I got the regulator here just make sure you have the snap ring style and not the allen key style because this one was held in with a snap ring. You also have PM

 

Thanks Jbrew, Looks like they did change them up for '00 like Gotts says mine is also held in place with a large snap ring.

I sent you a PM Gotts. Thanks!

 

I received the regulator from Gotts2BMe and will install it this weekend and hopefully it will solve the not holding pressure issue.

I've used the truck to go to work and back this week and so far no CEL has come up. The only thing that comes up once in a while it wants to surge at Idle in and out of gear. I'm not sure what that's about, but I have some time to spend on it this weekend so I hope to figure it out.

If anybody has any ideas on the surging. I am always open to input. It has a brand new FoMoCo IAC and I tried swapping it back to the other one that was on it and it made no difference.

 

I don't want to hijack the thread, but one quick question.

In jbrews flowchart, it said to check the "cold start valve". That to me sounds like some that would go into the intake manifold? I thought the only way fuel gets into the engine is via the 8 injectors. Maybe my 2001 5.4l does not have it. BTW, interested in this thread because my truck cranks more than usual before firing when I start it in the morning. I figure I'm losing fuel pressure over night. What is a cold start valve?

 

I'm not sure what they mean by a "cold start valve", they only thing I can think of is the Idle Air Control Valve or the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Valve which is used on start up and while cruising. You can get a mechanical gauge and hose fairly cheap if you want to check your fuel pressure. If you just turn your key to the on position and leave it there until the fuel pump stops and then crank it, does it start up sooner?

I just went back and read Jbrew's flow chart. I believe the flow chart covers more than one system type. In our case there is no "cold start valve" we rely solely on the injectors for fuel supply.

 

Iac is a cold start valve - It handles idle when cold - at temp , the O2's take over.

 

So is it possible that I'm surging at idle due to my O2's getting fouled when it was running rich?

 

I doubt it - If so, replacing the 02's would only be a temp fix. The root problem is the FMU - Somethings not right along those lines IMO.

I would be on the phone to the manufacturer - have a feeling somethings being missed.

 

I see what your saying, I will have to focus on getting that last piece of the puzzle lined up to remove the FMU. I only need the programmer and custom tunes. I know there is a lead time on the tunes, but I gotta have the cash first.

I really don't like the FMU set-up, I haven't stomped on it a whole lot since the fuel gauge, but the fuel pressure can very by a lot @ full boost which to me means it's not a very reliable piece of technology

 

I also got a set of used o2's that are still in useable condition if you are interested in them as well. I just replaced them when I put my long tubes on as preventative maintenance.

 

I still have my old ones before I put in my OBX's as well. I think I'll pull them and give them a hit with sensor-kleen while I'm under there taking care of the 1-2 accumulator springs swap.

I'm looking forward to today, I plan on taking care of 5 or 6 small projects that I've been wanting to finish up but it's been a little crappy outside.

I gotta: Install a tranny drain plug and swap out the springs, cover up some holes that were drilled in the door jam for the door poppers that were put in the wrong place (by a good friend), rear rotors and pads, and a switch for my Aux gauges. I might even try to get the wide-band in, but I need the bung welded in to do that.

 

We'll I got a few things done yesterday. I installed the regulator Gotts sent and it now holds 38psi after 5 mins. The only thing I still don't like is the fact that I saw the gauge hit 80psi @ 10psi Boost.

I also tackled a couple of other little thins yesterday which just make it more drivable. I replaced the 1-2 accumulator springs and laughed when I pulled out what was in there. My tranny builders "Custom" kit had springs and WASHERS, and just a regular smaller spring put inside the lower spring that was a cut, it was pull type spring not a compression spring.

Whatever, at least it shifts as it should now, even @ WOT. I haven't had any codes come up yet too, which is great. I'll have to wait and watch to make sure it is all good. I have a 9hr trip through the mountains coming up, so I don't want to have any issues.

 

80psi???? your return has to be restricted!

 

It sure is....By a friggen FMU

I checked a little bit on the web and it's not unheard of. But it just can't be good for anything to be that high. I gotta get the wide-band in and find out what my AFR is @ WOT. I still have yet to get your 42lber's in, but I hope to pretty soon.