Can someone please help me with this diagnostic report and tell me if it is the O2 sensors that is bad. my truck is idling really rough and the check engine light is on and it shows code PO303 and we have changed the Spark Plugs,
Plug Wires, Coil Packs. But I am unsure of what these numbers are supposed to be as a normal Thanks Larise

Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0303.
2. Fuel System 1 Status - Closed Loop.
3. Fuel System 2 Status - Not Supported.
4. Calculated LOAD Value - 78.82 %.
5. Engine Coolant Temp - 116.60 °F.
6. Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 - -4.69 %.
7. Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 - 0.78 %.
8. Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 - -6.25 %.
9. Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 - 10.16 %.
10. Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure - 23.10 Inhg.
11. Engine RPM - 2,165.00 Rpm.
12. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 29.20 Mph.
13. Ignition Timing Advance #1 Cylinder - 17.50 °.
14. Intake Air Temperature - 78.80 °F.
15. Air Flow Rate Mass Air Flow Sensor - 7.32 Lb/Min.
16. Absolute Throttle Position - 26.27 %.
17. Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage (B1-S1) - 0.60 V.
18. Short Term Fuel Trim (B1-S1) - -16.41 %.
19. Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage (B1-S2) - 1.28 V.
20. Short Term Fuel Trim (B1-S2) - -100.00 %.
21. Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage (B2-S1) - 0.60 V.
22. Short Term Fuel Trim (B2-S1) - -50.78 %.
23. Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage (B2-S2) - 1.28 V.
24. Short Term Fuel Trim (B2-S2) - -100.00 %.
25. Time Since Engine Start - 19968 Sec.

 

what kind of vehicle? year? motor? mileage? did you reboot after the plugs and coils and wires? just to make sure i'm reading those right, those arent negative numbers are they? have you checked for a vacuum leak? is it just a rough idle?

 

Yes we rebooted. after changing everything.

2006 Ford F-150 V8 4.6 engine 103000 miles

 

yes some of them are negative

 

With a coolant temp of only 116F your report is near worthless. About the only thing it tells you for sure is that you have misfire on #3 and apparently the thermostat is malfunctioning or the test was run and the engine was not at operating temp.

 

It all started with some bad gas. And looks like the fuel trim values are all screwed up I am a woman and don't much about cars and my husband is a diesel mechanic but this is getting aggravating to keep changing things and not fixing it so i thought someone on here might could be of more help when it comes to the MAF sensor or the O2 sensors.

 

for starters the 06 4.6 didnt have plug wires. they had boots(with spring in the center) that went from the coil down to the plug if thats what you meant? what brand plugs did you use? what brand coils? did you use dielectric grease? did you (or your husband) replace the parts or did someone else do it?

 

Yes we had done it while going down the road but i see that now that you pointed it out and this must have been the test we redid in the yard will have to warm it up and do another one thanks

 

We had them replaced at a shop and used the motorcraft ford platium plugs

 

yes it is just a rough idle mainly at stop signs etc.
when in gear idles a little better in park but still has a slight miss. and the check engine light coming on and shows up PO303 code each time

 

ok what about the coils though(what brand)?
po303 is cylinder 3 misfire, the possibilities that could be wrong without getting inside the engine are a coil, spark plug, and injector or the wiring to the coil or injector or vacuum leak causing a rough idle. did the shop diagnose it or did they just replace parts that you requested? if they diagnosed it then take it back and tell them to do it right.

i'd look for a vacuum leak, and clean the maf. would you happen to know what kind of air filter you have in it?

 

It started out with the engine light on the test showed 171 174 Po303 Po 308 so we put new Luber FIner Fuel Filter on Fram Air FIlter Gumout injector cleaner. filled up with super premium gas. Replaced coils with Duralast brand. Replaced the Plug Boots with Duralast brand and with Dielectric. Plugs with Motorcraft Platium Brand

 

Yes we cleaned the MAF didn't make a difference haven't found a vacumn leak

 

Okay we will go back to checking for vacum leaks maybe should just put it on a computer on payday since i have spent $500 on it already

 

You may have a bad coil just switch it with a known good one. Looks like number 3 coil with cylinder number 2 and rerun the test. If its the coil number 2 should miss I would start with the coil. Swapping it is easy enought and you should see the result. If not suspect fuel system a leaking fuel injector will probibly give you a long crank time.You can also swap them also.