My point to this thread is to find out if anyone knows where the vulnerable
area('s) on the starter and/or solenoid are for water getting in.
Went out this morning to start my truck, click click, click etc etc.
Didn't panic, grabbed my meter, newer battery suprisingly had 12.5 volts still. Surprising because it got down to 3 degree's with probably a -10 or worse windchill last night.
Anyways, ran through and checked the obvious, starter relay, fuses and relay's all good.
Next obvious check is the starter (only 8 months old). As I was looking up at it, I could see that there was a dried up or frozen rust trail coming out of the drain hole in the solenoid. Grabbed the wife's hair dryer and warmed it up for 5
minutes and then it started right up, no hesitation. Has anyone torn down a starter or seperated the solenoid from the starter and inspected the sealant or gasket ('s) they use during assembly. I have no worries as far as getting this starter replaced, life time warranty and I already called, they have a new one (not rebuild) waiting on the shelf for me.
I had to tear one apart over 10-15 years ago and clean everything up to get one to work (no money at the time, 4 hungry children at home) but I havn't had to tear one apart since then.
Replace them since then yes.
I know old age and dirt has seized them up on me before. I have never had one freeze up on me because of water or moisture,
I would like to know if anyone has any knowledge of the vulnerable spots so I can try to seal or protect the new one a little better.
Not fun crawling under the truck when it's 10 degree's out.
Love my thermal Carhart bib's and Skidoo Jacket.

Your help and info is greatly appreciated.
Oh Ye, I was told I can't tear this one apart or my warranty gets voided.
Understandable.
I don't want a $150.00 DIYer training lesson, otherwise I would.

Thanks,
TJKinCNY

 

This came with my New Starter -

TB-FordPMGR

ATTENTION!!!

Ford, Lincold, Mercury and Mazda owners.

To reduce the risk of premature starter failure, these steps must be followed.

Damn! Hang on , spilled my coffee on it

 

Your kidding right, spilled your coffe on it. What's up with that. You were so close to giving me the info I needed.

 

Crap ! I got most of the coffee off, - I think that's undercoating I got on there earlier

You can read it - To many ink blots for me - I'm seeing things

 

Hey Brew,
Thanks for trying to get that info to me. Any chance you can read through it and give me any info that will be important for me to know.
I just checked the temp outside and it is 1 degree (@8:30 pm) and the truck wouldn't start, again. I am going to do the hairdryer trick again in the morn to get it started and get it over to my brother-inlaws house so I have a garage to work in.
When I get my new starter, hopefully that info will be in the box.
I am not sure if it will be because you used a Bosch starter, right?
I forgot what brand I bought.
Let me know,
Thanks

 

brew you're funny with your randomness

 

From what I can read it appears this warning details the proper sealing of the wires to prevent corrosion. It details how to melt the protective insulator cover to the wires to prevent water intrusion. It doesn't mention anything about elements getting inside the solenoid.

 

That looks about right Foe. From what I can make of it, I am getting the same info. Thinking back to 04/08 when my starter went in, I did have that paperwork in mine. I will see today when I pick up my new one. Cool thing is I am upgrading to another starter for $15.00 more so I get a new lifetime warranty on the new one. Apparently, lifetime warranty @ Advance is one time trade in but the Manager Rich takes care of me and let me in on that little loop-hole. Thanks for your input.

TJKinCNY

 

Just a thought here but my 2000 has 150k on the OEM starter. I looked up AutoZone online and they have different part numbers for the 1998 and the 2000 starters. Have you thought of using a 2000 model year starter?

 

i have the original started on mine. almost 13 years old going on 168K miles on it

 

Huh, I wonder what the difference is? Flywheel or electrical?

My stock 98 starter lasted 185,000 miles, It would most likely still be on the truck if I never tried to clean the terminals

It was very corroded when I tried to remove the first one. I had to chip away the corrosion to the nuts. Then they broke trying to remove. That was a few years ago.

In the last two weeks, I've busted 11 bolts and stripped out my oil pan plug..I quit using drill bits to drill out the busted bolts, takes way to long.. Carbide material removing bits (burrs), zip right thru hardened steel. Wish I new that before going thru the drill/sharpen thing 100 times over.

 

What randomness ? Hey did you find out what's making that noise yet?

 

Right!! But I wouldn't crimp fit any wire on the starting system. Specially not down there in the elements.. That's crazy and it won't last. Weather proof seal ? That cracks me up.

You better Rosin Core it if you want it to last. - But they won't tell you that because it's a potential hazard, you COULD burn yourself and sue them. Chances of burning yourself on a heat shrink is allot less.

 

New starter is in and it definately looks better built. It's a Beck/Arnley, new not reman. Looking at the old starter, it looked like the seal (or lack there of) connecting the solenoid to the starter housing was getting moister/water in it pretty bad. Also noticed on the new Beck starter, where I thought was a breather or drain hole on the old starter, the Beck had a rubber stem coming out of the same opening. Guessing the other starter I pulled out should of had the same rubber stem, just guessing of course. Anyways, old one came right out thanks to the anti-seize I used on the 3 bolt's, (threads) last April and the new one went right in. From the time I lifted the truck, pulled the passanger tire, pulled the old, cleaned everything up, installed the new, to driving, 2 1/2 hrs.
By the way Brew, like your starter setup, my old starter and this new one had the same hot-wire extension so you can crimp and heat shrink the connection. I used the one from the old starter (new in April), because I soldered that connection then used my own heat shrink, then taped it up after that.
Also Brew, I had the same problem as you with the factory OEM starter. It was still working @ 142k but I had to replace the wiring harness's because they were corroded up so bad and in doing that, I tried cleaning up the starter and the terminals and it was too corroded to make me happy about putting it back on the truck.

To anyone who hasn't done a starter replacement on the 5.4L
THE KEY to an easy starter replacement, PULL the passanger side tire and you can remove 2 bolts real quick. The top bolt and the side bolt facing you.

 

Never thought of it JMC, I didn't know that I could.
I Like the design and build of the new Beck/Arnley starter I just bought tho. Best thing is, because I upgraded to this starter for an extra $15.00, I recieved a new lifetime warranty.
As always, thanks for your input Jean Marc.