Hi everyone!

I'm new here, I just just joined because I'm having some trouble with my F150 and need your help please. The engine light comes on and the truck shuts itself off. It won't start up again unless I disconnect the ground from the battery for a few minutes, and even then I'll have to do that a few times. Also, the A/C begans to make a wheezing noise sometimes before and after it's shut down.

It's an 04' F150 STX if that helps.

Thank you very much in advance!

 

Are both battery terminals clean & tight? What does the voltmeter show? Are any codes stored? When it "won't start", what exactly happens & DOESN'T happen? Does the starter spin the engine? Does the engine even sputter? Be specific.

 

Both terminals are clean and well clamped. I'll have to check on the voltmeter when it is running. I don't know about codes though.. I wasn't sure if I should run a diagnostic on it or not.

After it shuts down and I pull off the side of the road to a stop.. I'll turn the key and nothing happens. No emergency blinkers, no spinning, just the click of the key.

 

Pull your battery and go get it load tested.

 

Actually, I took the battery on it back and replaced with a new one since it was still under warranty. And this is still happeneing with the older battery as it is with the new one. I'll have it checked in case it's defective though. I like to hope its the damn battery!

 

If it's a Duralast from Autozone, it wouldn't surprise me. Those things are junk.

 

Sounds like you have a bad alternator. You shouldn't need the battery to keep it running. With it running go to vato zone to get a charging system check!

 

LOL @ Vato Zone

Ok, I had the battery and alternator tested. All good. As for pulling a code, all it read was "QBD2" so the guy brought out a second set, and it read the same thing on the display. I figured maybe it is a fuse BUT, on my way home, the gas needle died. It won't read the fuel level. I disconnected the battery for about 30 minutes and the needle will now read the fuel level but it is VERY slow! It takes about 2 minutes to reach how much fuel I have which is just a tad over 3/4 tank.

Could this be the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel relay??? I'm just guessing it's got to be related to fuel-something because of the needle now acting up too.

 

& no, it's not a Duralast battery. Interstate.

 

The fuel gauge indicates to me that it is electical. Maybe power to your fuel pump or a bad ground connection somewhere.

 

MAF sensor or Fuel Pump relay??

I'm looking at maybe having to replace the fuel pump.. but all I can find are entire kits.

 

The fuel gauge has absolutely nothing to do with how the engine runs (or doesn't).

I suggest you stay OUT of the zone - most of those monkeys are dangerously stupid, and shouldn't be trusted with complex machinery like a code scanner.

The engine should run without the MAF, so I doubt that's it. And that wouldn't cause the no-start anyway. This has to be a fault near the battery or in the cranking circuit. Grab the heavy battery cables & try to pull them out of the clamps on the battery posts. If they move even a little, replace them. I've seen several that corroded inside the lead or insulation.

 

Same battery as the Motorcraft your truck came with. Johnson Controls made them both and put different stickers on them. Duralasts are actually pretty good. They do have several grades though. I am currently using a NAPA battery which is made by Exide because I get a good price at NAPA.

 

They're both made by Johnson Controls, but they're not "the same". Ford makes the Mustang, and the Mustang GT. They're not the same. Batteries can be made with thick cases that seal well & have plenty of heavy plates that don't break & produce plenty of CCA, or they can be made cheaper for customers who plan to sell them cheaply.

 

Check the starter cable down at the starter. My daughter had this problem on a Suburban. Driving down the road and just quit. Would start back up and go a while and quit. Turned out to be a broken cable.