I'm replacing my intake, thought I would catch the plugs with the manifold off.

Went to NAPA and got autolite XP 103s.

Before I put these in, are these OK? or can some recommend a sure thing please.

engine is a 5.4 in a 2001 supercrew

 

Take them back and get Motorcrafts. Install them DRY with NO antiseize and torque them to 28 ft/lb. Use adequate dielectric grease in the COP boots when reassembling.

 

no special type plug, just the standard motorcraft plug that is in the look up for a 2001 5.4 right?

Thanks for the torque spec, I'm not that familiar with aluminum heads

 

Yes, - return the 103's. Here's the part # your looking for~

MOTORCRAFT SUPPRESSOR SPARK PLUG -- Delivers maximum voltage to the spark plug while maximizing performance and increases engine life; Resists corrosion and abrasion; Reduces the chance of misfire.

Fit Note: .054 Gap; Platinum.

Type: Direct Fit OE Replacement


The 2001 F150; 5.4L =

Manufacturer Number: SP479

 

GLC's replay that said not to use antiseize and install the plugs dry. Why is that? Wouldnt you have the same problem here as plugs seizing in the head? Maybe why so many people report having plugs break off in the head.

 

Some engines will blow the plugs out if you use the anti seize. That stuff is just so slick, there is just not enough friction to hold them in place

 

Well the plugs are done. This is my first aluminum head.

I used a beam torque wrench to break the plugs loose, every one was just short of 30ft lbs. I blew out the holes with compressed air before removing the old plugs, reinstalled each SP479 plug with a small hose and torqued dry to almost 30 ft lb.

Original plugs had almost twice the recommended gap at 150K miles. I'd hate to have to do this task with the manifold in place ( cracked last week )

Thanks to all, for a helping hand on this project.

 

Tumba, thanks for the info. I have seen complaints with the 5.4 blowing plugs out but did not understand how that could happen. I just bought a 04 Lariat today and am nervous about changing the plugs. Its got 75000 and i wonder if i should attempt it sooner than later. Would hate to bust one off in a truck i just bought.

 

The blow out problem is with the 2v engines up thry 2003. You have the 3v and need to be concerned with the brakage problem. Just follow the TSB and if one breaks, have the tools handy for removing. Do a search on the subjects for lots of info.

 

Jerry, the reason I said what I did is the 4.6's and 5.4's through early 2003 only had 4 threads in the head. Plugs torqued to factory recommended 15 ft/lb with antiseize had a nasty habit of loosening and blowing out. The Motorcraft SP-series plugs have nickel plated threads, which eliminate the need for antiseize, and torquing them to 28 eliminates the loosening problem.

Now, your 3V is a whole different story, you have a lot of threads to read.

 

Not quite true. Anti seize just changes the torque value required and most people do not know how to calculate the correct value so they are safer using none and tightening to the dry torque value. Anti seize does not cause blow outs, incorrect torque does.

 

I am going on the recommendation of the guys at blownoutsparkplug.com. I specifically asked them about antiseize, and they say NOT to use it on the 4 thread heads.

 

That is the safest recommendation.

 

I have to say, I've never seen a anti sieze torque spec lol.

Norms right tho -

It is SAFER to go without. This question an answer explains the simple reason why; how easy it is to OVER- torque and not know you doing so.

__________

On another note, my plugs didn't come with specs, nore did they say to use anti-seize, BUT they did come with directions. They directions were in 90 degree "turns" after seat.

That said,-they still came out to around 20 ft lbs.