Help with diagnostic report
Yea, the bad thing around here is , -there's no F150's to pillage, they recycle everything, - so no bone yards whatsoever. That sucks because that would be good place to go shopping lol.
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It's good you can wait for them, saves allot of screwing around time. The coils should get her firing on all 8 again. Hosing her down probably didn't hurt the injectors anyway. You might want to clean the plugs up in the misfiring cylinders. That's up to you, they usually won't totally foul IF their Motorcraft.
Did you order 8 or 10 ? I order 10 because of the possibility of getting a bad one out of the box. It hasn't happened yet, but I've heard it can.
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Let us know how it turns out Del
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It's good you can wait for them, saves allot of screwing around time. The coils should get her firing on all 8 again. Hosing her down probably didn't hurt the injectors anyway. You might want to clean the plugs up in the misfiring cylinders. That's up to you, they usually won't totally foul IF their Motorcraft.
Did you order 8 or 10 ? I order 10 because of the possibility of getting a bad one out of the box. It hasn't happened yet, but I've heard it can.
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Let us know how it turns out Del
Well there are generally a decent amount of junk yards around here with F150's since us Texans seem to have an addiction to American made pickups lol so if you ever need me to hit any of them up for a specific part that is giving you hell to find and costs an arm and a leg at the dealer then just give me a holler. You can just pay me what the junk yard charged plus a few bucks for shipping... I hve weekends off from work and my classes are going to get a lot easier this semester since I'm changing my major from engineering (suicide w/working a job) to Economics/Math so I don't mind hitting the junkyards on the weekends.
Well when I drove home from the girlfriends house this morning my check engine light was FINALLY off and the truck ran like normal, then I get home to find my set of 8 coil packs (should have ordered the 10...) had arrived today as well lol. I didn't think it would take a whole week to dry out but I guess it did since it's running normally now. However, I guess I'll replace them anyway, can always save the old ones for backup since they seem to work. I mean, it can't hurt since they haven't been replaced and the truck has 185k on it, hell maybe it will run even smoother or increase my fuel efficiency.
And yeah, I replaced all the plugs not too long ago with the motorcraft ones but I'll check those while I'm doing it, what would I look for that would throw a red flag that the plug has been fouled exactly and whats best to clean them with? I usually just hit them with brake parts cleaner and very lightly with a soft steel brush...
as always, the info is VERY MUCH appreciated!
...BUMP for Larise's problem! lol
Last edited by Delirium; Aug 10, 2009 at 03:19 PM.
Well, I need a Bed (4x4 SC),Cab, Windshield and Bumper -preferably white. - But don't go out of your way or make a special trip 
Just kidding, yea, she's rusting and it's a PITA to stop the inevitable, just about impossible. Need to find me a nice southern body.
Good luck with school and the truck. If you need to go to the salvage yard for anything, let me know before you head out.

Just kidding, yea, she's rusting and it's a PITA to stop the inevitable, just about impossible. Need to find me a nice southern body.
Good luck with school and the truck. If you need to go to the salvage yard for anything, let me know before you head out.
lol
Yeah, I don't think the shipping on a truck bed or bumper would be worth the money saved by getting them from the junk yard haha.
So how can you tell a spark plug is fouled just by looking at them? is brake parts cleaner and a steel brush a safe way to clean the plug tips off?
So how can you tell a spark plug is fouled just by looking at them? is brake parts cleaner and a steel brush a safe way to clean the plug tips off?
Yeah, I don't think the shipping on a truck bed or bumper would be worth the money saved by getting them from the junk yard haha.
So how can you tell a spark plug is fouled just by looking at them? is brake parts cleaner and a steel brush a safe way to clean the plug tips off?
So how can you tell a spark plug is fouled just by looking at them? is brake parts cleaner and a steel brush a safe way to clean the plug tips off?
. A good burn is light brown.I clean them if their carboned up, but if there's carbon on the white porcelain towards the bottom or anywhere on the porcelain for that matter, -I replace them.
Don't forget to re-grease.
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Yea, that is a tall order lol. I'm getting ready to do the bodywork AGAIN , - since I have a Lincoln in the driveway I fixed and now get to use - the owners are out of the country
A fouled plug is usually black and at times, wet. Check the gap as well .54 -easy to remember
. A good burn is light brown.
I clean them if their carboned up, but if there's carbon on the white porcelain towards the bottom or anywhere on the porcelain for that matter, -I replace them.
Don't forget to re-grease.
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Yea, that is a tall order lol. I'm getting ready to do the bodywork AGAIN , - since I have a Lincoln in the driveway I fixed and now get to use - the owners are out of the country
. A good burn is light brown.I clean them if their carboned up, but if there's carbon on the white porcelain towards the bottom or anywhere on the porcelain for that matter, -I replace them.
Don't forget to re-grease.
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Yea, that is a tall order lol. I'm getting ready to do the bodywork AGAIN , - since I have a Lincoln in the driveway I fixed and now get to use - the owners are out of the country

