The story you are about to read, is the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth

After all this time chasing my a$$, I find the stupppppidest overlook I've done.
Those EGR lines only fit one way on my truck, The IMS side is too short to for it to connect to the other side. Wrong size yada,yada,yada.
The thing is, I've never replaced them myself. So the dealership or one of the the two certified mechanics that I've carried it to did this to me. The last mechanic I carried it to, was a shop foreman at the dealership here in town, that had opened his own shop.
But the thing is, That light did not come for a couple of months afterward. That's impossible right?
I feel like the biggest idiot to ever post, here(You do not have to agree with that statement, but I'll take the abuse)
I went to the only parts stores that were open yesterday to try to find a replacement section. But in my small town on Saturday afternoons There is only Auto zone and O'reilly's.
At this point I really was thinking dumber than usual, so I spliced it with a piece of brass tubing to make it long enough to reach. So I'm sure the restriction is cause my current codes or 402(excessive EGR) and 1401(DPFE high input. because of the imbalance and restriction of the spliced tubing.

Today thinking a little more clearly( though still like an idiot) I could have just unbolted the DPFE and hooked the tubes up.
I'll not get to work on it today. But after this experience, I need the day away from it.
But the question still remains, How did the CEL stay off for ANY period of time , while hooked up backward.


My helper changed the plugs Friday evening, while I did all the tests on the vacuum lines, that I could isolate.The truck ran great afterward and was even a little peppier. The #6 hole had gotten water in it at sometime or another so it was the one causing the low grade miss fire(once some time back I did get a code for a miss on #6, But i had worked the boot around and the code didn't come back.

 

This is the line a dealership put on my dpfe, when they got crossed. I thought this was the type of line they were supposed to have, and it wouldn't reach the other opening on the dpfe.

Today I went by there to get a replacement, they gave me a piece of vacuum line. Will it take the heat?


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No, they are special silicone hoses. Our dealer has bulk dpfe hose in stock and sells it by the foot. Those hoses look like ones we got with an old recall years ago. Can't remember which one, but always had them left over.

 

Ok, now I down to the one code. P1401. When checking the voltage references, which is the wire that should have the voltage between 4.96, and .195 volts? Is it the, Signal RTN, or the VREF?

Thanks in advance for your help

http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egrmonitor.htm

 

Check the reference voltage (VREF ~ Bottom Pin) to the harness connector, verify that it is equivalent to battery voltage. Reconnect the DPFE and check the output voltage (SIG RTN ~ Center Pin), if it is not changing (0.45 - 4.5) you will have to replace the DPFE .

.45 is dead lol - So it should jump to around 4.5 on the return.

 

Thanks again Brew.
I'm hoping I have this one kicked in the head soon.
It has been one of those problems that just **** you off!

 

Try not to stick (w/check pins) the wires to close to the connector- So you can repair them w/liquid tape,sealer or whatnot. If it looks real bad, you can pop the wire from the connector itself and slide some heat shrink over it, -that works best. Radio Shack has more options in heat shrink if you need some. You shouldn't need to stick the VREF because your getting your reading from the connector blade, but an open VREF wire can cause a P1401,-just so you know. I use small stick pins on the sig wires, then seal them when done.

BTW- Keep mind 1401 is dedicated to "circuit" - so look for chaffing and possible shorts, any bare wiring, - special were the wires bend coming from the connector. The can rub the insulation off one another over time.

 

Yea , I get a little crazy when I can't find the problem. One time I took a Machete too wiring - Then started over




A little extreme, but I never had that problem again

 

I've got my carburetor rebuilt and ready to go back on the lawn mower, and then I'm getting back on this DPFE. But first I'm waiting for the outside temperature to drop below the 100 degree mark.
So you think I've lost some insulation off my wires eh? I'll be sure to check that out real good, as that could explain a few things. Remember I've had a rodent problem here before, on the wifes car. It's so damn hot here now everything is crazy from the heat.
Now I'm having to replace a 1.5 ton A/C condenser unit. I think the Gods are mad at me. Everything I own is breaking right now. The A/C that's out, is the most important one here, because it's the one that keeps kids and their visitors out of my hair
I haven't ordered my plug wires yet, because I'm waiting to see if I need this DPFE. I've got a miss on #6 because at sometime some water got in the well and corroded the wire up. I did buy new plugs at O"Rielley's (Motor Craft nickle) and put them in. But at that time I didn't know about that plug wire. Soon this thing is going to be running like new

 

I just replaced my Air conditioning unit for the house as well. It wasn't keeping up, then the line started freezing up. From outside- all the way to the furnace, solid ice lol.
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Yea, it took me two years to get the truck running like new again, but it was worth it. Runs better than it ever has, thanks to this site and Ebay lol.

 

I have a bigger problem here. KOEOff~ lower pin only has 4 volts coming to it.
The center pin has nothing coming out period. I know I got good copper contact while back probing it, so that isn't the problem.

What would cause the input to the lower pin(VREF?) to be only 4 volts. I checked it before doing anything else when I started on it.
The battery while disconnected did only show 12 volts instead of the usual 12.6.

 

Anyone want to break the news to me?

 

Idunno lol - Tell you what, I'll check mine and see what it says later. I have to go to the damn doctor first.

I haven't had a problem with mine in quite some time.

 

This post is where I got the idea it should be 12 volts. When I only got 4, it just kinda made me want your machete.
I have looked the wires over as you suggested, and they are showing their age, getting a little brittle. But I think they are still sound. I may have to replace that harness in the future, because I do plan to keep this truck forever.