WHAT a PITA!
WHAT a PITA!
My 08 Screw crossed the 2k mark. Thought - time for an oil change as the last one was at 500 miles performed by dealer. No problem I thought! Done oil changes hundreds of times on all my cars.....
WRONG!
Draining the oil was easy enough, but then came the removal of the filter!
SOB oil change monkey had the filter on so tight it took over 2 hrs to get out.
A variety of filter wrenches, chisels, screwdrivers etc. were used. Though at one time about duck taping the holes over and drive to the Jiffy Lube - stupid me.... just a passing thought.
I even ended up breaking two filter wrenches (one the jaw type which bent, send the compress with the swivel handle) but got the damn thing off! Must have 30 - 40 small cuts on my right hand alone.
so - remember when placing your new filter on you really don't have to greater than hand tight and most importantly - oil the rubber seal!
Lesson Learned - I will never go the dealer and take a chance of having the same grease monkey put another filter on my truck
So I have to ask the question being is there an easier way to get the filter out on the 5.4L?
WRONG!
Draining the oil was easy enough, but then came the removal of the filter!
SOB oil change monkey had the filter on so tight it took over 2 hrs to get out.
A variety of filter wrenches, chisels, screwdrivers etc. were used. Though at one time about duck taping the holes over and drive to the Jiffy Lube - stupid me.... just a passing thought.
I even ended up breaking two filter wrenches (one the jaw type which bent, send the compress with the swivel handle) but got the damn thing off! Must have 30 - 40 small cuts on my right hand alone.
so - remember when placing your new filter on you really don't have to greater than hand tight and most importantly - oil the rubber seal!
Lesson Learned - I will never go the dealer and take a chance of having the same grease monkey put another filter on my truck
So I have to ask the question being is there an easier way to get the filter out on the 5.4L?
Don't know anything about these new models, but before when I changed my oil for the first time; I had to take a screw driver, break the filter and twist it wit the screw driver...
I only hand tighten from then on.... and since never had any problems! Also remember to oil the O ring
I only hand tighten from then on.... and since never had any problems! Also remember to oil the O ring
the screwdriver trick has always worked for me when its stubborn to get off. those rubber strap type wrenches work well also.i use those when i to put on shower tub spouts at work.
Last edited by keith97xlt; Mar 1, 2009 at 10:19 AM.
The factory filters are spun on and really tight. Why did they change your oil at 500 miles? Supplies for oil change here cost about $26.50. Dealer charges $29.95. Plus they inspect other things. Don't think its worth $3.50 to change it myself unless I can't make time for their appointment. Also every time they change oil or do service they enter it into their system. Thus no need to hunt receipts if you have a problem with the drivetrain.
I have encounter the same problem. I changed mine @ 500 myself and had the same issue with the filter much over hand tight. With the filter being up in a hard to get to spot, hard to get any type filter wrench in there and have room to use the thing,sharp edges everwhere. I was like you, I had totally destroyed the filter and it was still on. I found my other filter wrench that you use a ratchet on and got the thing off. Still had problems.
I just jacked my trk . up and put it on jack stands. Would have be allot eazier on a lift. Thought about taking that tray off they have put on to catch the oil.
I just jacked my trk . up and put it on jack stands. Would have be allot eazier on a lift. Thought about taking that tray off they have put on to catch the oil.
Even the factory robot tightened filters aren't that hard to take off if you have the right wrench setup. Buy yourselves a 3 jaw filter wrench, something like this: http://www.kd-tools.com/3288.htm You want one with fairly long jaws after the 90 degree bends or it won't work as well. Add a swivel to the filter wrench so you have a straight shot at the end of the filter. (I like an impact swivel that gives you the angle you need but doesn't flop all over) Then use a long enough extension to get your ratchet or breaker bar out in the open and twist it off. Always worked like a charm for me.
Every first oil change is a pain. The engine plants don't lube the filters when they install them. I think the hardest is the 95 4 cyl Contour. Can't get to it, and it is TIGHT!!!
Trending Topics
I had a local quick change outfit did just that on a burb I used to own.. I had to rip the oilfilter down to the base and use a large pair of needle nose pliers to get the thing off!!
That's the last time I have anyone or anyplace change my oil!!! Ever as long as I can drive and do it myself..Thats what I'm going to do..
That's the last time I have anyone or anyplace change my oil!!! Ever as long as I can drive and do it myself..Thats what I'm going to do..
I'd guess the dealer changed the oil but not the filter during the 500 miles service.
How was the filter labeled? IIUC the factory filters are unmarked.
How was the filter labeled? IIUC the factory filters are unmarked.
Last edited by Dennis Nicholls; Mar 1, 2009 at 02:13 PM.
Plain Jane White! Only a small square of black 1/4' x 1/4" was only marking... must be for robot alignment....
Are you sure you were turning it in the proper direction?
Yeah, cuz the techs at the dealerships don't know anything, they just do that kind of stuff 100 times a day....
I always let the dealership work on my while it was under warranty. If anything were to happen, they'd have all the records that show they were the only ones who worked on it.
- NCSU

I always let the dealership work on my while it was under warranty. If anything were to happen, they'd have all the records that show they were the only ones who worked on it.
- NCSU
The plain white filter with a 1/4"X1/4" black square is the original factory filter.




