Lately my truck has been acting up, to start - It's a 2002 5.4 Screw 2wd with 105k on it.
While driving every now and then it feels like someone is Tugging a rope attached to it from behind. It's like a sudden JERK, it's real quick and happens a few times in succession. Lately, from a stop its been happening alot during acceleration and during any type of load. But while accelerating it's almost like the power is cutting out - it's not constant, its tug's in and out of the power band.. but its continuous until I slam on the throttle. At WOT it'll will change gears, back and forth 1 or 2 times then finally fully accelerate. A few weird things lately aswell... a few months back I pulled the MAF and removed all of the intake assembly all the ways down to removing the plastic intake manifold and throttle body, and cleaned it all. It was severely gunked up with oil and dust. While doing this I changed the oil and oil filter, ran a bottle of lucas fuel system treatment through it(4 tanks over the course of 4 weeks) and flushed the coolant/radiator. After all that, it ran a ton better - smoother acceleration, better throttle response and seemingly smoother shifting. BUT! Whenever I turn on the A/C it idles extremely hard, it'll go 15-20 mph without me touching the gas, and when I am coasting at 65-70 and I let off the gas, it'll drop 5mph or so.. but then keep itself accelerated. It also doesn't shift down correctly.. after I come to a complete stop, a few seconds later it suddenly kicks down a gear hard. Only happens though when A/C is on. But as of now - when A/C is on, it constantly does the jerking I explained earlier.

Anyone have any idea? I threw a SES today coming home from work - so tomorrow I'll have the codes checked.

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That was my original post, and since then nothing has changed. Scanned the truck and got a P0355 code - Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit malfunction. Heres the weird part, the code suggests cylinder #5(first driver side) but I can clearly here something wrong within cylinder #1(first passenger side). Almost sounds sandy or like static clicking sound.

Before I run out to replace some COP's, what could I do to check this? Is there anyway a old/bad fuel filter would have been a cause torward my truck jerking like it was?

Thanks

 

change the COPs and plugs, fuel filter, clean the MAF, TB and see what it does when is the last time you changed eh o2 sensors???



why didn't you just bump up your old thread?????

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...d-jerking.html

 

change the plugs first my dads truck did the same thing and turned out his spark plugs were about as burnt up as they could get,

 

I cleaned the MAF, TB and changed plugs within the last 10k miles. Should I skip those and just do COP's?

 

While checking my COPs the clip broke on cylinder 5 when I was pushing it back on - can just the clips be spliced? When I pulled the plug to each COP and fuel injector, each cylinder kicked down accordingly, so they seem to be working. Is it a sign that they are going out or could it be the fuel filter is clogging and causing the sudden jerks. But if each cylinder kicked down, then why did the p0355 code go off?

Any help? Thanks

 

Bump for urgency.

Really need to figure out what I can do to get that clip fixed/hold until I can get the money to replace the wire harness. I need the truck up and running by monday.
What can I do about the COP - would replacing just 1 with a different brand be bad? Would like to get uneek's but I can't wait till tuesday for them atm.

 

to hold the one coil harness connector in for now just use electrical tape or a zip tie. you can replace just one coil, and you can order the whole set from uneek and replace them when one goes bad or whenever you have time. if the misfire got worst everytime you unplugged a coil then they are all working at that time. what brand plugs did you use? it could be the fuel filter

 

matt can you help me with this post stuff

 

yea just nig.... just rig up something to hold that COP on until you can replace all that

 

we'll help you in your thread that way we dont hijack this one.

 

Geeze man, sounds like your all thumbs lol.

Well, I can help, just don't make me feel like I'm wasting my time.

First of all, what plugs were in your dads truck and how many miles were on them?

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On the 02. You had Primary failure at some point, -that means you had a dead hole. The fact that you fixed that at some point means there is a connection problem. If you broke the coil connector, the coil needs to be replaced, - no way around that.

If you broke the connector on the harness, you can get one of those here -

http://fordfuelinjection.com/

Or, just go to a scrap yard and cut off the pig tails. The connectors themselves are replaceable. This is done with small screw drivers. The wires will slide out of the connector when prying up on the plastic hooks inside the connector.

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Fuel injectors:

Take a long screwdriver or piece of metal round stock and put one side on the injector and the other side in your ear. Listen to each one, they all should be clicking about the same. If # one is loud, -that's the furthest away from the fuel pump. It may be louder if it's not getting the required fuel.

What you do is -change the fuel filter and then check pressure at the rail. The filters in these trucks should be changed every 15,000 miles. Your system needs this to happen to operate correctly. You can get by going longer, but it's not advised - it's hard on the fuel system.

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Plugs and coils:

Plugs should be changed @ 55,000 regardless of what the manual says. That will keep her at her best. You absolutely have to use nothing but these plugs =

Motorcraft = The fail safe OEM plugs.
Denso's = Fine wires.
NGK = These also work well in these Modulars.

Anything else and she just won't run right or run very long.

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Coils - Get these @ Global Auto or Uneek Supply. Their only about $80 for the entire set of 8 and these are the good ones, don't let anyone tell you different.

I think you could use a set. -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-I...ht_2314wt_1133

Hurry, those are on sale and I've personally never seen them this low..... - get em!!


Make sure you grease them up before you install - VERY IMPORTANT!!

 

You did fine

 

I'm not sure what he broke, but I've seen Techs use zip-ties before,- when they didn't have a coil on hand lol.

But what the DIY'er needs to realize is that the coils DON'T get bolted down. They ride on a bushing and must be able to move freely, -so they don't break.

 

he said the clip on the coil, i know i always take 4 zip ties, put one on each end and run the other 2 throught those to hold both ends in place