First off, I'm new here, I'm an avid ford fan and just bought my 2004 screw 5.4 a little over a month ago. Got a sweet deal due to some motor noise that kept everyone else away. At first, I didn't want it, but after some research and inspection I discovered the cam phaser issue. I ended up snagging the truck for 10k. It may be more subtle than the experiences I've heard of here, but still unmistakable VCT phasers.

That being said, I am an educated and experienced motorcycle, small engine, deisel, heavy-equipment and H.D. truck technician. I am very familiar with SOHC and DOHC motors, I am aware of the precautions required when dealing with any strict-tolerance motor or mechanical device. I will be performing my own VCT phaser replacement in the next coming weeks however, I have a few questions for any tech, or backyard wrench who has either replaced the phasers, or removed their camshafts.

1. I have removed multiple ohc's with high valve spring strengths without special valve spring compressors, or special tool of any type by removing cam bearing cap bolts 1/4 turn or less at a time... would this apply to our 24v engines as well, or should I front the cash for the tool? Anybody have used ones?

2. Are the cam bearing caps single units or are they linked? (multiple caps
2-3 connected together in one assembly?)

3. Are there any VCT solonoid/actuator oil ports that should be cleaned in the process and where are they located?

The cam chain wedge is not a problem thanks to some abs plastic, .25 in metal rod and a little 1/2 thick conveyer belt wiper found at the shop.

Anyone is welcome to input their yay's, nay's, tips, tricks, and advice. Although the later two would be most helpful. Look for upcoming pics and procedures so you might think about doing your own.

Thanks to everyone on these forums for your help already,
J.D.

 

The way Ford wants you to do it is to remove the camshaft prior to phaser replacement. I just rotate the cam to get the forward (either 1 or 5 cylinder) rockers on top dead center. Then I bust the phaser bolt loose, take two large pairs of needle nose vise grips and position them between the cam lobes on either side as to hold the camshaft from spinning (wedge them between the intake, and the fenderwell somewhere). Install the wedge, mark the chain to the phaser (at top dead center, there will be a mark on the phaser. I mark the chain on each side of this mark). Remove and replace phaser. The phaser is keyed to the cam. The passenger side takes me a little more than an hour to do, and the drivers side takes less than 40 minutes. Hardest part is getting the valve cover off the pass side due to AC lines, which I bend out of the way. The oil passage is under the forward most cam cap which are individual. Careful, the forward one also has the "thrust" built into the cap.

 

Thanks very much bigbronc, I have heard of dealers replacing all the lash adjusters while they are doing this repair- Is this something you have done or normally do without lash adjuster noise? Not a bad idea while its apart, but if it ain't broke don't fix it huh?

 

FYI The cam phaser noise is just that, a noise. It is not a durability concern. Reason I am saying this is that if you don't mind the noise it will not affect the longevity of the engine. As far as lash adjusters go. They are designed to last the life of the engine which in my experience can exceed 300,000 miles. (With good maintenance). If you have a noise concern that you think is a lash adjuster then you can check for the defective one while the cam covers are off and replace it then. Good directions from Bigbronc.Good luck.

 

hey DYNOTECH what exactly is it thats causing the noise?

 

Matt there is a coiled flat spring with a pin that anchors it inside. If the clearance between the two is off just a bit then it generates a noise. The old spec was changed for the new part only to fix the noise condition. At least that is what was explained to us. In all our testing we never had a failure and I have no doubt there are a lot of them in the field that make the noise and will never fail. Nobody wants a noise myself included but this is not a durability issue. Personally if I had a vehicle under warranty I would get it fixed otherwise I'd live with it. Just my take on it. More of an annoyance then anything. Take care

 

alright thanks dynotech

 

I have probably replaced a dozen or more phasers and have yet to replace a lash adjuster. Actually there is a locking pin inside the phaser assy that goes bad and causes the noise. At least that is what the Ford engineers told me. Take one apart, and you can see the pin is worn. The noise is from the pin trying to engage when it can't. This pin is "hydraulically locked" at idle and below 2000 rpm. Hope this helps yall.