'm pretty sure you can, though.
I needed to use an alternator from an 04 Crown Vic (non-police model), but I'm including a brand new one. You'll need to rotate the housing 1/3 of the way around. I'm good at it, but I'd advise having an alternator shop do it for you. I'd be surprised if they even charged you for it.
Here are some pics:
?
the more i think about it-that would be awesome but much more costly. would that hurt driveability (and the wifes fun budget)
. i have a toy for all that as the truck is a daily driver.
and the exhaust forum agree's. i probably will go 2.5 duals first that way i have the sound i need and whatever mod i go i am ready for it. not holding it back! thanks
. i have a toy for all that as the truck is a daily driver. and the exhaust forum agree's. i probably will go 2.5 duals first that way i have the sound i need and whatever mod i go i am ready for it. not holding it back! thanks
Sorta the reason i am leaning towards a blower.
As for the turbo, im keeping the long tubes i have so the toy car might be a turbo freindly ride.
Last edited by 05crewzer; Mar 15, 2010 at 11:34 PM.
I have been calling around to some shops that deal with these modular motors and I'm really interested in the blow by racing stage one cams they are billet aluminum they keep your low end ta and have great power over the entire rpm range they also said the frpp cams are a good cam


