Yesterday I brought my 97 Expedition home. Attempts to boost it didn't work so I had to tow it home. When I checked underneath, the connections on the starter solenoid were completely corroded off. So, I had to take the starter out, put in a new solenoid switch and put new connections on all the wires.

Now, the truck still won't start. When testing the starter relay on the firewall, I have the following results:

A
BC

When I jump A to C, the relay clicks but the starter does nothing. When I jump B to C, nothing happens. When I jump A to B, relay clicks, starter does nothing. When I jump A to the positive terminal of the battery, relay clicks, starter does nothing.

The solenoid was indeed bad due to the corroded connections (some were completely gone), but is it possible that the starter motor is also seized?

 

How did you remove the 10mm nuts on the solenoid without breaking the post ? That's hard to do when corroded. You absolutely sure you have it connected properly ? How many volts in the battery ? You check you starter interrupt relay, that's not the firewall relay.

Well, if it won't jump from the firewall, turn the crank by hand, then try again. Starter might be bad, but that doesn't happen to often.

 

How did you install the new fittings on the starter cable? There is not much extra wire to cut any off and still reach the starter. When those wires corrode the corrosion spreads up the wire under the insulation. I have changed some and then cut the wire two or three inchs up under the insulation of the old wire and the wire was still bad that far up. You may want to check for volts as jbrew suggested. Just a note. if you decide to get a new starter cable take the build date (day& month) of your truck with you. Trucks built in 1997 had the cable design changed around mid year and the improved design is not compatable with the earlier junction box.

 

Where I had to cut the connections I spliced in new wire. The corrosion wasn't extensive, pretty much just limited to the connectors themselves.

I took the starter off again, and disassembled it completely. Cleaned it up, greased where appropriate, then put it all back together. Tested it on the bench and the solenoid moves the gear to the starting position, but it doesn't turn. So, I'm assuming its toast...

 

I know what you mean, mine corroded that way, eventually developing a few pin holes in the insulation. The 98's (not sure if the same as the 97's) loop up to the starter from just below it. Depending upon how it's wrapped, it can hold water in that loop for a time and corrode the hell out of the wires. Mine was so bad at one time, it would drain the battery.

Ended up building a new harness since to purchase one was an arm and a leg.
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chrmar - Check that frame ground behind the passenger side tire as well. Those can break in two after a period of time. You can take your starter in and have it tested properly. If you need a new one, they come with a lifetime warranty, -I know, I've replaced them twice on my truck , just from the solenoid stud busting off. The new ones come pigtailed w/Ford TSB.

 

Ya I was just down in the basement the other day checking out what size wire I have laying around. Thought this would be a good time ( getting bored) to make one up for my 97. Last I checked they wanted around $135.00 for that harness. Mine is still original but I spliced and soldered a new lug on it a few years ago so I know it has to be getting corroded again. Take care.

 

135! That's cheap! I think ? Purdy sure they wanted at least 250 when I checked. Maybe that was both sides. Well hang-on, I'll check right now ... ~



That's right , the NEG was the pricey one.

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Yea, I'm tryin some quick connects currently. You can't see in the pic, but there's a good size bolt pinning the 4 gauge down, inside a led house lol .



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Here's one I did up like you were saying, I spliced this one -



I have some 4 & 6 awg if you need some , on spools lol.

 

Your work bench looks about like mine. My wife always says it such a mess she doesn't know how I find anything. I tell here just don't touch anything, I know exactly where everything is LOL. You do nice work. Thanks for the wire offer but I have plenty. It's not black or red but it's the right gauge....Do you solder those lugs on or crimp them? I found that soldering works real good and helps keep the corrosion at bay as well. Take care.

 

- Yea ,I've tried to organize the bench/ tools and what not in the past, -mannn, that really screws things up, don't it?? I can't find anything organized, -funny how that works lol.

I didn't make those, I purchased them made up like that. O'Riely's had them. Their soldered and crimped. The lead lug is soldered on the one end, the other end is the quick connect. Yea, their made up pretty well, that's why I grabbed them, they don't come around to often lol.

Oh yea, I solder and heat shrink everything I can.

 

When I try to start the truck all I get is a click and the dome lights go out. When I checked the starter, the wires were all corroded off of the solenoid. I replaced the solenoid and still have the clicking problem. I replaced the starter motor with a known good starter from a 98 Windstar parts van I have and still the same problem. So, now I'm thinking I need to replace the clicking relay on the firewall. Unfortunately I can't find said relay on the Windstar so I'm going to have to get one somewhere else....

The truck does have a PATS key and an aftermarket starter installed (I think; there is a remote in the truck and an antenna above the mirror. No idea where to look for the system).

Edit: Found the switch for the remote start and turned it off; still having the same problem.

 

you can test the relay by shorting the big to small posts and if the relay is bad the engine should turn over.

 

Well after more screwing around I finally put a strongbar on the crank bolt and, guess what, engine won't turn over.

So, now I have to hunt for an engine... first, I'm going to do some research to see what all's compatible...

 

Pull the plugs first it may be hydrolocked per you other post.

 

How did we go from starter problems to Hydro-lock

 

Figured I would bring this thread back instead of starting a new one...

The engine isn't seized but I still can't get it to start. Either bad starter relay or bad solenoid (again). At any rate, my mechanic friend suggested that, if I can get a known good running engine for around the same price as replacing the gaskets and bolts on the one in the truck, I should do that instead. Especially considering it has an undiagnosed coolant leak still. Swap engines, keep the original as a backup and tear it down outside of the truck.

The question I have is this: are all Crown Victorias Romeo engines? I found a 4.6 in a Crown Vic that only has 90-100k kms on it for $300. For that price I could certainly track down the proper intake and exhaust for a Windsor if necessary, but I'd like to use what I have if possible to keep costs down. The Autozone website seems to suggest that 99% of them are Romeos, but I wanted to check here. The junkyard is 45 mins away and I'd prefer not to make two trips if possible...