the module is in excellent shape. The underneath of my truck is very clean, the truck hardly ever sees snow and I get it oiled every winter. that being said, that doesnt mean something isnt corroded, but the module is fine. I looked in the manual for a fuel pump fuse and was unsuccessful. I won't be able to mess with it this week anyways so I will try to figure out where the fuse is and where to test if I am getting power to the pump.

 

I don't know where to start lol. Do you know what a Muti-Tester is? Not making fun, not everyone does. Anyway, you can check for power this way, either at the connector / top of the tank or you can stick a wire with a small
stick pin (like the ones that come with a new shirt) - smaller the better.

Here's a short vid I did verifying DPFE sig out volts to get an idea of what a Mutli - Meter is.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393...07882591006386

Here's a pic , hard to , but all I have. - One wire to Hot other to ground.



Use this setting on the meter -



BTW - With your newer model, you might not have the regular fuse and relay for that now that I think about it more. I'm thinking they integrated all that into or behind the fuse block inside the cab under the dash , drivers side. If THAT goes bad - not sure, but the entire fuse block may have to yanked or replaced. Like I said, not sure when they did that.

The owners guide should show you something like this if you have a set-up similar to the 2003 -

Relay 6 -





Thing is, I'm not sure which wire is hot KOEO to the pump. If it was me I would want to test at the connector if there was no fuse or relay to check.

Ah crap! I'll get a diagram, I'll post when I dig it up, hang on -

 

jbrew, thanks for the replies. I don't have a tester but my fiances dad has one so I will use his. I understood what I needed to do, just didnt know where to do it. It will probably have to wait til next weekend, but I will try to disconnect above the tank and test for power there. I will probably not be lucky enough for it to just be a relay or fuse. The gas coming out the back side of the old fuel filter was BLACK. This probably led to the potential failure of my pump. I also checked the connector wires on the drivers side frame rail and although there was a little bit of grit inside the plastic cover, it wasnt that bad and the connectors appeared fine.

 

2004 4.6L Ford Service

HC1 CHECK THE SYSTEM INTEGRITY
Visually inspect the complete fuel delivery system for damage and leakage.
Check the following:

Fuel lines and connections.
Relays.
Fuel tank.
Fuel pump.
Fuel pressure regulator.
Fuel pulse damper.
Fuel rail at injectors.
Damaged connector pins.
Electrical connectors not fully engaged.

Verify the vehicle has followed the maintenance schedule. (Fuel filter should have been replaced within the last 48,280 km (30,000 miles)).

VERIFY the Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch is set (button pushed in). REFER to the Owner Guide for location.

Verify the fuse integrity.

Verify the battery is fully charged.
Verify clean sufficient fuel.

Are any of the above concerns present?

Yes / No

REPAIR as necessary. GO to HC2 .

____________________________________________


That's a "no start" run down right from service. Was the inertia switch popped? Did you have to reset it?

 

inertia switch wasnt popped. I have performed all the checks. I think its the pump itself and I will not have time to do it myself as med school is starting up again. Getting it towed to get repaired. I can feel better that at least I learned how to change my fuel filter and how to check all the other possibilities first. Jbrew, thanks for the replies man, I appreciate it.

 

No problem, yea , I couldn't bring up the wiring diagrams from the service DVD on the 2004. Not sure why yet. I wanted to see where those fuses and relays are on that model.

I wonder what happen to it, - so if you would follow up here when you find out, I would apriciate it. That sucks you have to take it in and I just priced a pump for a van, -not cheap, like you said, around $360 from Ford. I did get the labor charge for changing as well, yours should be close to this -


Parts Information------------------OEM Part #----------Price


Fuel Pump

---------------------------------F75Z9H307CD---------$356.83 Notes

__________________________________________________ _______________

Labor Information----Skill Level-----------Mfg. Warranty------Standard

Fuel Pump
Diagnose/Test

Fuel Pump, Test---------B-----------------------0.4-----------0.5

Replace-----------------B-----------------------1.6-----------2.2

Not sure if they'll charge to diagnose if your tell them it's the pump. I would to be sure, if you do it's about 2.7 hrs labor all together.


Good Luck

 

im gonna make a wild guess that my fuel filter contributed to premature wear of the pump? we will see, but the filter was nasty. i am not excited for the bill, but i am excited to see how my truck drives with a clean fuel system

 

I had this problem back in May and it wound up being a ground wire in the front in the passenger wheel well. But during that process I wound up replacing pump and module and now it’s doing same thing so I replaced module and hot wired it to get pump to turn on and it does. But it still won’t start. Even when we bypassed the module and took power straight to pump it still won’t start. We checked all fuses and relays and were down to checking wires but so far I got nothing and I need my truck in 6hrs for work.. any ideas would be great