You mean the anti seize **** that goes on the threads or the grease on the tip that the coil boot goes on that helps conduct electricity? (I think it's called dielectric grease or something??)
No anti seize on those plugs is safer. Just Di-electric grease inside the entire boot, but stretch the springs , just a little, so you can clean the spring ends , -just where they contact the plug. You don't want ANY grease preventing a good connection at the the plug and grease inside the boots help focus pulse directly to the plugs/ saves your boots from carbon trail deterioration and protects against moisture.
Last edited by jbrew; Aug 10, 2009 at 04:54 PM.
Exactly, that was a turning point. I have to say it was more noticeable performance wise, than the Long Tube header install, but only because my coils and injectors were old and no longer functioning at peak or as they should be. I think I was at 165,000 when I replaced the Injectors and the Coils.
I put allot miles on since then, I'm at 262,000 now and I updated the coils again last winter @ 257,750 miles.
I have 2 sets of Motorcraft and two sets of Global that I purchased in the past. Out of all of them, my only bad coils are from the Motorcraft sets. I not saying one is better than the other, just that there's no difference.
The last update (this past winter), I purchased the V10 pack (package of 10 coils) so that I would have 2 extra on hand, - that's why I have two still in the box , - haven't needed them.
Since Global Automotive is no longer a registered user on Ebay, -Uneek Supply would be the go to. Global and Uneek both sell/sold "Gama" DG508's which are the proven to be trustworthy coils.
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Injectors
Back then , @ 165,000 miles, -I purchased a new set from a Romeo crate motor that was parted out. Bosch 19's Type(design) 3's which I'm still running today.
Here's an old pic of that install -

At that point I was running Motorcraft coils, - had problems with them and swapped them out for the $80 Global Auto set on ebay a few months later.
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So, I would purchase Coils from UneekSupply if it were me -
The injectors? I'm not sure, but I know Ebay sells a bunch. Either Sonic Cleaned or New. "New" (take-offs) if you can find them. Just make sure you purchase injectors with the right connectors or your harness connector won't match. There's only two types. Here -

The connector on the bottom of the pic is what you have. And that's a stock injector in front of the type 3. I purchased the WRONG ones back then and had to change the harness, - you can avoid that by purchasing Type 3's with the right connector.
Here's an additional pic with more info -

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They do make conversion pigtails if you can't find EV1's, but their 10 bucks a pop

I'll save you a little time - Injectors currently on ebay, -
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=FOR...TORS&_osacat=0
You need the Orange 19 lb. Stick with 19's, changing Injector size will only make your fuel ratios unpredictable.
I put allot miles on since then, I'm at 262,000 now and I updated the coils again last winter @ 257,750 miles.
I have 2 sets of Motorcraft and two sets of Global that I purchased in the past. Out of all of them, my only bad coils are from the Motorcraft sets. I not saying one is better than the other, just that there's no difference.
The last update (this past winter), I purchased the V10 pack (package of 10 coils) so that I would have 2 extra on hand, - that's why I have two still in the box , - haven't needed them.
Since Global Automotive is no longer a registered user on Ebay, -Uneek Supply would be the go to. Global and Uneek both sell/sold "Gama" DG508's which are the proven to be trustworthy coils.
__________________________________
Injectors
Back then , @ 165,000 miles, -I purchased a new set from a Romeo crate motor that was parted out. Bosch 19's Type(design) 3's which I'm still running today.
Here's an old pic of that install -

At that point I was running Motorcraft coils, - had problems with them and swapped them out for the $80 Global Auto set on ebay a few months later.
__________________________
So, I would purchase Coils from UneekSupply if it were me -
The injectors? I'm not sure, but I know Ebay sells a bunch. Either Sonic Cleaned or New. "New" (take-offs) if you can find them. Just make sure you purchase injectors with the right connectors or your harness connector won't match. There's only two types. Here -

The connector on the bottom of the pic is what you have. And that's a stock injector in front of the type 3. I purchased the WRONG ones back then and had to change the harness, - you can avoid that by purchasing Type 3's with the right connector.
Here's an additional pic with more info -

___________________________________
They do make conversion pigtails if you can't find EV1's, but their 10 bucks a pop


I'll save you a little time - Injectors currently on ebay, -
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=FOR...TORS&_osacat=0
You need the Orange 19 lb. Stick with 19's, changing Injector size will only make your fuel ratios unpredictable.
Did you say that one in front is the stock ones that I have? and that I need to replace them with the type 3 in order to have the same connectors match up? Just want to make sure before I blow the money on a set, gonna try to find some on Ebay...
Really? Nope no special store, I purchased mine from a crate motor at the the time, - I got lucky, but you can get a set of good ones - Sonic cleaned. Your looking for EV6 Type 3"s right? I'll look real quick -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIC-F...ht_1559wt_1165
Here's some that came up, but there's quite a few on ebay, - I didn't look thru them all. Just make sure you get the right ones to match your connectors..
Here's the injector link -
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...item4836e0d59c
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIC-F...ht_1559wt_1165
Here's some that came up, but there's quite a few on ebay, - I didn't look thru them all. Just make sure you get the right ones to match your connectors..
Here's the injector link -
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...item4836e0d59c
Thanks bud.
That cleaning/remanufacturing process sounds pretty thorough on that first link you posted, and it says they have a 3 yr warranty. But those are also Bosch brand, you think that matters?
That cleaning/remanufacturing process sounds pretty thorough on that first link you posted, and it says they have a 3 yr warranty. But those are also Bosch brand, you think that matters?
Hey I thought I needed the EV1's don't I?
How do these look?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...=p4506.c0.m245
How do these look?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...=p4506.c0.m245
Hey I thought I needed the EV1's don't I?
How do these look?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...=p4506.c0.m245
How do these look?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...=p4506.c0.m245
The injectors in your link look alright, IF all your looking to do is replace the old with a cleaned up set. I don't think those are even design 2's ? I would be after the latest revision as far as that goes, they do sell Type 3's with your connector, you have to hunt them down lol. I'll try to find some later.
Last edited by jbrew; Aug 21, 2009 at 04:58 PM.
Oh OK, I see now, I assumed that if they had the right connector (EV1) then they were the type 3's. So I just need to find the newer type 3's with my EV1 connector on them. So what makes those newer type 3's so much better than what came on it stock?


