plugged Cats????

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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 10:57 PM
  #16  
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From: Central New York
Originally Posted by z67
Thanks man. I just don't understand why this started to happen all at once. Last time my engine ran rough was because of my own doing but this time it was like someone clicked a switch. One thing I may not have brought up is when I first walk in the barn and fire it up it runs nice and smooth. Once the idle comes down a bit, it will run smooth at about 6000 rpm no problem. As soon as it starts to warm up, 5 minutes or so, then it will start to miss. I thought that may be another indication that the cats were plugged but I am lost. Regardless, I will not drive it until this is figured out.
Please tell me, you mean 600 rpm's..............
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 12:41 AM
  #17  
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dont know if anyone has answered with this yet, too tired to read through atm lol

Had basically the same smell coming from a 01 Xtreme i own, Turned out it was 2 things, The O2 sensor was garbage, and the cat was nearly plugged solid, changed them both and it ran good as new
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:57 AM
  #18  
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From: Imlay City, Mi
Sorry. I did mean 600 rpm. If and when I get this running smooth and also want to change out the cats will I need to do anything to the back O2 sensors if I replace the current 4 cat system with hi flow cats? I did see what they called a gotts O2 mod by placing a couple of NF's in between the O2 sensor and the pipe with one of the non fouler drilled out 1/2 inch.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 12:35 PM
  #19  
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From: Seabrook,NH
Originally Posted by OldKingCole
I have opened cats removed the core and welded it back together during diagnostic process, I don't recommened driving it that way though, for one, the o2 sensor behind the cat will send the engine signals to lean out mixture which can lead to even more damage
Nope, the O2 sensors behind the cats only tell the ECM that you have working cats. It does not control the fuel mixture or engine in any way. The front O2 sensors do that.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 12:41 PM
  #20  
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From: Seabrook,NH
Originally Posted by z67
If and when I get this running smooth and also want to change out the cats will I need to do anything to the back O2 sensors if I replace the current 4 cat system with hi flow cats?
Put 2 high flows in and replace front O2 sensors. As long as rear sensors are not creating codes keep them and save some money. Rear sensors are for MIL (Check engine light) only and do not affect performance.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 01:50 PM
  #21  
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Hey guys - Ok tell me if I did not read this correctly. My 04 FX4 Screw gets the engine washed almost everytime I wash the truck. Its got 106,500 miles on it and the wash has never caused me any trouble, plus I do the same to the wifes Acura.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by arogers
Hey guys - Ok tell me if I did not read this correctly. My 04 FX4 Screw gets the engine washed almost everytime I wash the truck. Its got 106,500 miles on it and the wash has never caused me any trouble, plus I do the same to the wifes Acura.
That's nuts! Can you drive her under water as well ? Water and Electronics never mix.

You can do it if cover certain area's up, but if you don't - One of these times it's going to bite you in the *** lol - it's comin.

Each wash - your filling the plug chambers up with water. You should play the Lotto, - your lucky as hell!

I just blow the motor off with air - much safer
 

Last edited by jbrew; Apr 17, 2009 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 04:02 PM
  #23  
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From: Imlay City, Mi
Ok jbrew. I am going to pick up a fuel filter, remove all the COPS and grease with the dielectric grease as I should have done the first time and put them back in place. Do you have any idea why the truck runs perfect when I first start it but after it warms up starts to skip a beat??
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 04:05 PM
  #24  
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From: Imlay City, Mi
arogers.
I power washed my engine twice. The first time the engine missed very little and went away after a day.
The second time I washed it the engine would miss and it never went away until I replaced the COP's. I did not try to hit the top of the engine while washer under the hood but apparently this was the problem.
The issue I am having now is not from power washing, I learned that will not work on this truck last year.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 04:15 PM
  #25  
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Well dang! Yeah I pop the top, spray over it once or twice with the power washer, she looks clean and have done so since I bought her in January 04. I do the exact same thing to the wife's Acura and my son does it to his Mustang GT. I just liked the fact that the engine looks new, where is some wood? I might need it. BTW - Love the site, I should have been here a long time ago.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 04:52 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by z67
Ok jbrew. I am going to pick up a fuel filter, remove all the COPS and grease with the dielectric grease as I should have done the first time and put them back in place. Do you have any idea why the truck runs perfect when I first start it but after it warms up starts to skip a beat??
Well, it's not perfect - it's out. 600 rpms is wrong - somethings up there as well. What is your cold start rpms when she idles down the first time after start?

