alrigh. i orderd the pump and me a few buddies are going to do this tomorrow. i think ill just use the tractor to lift it up.

 

is thier a sending unit after the pump or just the pump?

 

Everyone that i have seen move the bed on a Ford, has scratched the rear of the cab. I've seen Chevy guys do it by moving the bed with no problems, but they are shaped quite differently. Again that is only from what I have witnessed.
The tractor may not be as subtle as a man at each corner lifting it up. Removing the back bumper may help, but I think removing the tank is the best way.

 

yeah every bolt was seized on the bed so i droped the tank. im gunna finish it up tomorow

 

Just my input, but when I changed the fuel pump in the Dodge I had a few years ago, I dropped the tank. It was much easier than pulling the bed and I did it completely on my own. Not sure of the Ford set-up as I've never had to have a look down there, but let us know how it worked out, just in case I ever run into the same thing down the road (and I probably will!).

 

so i they gave me the wrong pump twice now. so i gave in and im going to ford to get the pump im done messing around with other auto parts stores. the only bad part about droping the tank is that i had to remove the drive shaft so i could get to the top of the tank to unclip everything.

 

Is it really necessary to remove the driveshaft to drop the tank?
Sounds like a real PITA!

Question about the fuel lines.
Looking at the picture, I can't see any flare nuts. How are the fuel lines attached to the pump?

Perhaps it's worth paying a dealer $785 to do this?
My local service station wants $250 labor plus list price on pump $350 for a total of $600. Plus towing!

 

I just did the fuel pump replacement on my 1998.

I did not remove the driveshaft or the Bed. The fuel lines are connected by quick connects which require the release tool. It is the same as the fuel filter setup

I dropped the tank just enough to get to the lines to disconnect them

 

Removal :

Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301); refer to Section 414-01 .

Raise and support the vehicle; refer to Section 100-02 .

Disconnect the fuel tank filler pipe hose (9047) from the fuel tank (9002).

Drain the fuel from the fuel tank (9002); refer to Section 310-00 .

Disconnect the fuel tank vent tube (9A228) from fuel tank filler pipe (9034).

Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.

If equipped, remove fuel tank skid plate.

Remove the five fuel tank skid plate bolts.

Lower the fuel tank skid plate.

Position a suitable jack under the fuel tank (9002).

Remove the front fuel tank support strap (9092).

Remove the two bolts.

Remove the front fuel tank support strap (9092).

Remove the rear fuel tank support strap (9092).

Remove the three bolts.

Remove the rear fuel tank support strap.

Partially lower the fuel tank and disconnect the two EVAP emissions hoses.

Remove the two safety clips from the fuel lines.

Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump (9350).

Install and push the (A) fuel line disconnect tool into the (B) female fitting.

Separate the male and female fitting.

Remove the fuel tank.

Remove the fuel pump.

Remove the fuel pump locking retaining ring (9C385).

Remove the fuel pump and discard the O-ring.

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Removed the Drive Shaft ?? , Yea, that would make it easier on the newer models.

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Yea, I'm almost positive the senders are still attached to the pumps. I haven't heard anything about relocating , so it will most likley pull out with the pump.

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Have Fun!!

 

What fuel pump are you replacing it with?

 

so the new pump works great. it made it alot easyer removing the drive shaft cause when you lower the tank you can only get it down so far. i was just doing mine on the ground so i could sit under and undo everything. But i might have to drop it again because my fuel gauge is stuck on full. but now i know how to do it so it should only take an hour or so.