Spark Plug Removal & Lisle Tool Tips
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Spark Plug Removal & Lisle Tool Tips
First off thanks for all you guys sharing the info on plug removals. I figured I would share my experiences as well.
2004 F150 5.4L 3 Valve 80K miles. Followed the TSB and broke 5 of the eight plugs. I ordered the Lisle tool from Amazon (etooldirect).
When following the TSB, I think it is very important after you break the plug loose 1/8 to 1/4 turn to let it sit then actually work it back the other direction tightening it. Worth doing this several times in the removal step to get the penetrant down to the carbon buildup.
I found it very useful to use a wet/dry shop vac with a polypropylene hose on it for aid in the plug removal. (I actually used two different hose sizes to make work and coupled them with elctrical tape). I soaked all the plugs with a hefty amount of Carb Cleaner & PB Blaster before removal. The ones that didn't break, all that fluid went down in the combustion chamber. I used the shop vac with the hose to vacuum all the fluid out (prevent hydro lock). The end hose was small enough to fit through the spark plug hole.
I waited several days for the Lisle tool to come in. While I waited I used 8.5" long needle nose plyers to pull out the broken electrode in the 3 plugs that still had the electrode broke off in them. On one of the plugs I had to cut away the plastic grip on the plyers to get far enough down in the chamber to reach the electrode.
Lisle tool came in. Worked great on 4 of the broken plugs. Once again I used the shop vac to vacuum out broken porcelain pieces once pushing the porcelain down with the lisle.
For the Lisle tool to work correctly or any other threading tool the porcelain has to be far enogh down for the tool to work correctly. (The lisle says it needs to be broken at least flush with the top of the ground electrode. On the second from the back passenger side (only visible with a mirror) I thought the Lisle tool had pushed the porcelain down all the way. It actually did, but on the edge of the plug there was a nugget sticking up that I did not know or could see. Thus, when I used the Lisle extractor the threads would not bite far enough down. After I re-tryed about 3 times I basically opened the top of the plug up such that the Lisle would no longer grip. Thats when I realized what had happened. The nugget was holding the threading tool up to high. I used a flat head screwdriver to try and break the nugget off as well as a chisel with a hammer. After that I vacuumed and tryed the Lisle again without success. I then left the Lisel in and beat on it with a hammer, but still no success.
I was really frustrated at this point as I had gotten all but one plug out. I went to Lowe's today on a mission. I figured I had two shots. One tap the plug and use a 3/8" all thread similair to the Rotunda (also simlair to other posts), or buy a long masonry bit and drill out the porcelain and drive all tread through the bottom to get it out.
While at Lowe's I had an old plug with me and I noticed that 5/16" all thread fit in the plug nicely and gripped. But I had read previously on other posts about using 3/8". Thus, I bought both with required nuts and also a 3/8" tap. Once back at home I tried the 5/16" all thread with no luck. I then tried to grip the 3/8" all thread without tapping, and this did not work either.
Thus, I tapped the plug with the 3/8" tap, vaccumed and then used the 3/8" all thread. It worked!! I got enough threads to grip ahold of the plug and extract like the Rotunda. Once I knew it had grabbed I doused the top of the plug with PB blaster so that it could drain down as I extracted. I used the Lisle spacer and a fender washer as well to make work. I was very worried that this one plug was going to make me pull the head, but with alot of praying I made due.
Note: I unplugged the plug on the PCM closest to the driver's side and removed the PCM from the bracket & removed the bracket to provide better access. (left the other two plugs plugged in).
I re-installed the new plugs per the TSB with nickel anti-seize and filled the coils with dielectric grease. Runs like a new truck now and also I got rid of the misfire at WOT
2004 F150 5.4L 3 Valve 80K miles. Followed the TSB and broke 5 of the eight plugs. I ordered the Lisle tool from Amazon (etooldirect).
When following the TSB, I think it is very important after you break the plug loose 1/8 to 1/4 turn to let it sit then actually work it back the other direction tightening it. Worth doing this several times in the removal step to get the penetrant down to the carbon buildup.
I found it very useful to use a wet/dry shop vac with a polypropylene hose on it for aid in the plug removal. (I actually used two different hose sizes to make work and coupled them with elctrical tape). I soaked all the plugs with a hefty amount of Carb Cleaner & PB Blaster before removal. The ones that didn't break, all that fluid went down in the combustion chamber. I used the shop vac with the hose to vacuum all the fluid out (prevent hydro lock). The end hose was small enough to fit through the spark plug hole.
I waited several days for the Lisle tool to come in. While I waited I used 8.5" long needle nose plyers to pull out the broken electrode in the 3 plugs that still had the electrode broke off in them. On one of the plugs I had to cut away the plastic grip on the plyers to get far enough down in the chamber to reach the electrode.
Lisle tool came in. Worked great on 4 of the broken plugs. Once again I used the shop vac to vacuum out broken porcelain pieces once pushing the porcelain down with the lisle.
For the Lisle tool to work correctly or any other threading tool the porcelain has to be far enogh down for the tool to work correctly. (The lisle says it needs to be broken at least flush with the top of the ground electrode. On the second from the back passenger side (only visible with a mirror) I thought the Lisle tool had pushed the porcelain down all the way. It actually did, but on the edge of the plug there was a nugget sticking up that I did not know or could see. Thus, when I used the Lisle extractor the threads would not bite far enough down. After I re-tryed about 3 times I basically opened the top of the plug up such that the Lisle would no longer grip. Thats when I realized what had happened. The nugget was holding the threading tool up to high. I used a flat head screwdriver to try and break the nugget off as well as a chisel with a hammer. After that I vacuumed and tryed the Lisle again without success. I then left the Lisel in and beat on it with a hammer, but still no success.
I was really frustrated at this point as I had gotten all but one plug out. I went to Lowe's today on a mission. I figured I had two shots. One tap the plug and use a 3/8" all thread similair to the Rotunda (also simlair to other posts), or buy a long masonry bit and drill out the porcelain and drive all tread through the bottom to get it out.
While at Lowe's I had an old plug with me and I noticed that 5/16" all thread fit in the plug nicely and gripped. But I had read previously on other posts about using 3/8". Thus, I bought both with required nuts and also a 3/8" tap. Once back at home I tried the 5/16" all thread with no luck. I then tried to grip the 3/8" all thread without tapping, and this did not work either.
Thus, I tapped the plug with the 3/8" tap, vaccumed and then used the 3/8" all thread. It worked!! I got enough threads to grip ahold of the plug and extract like the Rotunda. Once I knew it had grabbed I doused the top of the plug with PB blaster so that it could drain down as I extracted. I used the Lisle spacer and a fender washer as well to make work. I was very worried that this one plug was going to make me pull the head, but with alot of praying I made due.
Note: I unplugged the plug on the PCM closest to the driver's side and removed the PCM from the bracket & removed the bracket to provide better access. (left the other two plugs plugged in).
I re-installed the new plugs per the TSB with nickel anti-seize and filled the coils with dielectric grease. Runs like a new truck now and also I got rid of the misfire at WOT