What is your warm rpms?

Is there a difference? How much?

Your Rpms should be between 700 - 750. I believe 730 is perfect - No problems.
__________________________________

I wouldn't touch the coils yet - there's no reason to. Fuel system first - get that out of the way. You have to know that this system is okay FIRST. Otherwise you could be making allot more work for yourself.

Test pressures and regulator. You need a service manual and a fuel pressure tester. Auto Zone has a FREE loner program - use it if you need to

Yea, don't take anything apart yet. You might want to purchase a cheap scan tool - about $65.

_____________________________________

Yea, I don't know what's going on with your truck. Tending to think the computers a little buggy right now, given the weight or number of things not right. Like I said before, it really needs to be gone thru. - All systems. That's not difficult to do yourself.

If it's a one or two part fix , I'll be really surprised.

I might write the old codes down and reboot the PCM. Just because this could produce another DTC after reset. This might help in determining. You don't have to drive it, just disconnect that battery for a 1/2 hour or so and restart. Once started , leave it alone for about 8 - 10 minutes and scan. Scan even with no CEL present. BUT!!! You need a scanner, a cheap one will work. An iphone will work as well if you have one along with the program.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Apr 17, 2009 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 05:05 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by z67
Do you have any idea why the truck runs perfect when I first start it but after it warms up starts to skip a beat??

No lol. But they all do that, just so you know. They give you a false impresion - "it's fixed"!! Then go to hell soon after if it's not. I'm not sure why, but they do that.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #28  
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From: Imlay City, Mi
Ok. This is good and bad.
I pulled the cop on the drivers side closest to the front of the truck, it had white slime all over the rubber boat and in the hole to the point of almost covering the plug. i pulled the cop on the passenger side furthest to the front of the truck and it was dry. I then pulled the second Cop back on the driver side and it had some slime but it was not white but more of a brown color????? Where the hell did all the slim come from? It looks like the coolant line runs next to the first cop I pulled but I am not low on coolant and I see no evidence that there is a leak.
I am going to pull all of them and grease em up to see what else I find. By that time this junk hughes dish internet might load the next page.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:42 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by z67
By that time this junk hughes dish internet might load the next page.
- It's not slow is it ? What is that -"Dial up" or something ? lol.

Originally Posted by z67
Ok. This is good and bad.
I pulled the cop on the drivers side closest to the front of the truck, it had white slime all over the rubber boat and in the hole to the point of almost covering the plug. i pulled the cop on the passenger side furthest to the front of the truck and it was dry. I then pulled the second Cop back on the driver side and it had some slime but it was not white but more of a brown color????? Where the hell did all the slim come from? It looks like the coolant line runs next to the first cop I pulled but I am not low on coolant and I see no evidence that there is a leak.
I am going to pull all of them and grease em up to see what else I find. .
Sounds like you need intake gaskets.

Firewall

Front of truck

The water jackets are between #1 and #5. These modulars have a problem with them, -specially the 5fours. They go bad right there. Your not losing a bunch of coolant, just a little here and there. A little leaches out and travels down the top of the head and dumps into the plug chambers. That's the only explanation I can think of.

The gaskets go bad right here. Sometimes the heads even pit. My 98 did this, the intake itself pitted up as well - had to fill the pits w/aluminum filler. -


 

Last edited by jbrew; Apr 17, 2009 at 06:56 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 07:02 PM
  #30  
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I circled #5 plug chamber and drivers side water jacket -



Yea, that happens on both sides equally - sounds funny, but it does. Can you see how the coolant can travel along the head? That's what happens eventually when they get real bad. Fills all the chambers.

I've changed mine a few times. If you do, let me know. I'll find yuh the right gaskets. It's a PITA because Ford changed dowl locations on those heads allot.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Apr 17, 2009 at 07:10 PM.
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