Any suggestions on the best hoising points for installing a 4.6L into a 1997 4X4?

Here's my situation:

1. Radiator is out
2. All lines are out of the way
3. Passenger side motor mount cradle is unbolted from frame (driver's side cradle mount still on frame)
4. Intake manifold is off
5. Have leveler and cherry picker
6. Front tires are off and front end lowered for engine clearance
7. Power steering pump is installed
8. A/C compressor is wired to side of frame and off the engine (out of the way)

I tried in vain to install the motor today and had to call it quits and pull the motor back out

Getting the mount inside the cradle on the driver's side is a PITA (I'm calling the part of the motor mount that attaches to the frame the "cradle". Not the piece that bolts to the engine).

Since the engine sits so far aft, the hoisting chains want to grab/bend my sheet metal cowling when I need to lower and move the engine toward the rear

When I finally got the engine under the cowling it was at a slight angle (side to side) which kept me from aligning the motor mount on the driver's side.

OK - the million dollar question - What chain configuration and attach holes do you guys recommend (i.e 2, 3 or 4 point chain, alternator or intake holes for hoisting points, etc)?

Thanks in advance.

 

when we did my friends chevy we used a hoist like this, that had the balancer rod setup on it, really helps to get the engine down in the rear and clear under the cowl support

 

When I did mine i unbolted the mount from the block and left the mount attached to the frame on both sides, for mounting points for the hoist I used the bolts where the intake manifold bolts to the heads near cylinders 1 and 8. To get the holes lined up for the mounts we just played with the hoist and pry bars to get the bolts started then tightened them down.

 

Is yours a 4x4? My driver's side mounting bolts (from the bottom) are blocked by the front differential.

 

yes its a 4x4. i did them from underneith and from inside the engine bay

 

The adapter we have at the dealership bolts into the valley between the heads with the intake off. Mount the chain to the alternator bolts and the inside of the top two bellhousing bolt holes(these are threaded all the way through). Use short bolts here at the bellhousing.

 

There is a bolt that holds the two motor mount halves together. That is where you separate them. Jack the transmission up so it sits closer to the transmission tunnel. With the transmission sitting higher you can slide the engine over the mounts. I use as short a chain as possible bolted to the heads at opposite corners and hook the picker closer to the front of the engine just past the center mark.

 

Thanks for all your help. This @#$%ing thing is starting to **** me off....

The two halves of the driver side motor mount have bolts, but no nuts underneath. Once I disconnect them how in the heck would I get it back together (since the rubber mount will be blocking access to the bolt heads)?

 

the bolts however bent due to lifting it like this, but I was comfortable with it.

Dropping the 5.4 in though was easy.
The very top two bellhousing bolts, run a tap through them , ALL THE WAY, then thread the bolts in opposite way so they are threading in towards the firewall, hook you chains to those and use these hole in the front. .

 

Thanks for the pictures.

Got the motor in. Had a few glasses of American Honey (Wild turkey) and that seemed to do the trick.

Had to remove the engine mount pad on the driver's side. Now I have a 1/2" to go. I'm assuming the torque converter bolts are my only remaining obstacle. Then I have to line up the pad bolts and reinstall the dipstick tube....

Will the torque converter spin if the transmission is in neutral? The reason I ask is because my tranny is in neutral and I turned the engine over several times and can't seem to "find" the torque converter bolts.

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

TC will spin in any gear. You do have your spacer plate in place right??? That thing was a pain until I ziptied it to the block

 

Yep the spacer is in place and hasn't been an issue (yet). I have about a 1/2" gap around the entire bellhousing and don't have my torque converter nuts through the flywheel yet, so I'm assuming this is what is accounting for the 1/2" gap. I'll tackle those sob's in the AM.

Thanks for your help

 

I do believe that the torque converter has studs sticking out that mate up to the holes in the flexplate. When you turn the flexplate you may also be turning the torque converter because these studs are pushing against the flexplate. Try turning the torque converter instead so the studs line up.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier