Engine Keeps Shuting Off

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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 03:49 PM
  #16  
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From: Seabrook,NH
Originally Posted by Steve83
They're both made by Johnson Controls, but they're not "the same". Ford makes the Mustang, and the Mustang GT. They're not the same. Batteries can be made with thick cases that seal well & have plenty of heavy plates that don't break & produce plenty of CCA, or they can be made cheaper for customers who plan to sell them cheaply.
Yes, that is true. That is why I stated they have several grades. If you buy the cheap one you get the cheap one. If you buy the "gold" you get different stickers.
 

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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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Hey guys,

Thanks so so much for the advice! & no I don't buy cheap batteries, lol. I live in the desert, cheap batteries warp and leak. Lol. On all out vehicles we shell out the extra few bucks for piece of mind. Plus we're big on gadgets. Lol.

So here's what's going on as of this weekend's tinkering around in it:
When it starts up it doesn't roar, it's a subtle, weak rumble. As far as driving, it runs normal, it doesn't shut off while driving anymore EXCEPT when I'm not accelerating. When I'm nearing a stop and I let go of the accelerator, it'll keep going until it hits that point of no acceleration and it's just rolling until I hit the brakes. By that point the engine light comes on for about two seconds before it shuts off again, but NOW the battery doesn't shut down with it. I switch it to neutral and start it back up again. Fuel gauge works again. (thank you Bluejay, couldn't remember its adequate title at the time, LOL) So we must have done something right because it'll give me a warning.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 06:02 PM
  #18  
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From: Pittsburg, Texas
Originally Posted by La Queen
Hey guys,

Thanks so so much for the advice! & no I don't buy cheap batteries, lol. I live in the desert, cheap batteries warp and leak. Lol. On all out vehicles we shell out the extra few bucks for piece of mind. Plus we're big on gadgets. Lol.

So here's what's going on as of this weekend's tinkering around in it:
When it starts up it doesn't roar, it's a subtle, weak rumble. As far as driving, it runs normal, it doesn't shut off while driving anymore EXCEPT when I'm not accelerating. When I'm nearing a stop and I let go of the accelerator, it'll keep going until it hits that point of no acceleration and it's just rolling until I hit the brakes. By that point the engine light comes on for about two seconds before it shuts off again, but NOW the battery doesn't shut down with it. I switch it to neutral and start it back up again. Fuel gauge works again. (thank you Bluejay, couldn't remember its adequate title at the time, LOL) So we must have done something right because it'll give me a warning.

this couldnt be the electronic throttle could it??
 
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 07:48 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by f150fella08
this couldnt be the electronic throttle could it??
Are you thinking about the Idle Air Control valve? That's what someone else had suggested. Where exactly would I clean for electronic spray fluid? The valve itself or where it's hooked up to the throttle?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by La Queen
Are you thinking about the Idle Air Control valve? That's what someone else had suggested. Where exactly would I clean for electronic spray fluid? The valve itself or where it's hooked up to the throttle?
huh? the OP has a 2004 which i believe has electronic throttle instead of cables...i hear they have alot of problems with the electronic throttles going out
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 03:24 AM
  #21  
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maybe throttle positioning sensor but i dont know how to test it. mine went out and it would die when i was coming to a stop but crank back up just fine. it was also idling low and rough. i cant remember the codes but i know one was "stuck open bank 1 system too lean" (or something like that). the rest referred to the fuel system but neither the dealer or parts place could pinpoint the problem. i changed the fuel filter but that didnt help so then i changed the tps and that fixed it.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 03:43 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by La Queen
Are you thinking about the Idle Air Control valve? That's what someone else had suggested. Where exactly would I clean for electronic spray fluid? The valve itself or where it's hooked up to the throttle?
If you have a new body '04 and not a Heritage, you don't have a IACV. Throttle position sensor controls the idle I believe.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 03:24 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by f150fella08
huh? the OP has a 2004 which i believe has electronic throttle instead of cables...i hear they have alot of problems with the electronic throttles going out
I'm sorry, I'm not sure what OP stands for or what you mean by electronic throttle instead of the cables?

