Help: need maintenance/service guidance for my 2000
My 2000 F150 5.4L V8 4x4 turned 90,000 miles, and I want to get a full service maintenance job done. The only thing I have ever done to the vehicle was a brake job.
This is a list of stuff I want to get done, but any comments or input to add to the list is appreciated. Thanks.
Here is a picture of my baby:

This is a list of stuff I want to get done, but any comments or input to add to the list is appreciated. Thanks.
- Replace fuel filter
- Change transmission fluid
- Change transfer case fluid
- Change front/rear differential fluid (use synthetic oil?)
- Flush radiator/ change coolant
- Replace spark plugs and wires
- Replace PCV
- Change drive belt
- Check or Replace hoses?
- Check brakes
- Lubricate any fittings
- Check ball joints?
ANYTHING ELSE??
Here is a picture of my baby:

Hello & Good Morning to you sir !
Oh My, that's a purty good list!
I would add/modify:
- replace front O2 sensors.
- replace power steering fluid
- replace brake fluid
- Gatorback serpentine belt
- check/inspect fornt-end sterring/suspension components
- wash / detail truck - yer headlights could use some tlc with Plast-x, lol ( j/k)
Please note - yer plugs have no wires. However, be careful with the COPS. Use dielectric grease ( there is a lot of info on here posted by Jbrew on the proper care & feeding of COPS).
R&R Plugs: 28ft-lbs, DRY. Yes - I was surprised too, lol. Denso IT16's are terrrific plugs, but if going stock ensure that they are the OEM Motorcraft units only.
Use synthetics in the diffs & transfer case, MC semi-synth 5w-20 in the engine, with a MC FL820-S filter.
Good luck! Be safe!
Cheers!

MGD v2.1c
Oh My, that's a purty good list!
I would add/modify:
- replace front O2 sensors.
- replace power steering fluid
- replace brake fluid
- Gatorback serpentine belt
- check/inspect fornt-end sterring/suspension components
- wash / detail truck - yer headlights could use some tlc with Plast-x, lol ( j/k)
Please note - yer plugs have no wires. However, be careful with the COPS. Use dielectric grease ( there is a lot of info on here posted by Jbrew on the proper care & feeding of COPS).
R&R Plugs: 28ft-lbs, DRY. Yes - I was surprised too, lol. Denso IT16's are terrrific plugs, but if going stock ensure that they are the OEM Motorcraft units only.
Use synthetics in the diffs & transfer case, MC semi-synth 5w-20 in the engine, with a MC FL820-S filter.
Good luck! Be safe!
Cheers!

MGD v2.1c
Last edited by MGDfan; Feb 18, 2010 at 09:34 AM.
How much $$$ do you want to spend? Don't forget the radiator hoses. Your truck has Coil on Plug ignition so I would replace the COP boots. How much $$$ do you want to spend? Rotate tires? Check the condition of the pinch seam at he bottom of your doors and tail gate. Have them oiled or protected so they do not rust like the rest of the trucks eventually do. Check your lift kit for loose bolts. Lube all the hinges.
.
.
Oh yeah, keep it coming.
I will spend what it takes to do a complete maintenance. I have had the truck 10 years, and it has been very good to me, so I can't complain about putting some maintenance $$ back into her.
BTW, the headlights look opaque because of the way the light is hitting the front in the pic.
I will spend what it takes to do a complete maintenance. I have had the truck 10 years, and it has been very good to me, so I can't complain about putting some maintenance $$ back into her.
BTW, the headlights look opaque because of the way the light is hitting the front in the pic.
For what you are going to pay for COP boots, I'd order a whole set of cops on Ebay. Save the originals for spares.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-IGNITION-COI...item58837e37c6
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-IGNITION-COI...item58837e37c6
I have done one or 2 <grin>. No really, I take care of that on a regular basis.
Trending Topics
one thing alot of people over look but is pretty important i think, open up all your doors, that black rubber seal that runs around the entire outer edge (some on door and cab) hit that with armorall and wipe it down real good, should look wet like a tire would with tireshine. that thing'll dry out after so many years unserviced.
one thing alot of people over look but is pretty important i think, open up all your doors, that black rubber seal that runs around the entire outer edge (some on door and cab) hit that with armorall and wipe it down real good, should look wet like a tire would with tireshine. that thing'll dry out after so many years unserviced.
Here's the owners service guide for yer truck. I'd start at about 60,000 miles and see what you've done and haven't done.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../00f12og5e.pdf
I'd also get a MotorVac on the injection system and run a dose of Auto-Rx thru it to clean it out. I do all of mine every 75,000 as normal maintenance.
Well, that was dumb. I posted the Owners Manual but you might want it so here's the maintenance book:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../00a00mg3e.pdf
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../00f12og5e.pdf
I'd also get a MotorVac on the injection system and run a dose of Auto-Rx thru it to clean it out. I do all of mine every 75,000 as normal maintenance.
Well, that was dumb. I posted the Owners Manual but you might want it so here's the maintenance book:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../00a00mg3e.pdf
Last edited by Labnerd; Feb 18, 2010 at 10:26 PM.
Labnerd, thanks. That is exactly what I did with the maintenance book. I have an appointment to bring in the truck next Wed. I plan on bringing in a spreadsheet with all the "stuff" I want done.
Throttle body cleaning? Just did mine, noticed improvement when idling, starting and shifting, can't tell yet on power and economy since its been snowing so i'm driving easy.
If your handy you can save a lot of money doing some of it your self. lots of info on here and google searches. If you do the brakes your self search google and youtube on how to romove stuck rotors, no big hammer or torch needed. Yes synthetic in the diffs. maybe upgrade your pads and rotors to help with the large tires. I use bg moa every other oil change, really helps when running high rpm's for long stretches.
If your handy you can save a lot of money doing some of it your self. lots of info on here and google searches. If you do the brakes your self search google and youtube on how to romove stuck rotors, no big hammer or torch needed. Yes synthetic in the diffs. maybe upgrade your pads and rotors to help with the large tires. I use bg moa every other oil change, really helps when running high rpm's for long stretches.
Oh, lower your spare tire down and make sure the cable is working smooth. Mine was binding up almost couldn't get it down when i needed it. Cost me $100 from dealer no store has it, don't know about websites though. Vaccumm hoses, had one crack leaving the vents on defrost only. Wiper blades, windshield.