Originally Posted by code58
If you have a new body '04 and not a Heritage, you don't have a IACV. Throttle position sensor controls the idle I believe.
I believe so, reason being whenever we're out looking for parts for this truck most of the 2004 parts don't fit the truck. Majority of parts are identical to those on an 2005, not sure why that is, but it almost always happens.

Anyway, I'm not sure what we did, but I may post a picture of if someone would like for future refrence or something. Anyway, we disconnected what I thought to believe was the IAC valve [it resembled one to a picture of an explorer I found online, on a how-to clean the IAC valve.] Then after cleaning that, when I started it back up it started up rough. It was trembling bad. So we went to Autozone and this time it finally gave us codes. B1, B2, B3, and B4. Which I couldn't find anywhere online but managed to figure they're mostly all related to the throttle body. So we removed one of the compartments[don't know what it's called, sorry!], and I turned it on with the compartment removed, and someone else sprayed a can of electronic spray fluid into it as I kept it revved. If I let it go, the truck engine died. If I kept it accelerated at about 2500-3500 rpms it was rough housing but it was calming down as more fluid went into it. So I kept my foot on the pedal, and the other person sealed the compartment back on. I let go of the gas and it stayed on as it idled. Then we took it out for a test run and it accelartes significantly better then before. It doesn't shut off anymore, [so far, haha] and it handles speeds over 100mph much smoother. [Yes, Arizona has it's perks, haha]

So I would like to thank everyone very much for thier input and advice! The truck feels so much better then before, it feels like a whole new truck. What exactly the problem is, we're not sure, but we're assuming the gist of it was the throttle body. Thank you so much F150 forums, I'll stay as a member on here because I've seen some cool aftermarket stuff on your trucks that I would love to add to this one, eventhough it's not mine haha.. so thanks again and again!!
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by La Queen
Are you thinking about the Idle Air Control valve? That's what someone else had suggested. Where exactly would I clean for electronic spray fluid? The valve itself or where it's hooked up to the throttle?
Your truck does not have the Idle Control Valve. It has the Throttle Control as mentioned. That would be a good thing to check out next.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
Your truck does not have the Idle Control Valve. It has the Throttle Control as mentioned. That would be a good thing to check out next.
Maybe that's what it was? I tried going to the dealer to ask, but they wouldn't look at it if I didn't agree to leave it overnight. Some help they were. What should I check out on the throttle control? What does it look like?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 03:40 PM
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OP, means Original Poster, which in this case is you. When they say no cable, previous vehicles had a trottle cable that ran from the gas pedal to the carb. You mashed on it and the cable moved the butterflies in the carb. Your truck does not have a cable. It is all controlled by a little motor and the computer. The throttle control sensor is located down near the gas pedal under the dash, as I recall. Do a search on the subject, see what you come up with.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 03:48 PM
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The more I think about it, the more I think I am confusing the throttle actuator with the throttle sensor. Regardless, do an advanced search on those terms and see what might come up.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
OP, means Original Poster, which in this case is you. When they say no cable, previous vehicles had a trottle cable that ran from the gas pedal to the carb. You mashed on it and the cable moved the butterflies in the carb. Your truck does not have a cable. It is all controlled by a little motor and the computer. The throttle control sensor is located down near the gas pedal under the dash, as I recall. Do a search on the subject, see what you come up with.
geez, thank you bluejay!!!
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 07:36 PM
  #29  
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btw sorry i didnt realize you (La Queen) were the OP or person that started this thread
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
OP, means Original Poster, which in this case is you. When they say no cable, previous vehicles had a trottle cable that ran from the gas pedal to the carb. You mashed on it and the cable moved the butterflies in the carb. Your truck does not have a cable. It is all controlled by a little motor and the computer. The throttle control sensor is located down near the gas pedal under the dash, as I recall. Do a search on the subject, see what you come up with.
I could be wrong Bluejay but I think the part on the pedal that sends the message to the computer is a potentiometer. ( in other words, a rheostat).
 
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